TWM Performance Short Shifter Install (xA/xB)
#1
TWM Performance Short Shifter Install (xA/xB)
I finally received my TWM Performance Short Shifter. This tutorial should be good for xA, xB, and Echo owners. The kit came with an installation manual, but some procedures are easier said than done. I hope my install walk-through helps those interested in purchasing/installing this kit. And yes, my car is dirty.
Out of the Box
The kit includes the short shifter, an "ideal" install manual, 2 clips (just need one), a cup remover tool, and 2 TWM Performance decals.
Other tools you'll need:
Philips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Hammer/Mallet
Socket Wrench with 12mm, 14mm, and maybe an extension
Pliers
WD40 (or another automotive lubricant...lithium grease)
Dremel (Godsend.)
And now, the install!
Taking the Center Console Out
1. Take your shift **** off by unscrewing it (counter-clockwise).
2. Pop out the little panel from under the hand brake. Also, make sure it is engaged.
3. In the rear cupholder, take the rear felt off and unscrew the bolt.
4. Grab hold under the front of the console and pull up. Once the pegs pop out, carefully take the center console out. If you have cupholder LEDs, please watch for the wiring. You may have to work around it.
Taking Out the Assembly
NOTE: The TWM Installation Manual does not tell you to take the assembly out, but it would be a pain in the butt to work with it in the car.
1. Start by disconnecting the plug. Wiggle it, just a little bit. Then, pull the cable clip out from the shifter assembly.
2. Next, take out the cotter pin from the left shift cable. Then, unlink the cable. Make sure to keep the cotter pin, along with the other parts, in a safe place.
3. Take your 12mm socket and unbolt the four bolts holding the assembly in place.
4. Unclamp these shift cable guides.
5. Put the assembly on its' side, bottom facing the driver side. You will see a little clamp. Spread the clip and take the shift rod out of the clamp.
Yay, the shifter assembly is out!
Swapping Out the Shifters
1. Take this "C" clip off the assembly.
TWM's manual says to use a flathead screwdriver and pry off the clip from the side of the assembly. You will notice after a few minutes of trying and cursing that it will not budge. I broke a razorblade trying to wedge it between the clip and assembly.
After a couple of minutes, I whipped out my Dremel.
2. Once the clip is off, use a hammer (in my case, a screwdriver handle) and hammer out the pin. Use a punch (in my case, another screwdriver) to drive the pin out completely.
3. This is another irritating part. The retainer ring holding the shifter in place was hard. Spray lubricant on it and start working the ring with a flathead screwdriver.
After cursing it to hell, it popped off.
Here is a comparison of the TWM shifter and the stock shifter
4. Next, it is time to pop this cup off the stock shifter.
Using the cup remover tool included with the kit...
...put it under your feet, preferably with shoes on. Make sure the cup is centered. A strong pull upwards should have enough force to remove the cup from the stock shifter.
5. Lubricate the pivot ball on the TWM shifter, put the cup on a hard/stable surface and push the shifter into it until it pops in.
6. Once the cup is on the TWM shifter, reassemble the shifter assembly. You may want to lube the big pivot ball. Put the retainer ring back on. Then, put the spring assembly back on with the pin.
7. When putting the new clip on the pin, use a 14mm socket to drive the clip onto the pin. I used an extension on the socket to make it easier. When you think you have the clip on all the way, drive the pin from the other side to make sure there is no play, and then drive the clip again. Once that is done, you can reinstall it back into the car.
Final Product
At neutral...
The throw is shortened, and so is the shift rod. The shifts are much more direct and a little bit notchier compared to the stock setup. Also, I have specially-made poly urethane shifter link bushings, so the notchiness may be amplified on my part.
If there are any questions, please PM or email me.
Out of the Box
The kit includes the short shifter, an "ideal" install manual, 2 clips (just need one), a cup remover tool, and 2 TWM Performance decals.
Other tools you'll need:
Philips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Hammer/Mallet
Socket Wrench with 12mm, 14mm, and maybe an extension
Pliers
WD40 (or another automotive lubricant...lithium grease)
Dremel (Godsend.)
And now, the install!
Taking the Center Console Out
1. Take your shift **** off by unscrewing it (counter-clockwise).
2. Pop out the little panel from under the hand brake. Also, make sure it is engaged.
3. In the rear cupholder, take the rear felt off and unscrew the bolt.
4. Grab hold under the front of the console and pull up. Once the pegs pop out, carefully take the center console out. If you have cupholder LEDs, please watch for the wiring. You may have to work around it.
Taking Out the Assembly
NOTE: The TWM Installation Manual does not tell you to take the assembly out, but it would be a pain in the butt to work with it in the car.
1. Start by disconnecting the plug. Wiggle it, just a little bit. Then, pull the cable clip out from the shifter assembly.
2. Next, take out the cotter pin from the left shift cable. Then, unlink the cable. Make sure to keep the cotter pin, along with the other parts, in a safe place.
3. Take your 12mm socket and unbolt the four bolts holding the assembly in place.
4. Unclamp these shift cable guides.
5. Put the assembly on its' side, bottom facing the driver side. You will see a little clamp. Spread the clip and take the shift rod out of the clamp.
Yay, the shifter assembly is out!
Swapping Out the Shifters
1. Take this "C" clip off the assembly.
TWM's manual says to use a flathead screwdriver and pry off the clip from the side of the assembly. You will notice after a few minutes of trying and cursing that it will not budge. I broke a razorblade trying to wedge it between the clip and assembly.
After a couple of minutes, I whipped out my Dremel.
2. Once the clip is off, use a hammer (in my case, a screwdriver handle) and hammer out the pin. Use a punch (in my case, another screwdriver) to drive the pin out completely.
3. This is another irritating part. The retainer ring holding the shifter in place was hard. Spray lubricant on it and start working the ring with a flathead screwdriver.
After cursing it to hell, it popped off.
Here is a comparison of the TWM shifter and the stock shifter
4. Next, it is time to pop this cup off the stock shifter.
Using the cup remover tool included with the kit...
...put it under your feet, preferably with shoes on. Make sure the cup is centered. A strong pull upwards should have enough force to remove the cup from the stock shifter.
5. Lubricate the pivot ball on the TWM shifter, put the cup on a hard/stable surface and push the shifter into it until it pops in.
6. Once the cup is on the TWM shifter, reassemble the shifter assembly. You may want to lube the big pivot ball. Put the retainer ring back on. Then, put the spring assembly back on with the pin.
7. When putting the new clip on the pin, use a 14mm socket to drive the clip onto the pin. I used an extension on the socket to make it easier. When you think you have the clip on all the way, drive the pin from the other side to make sure there is no play, and then drive the clip again. Once that is done, you can reinstall it back into the car.
Final Product
At neutral...
The throw is shortened, and so is the shift rod. The shifts are much more direct and a little bit notchier compared to the stock setup. Also, I have specially-made poly urethane shifter link bushings, so the notchiness may be amplified on my part.
If there are any questions, please PM or email me.
#3
Originally Posted by djct_watt
YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!! Is the 1-2 shift any better, or does it still grind if you shift hard?
#7
Originally Posted by XBman
excelent .... where did u get it?
Sparks Toyota seems to have it a few quarters cheaper, with free shipping. ...ptuning.com gave me a nice fridge magnet, though... Also, TWM recently made a short shifter/shift **** combo, so you might want to check out www.twmperformance.com.
#8
right on mikochu. i agree with you re: removing of the clip & retaining clip was a pain for me the pictures always makes it look soo easy. :?
i see in your pics that you removed the whole housing, i kept my in place. maybe depending on the leverage & angle it may work diff for others.
in any case, i have had my twm for about a month & i like how it responds to me & shifting. i did change my obx **** (med.lenght cylinder type :? ) to a round **** & that has made my shifting to using only my wrist. much quicker shifting :D
also if you have a great gap btwn yur boot & ****, i have solved that by just fliping that plastic chrome upside down. (remove retaining clip) that will fill that gap.
have a great shifting :D
i see in your pics that you removed the whole housing, i kept my in place. maybe depending on the leverage & angle it may work diff for others.
in any case, i have had my twm for about a month & i like how it responds to me & shifting. i did change my obx **** (med.lenght cylinder type :? ) to a round **** & that has made my shifting to using only my wrist. much quicker shifting :D
also if you have a great gap btwn yur boot & ****, i have solved that by just fliping that plastic chrome upside down. (remove retaining clip) that will fill that gap.
have a great shifting :D
#10
Originally Posted by OrAnGeBoX
how long did it take for you to get the twm because i ordered mine like 2 weeks ago and im still waiting
#12
Originally Posted by OrAnGeBoX
how long did it take for you to get the twm because i ordered mine like 2 weeks ago and im still waiting
Originally Posted by doctorcue
Mods... to the Tech section with this!
#14
Originally Posted by OrAnGeBoX
They gave me a tracking # and it says its in transit (what does theat meen its been in transit for like 7 days)
Also, any posts that are not relevent to the DIY will be edited/deleted in a week or so. Just wanted to let you folks know.
#17
hey quick question.... i'm a tC owner and was wondering if the other scions have the same wobbly shifter the tC comes with stock? i used to have an IS which had a nice snap back feel to the shifter whenever it went back to the middle... the tC has more of teh honda prelude "vague" -ness to it.
if the other scions do have that wobbly-ness, did the TWM short shifter fix that?
if the other scions do have that wobbly-ness, did the TWM short shifter fix that?
#19
Originally Posted by 2JZ
hey quick question.... i'm a tC owner and was wondering if the other scions have the same wobbly shifter the tC comes with stock? i used to have an IS which had a nice snap back feel to the shifter whenever it went back to the middle... the tC has more of teh honda prelude "vague" -ness to it.
if the other scions do have that wobbly-ness, did the TWM short shifter fix that?
if the other scions do have that wobbly-ness, did the TWM short shifter fix that?
#20
Originally Posted by 2JZ
hey quick question.... i'm a tC owner and was wondering if the other scions have the same wobbly shifter the tC comes with stock? i used to have an IS which had a nice snap back feel to the shifter whenever it went back to the middle... the tC has more of teh honda prelude "vague" -ness to it.
if the other scions do have that wobbly-ness, did the TWM short shifter fix that?
if the other scions do have that wobbly-ness, did the TWM short shifter fix that?