Prototype_xB

TJandBOXCARWILLIE, any advice on how to mount the rear speakers over the grill? I like the way you did yours with the pioneer grill on the outside, very stylish.

Prototype_xB

i ordered a pair of Pioneer Premier TS-A530P 5.25" that at the time was under the impression that they were a direct drop into the doors. Correct?

I also ordered a pair of Pioneer TS-G1040R 4" speakers that i know are a direct drop in the dash.

hotbox05

you could fit 6.5's in the rear behind the grill still a close fit but a lot better looking than through the grill.

Prototype_xB

/\/\ what about 5.25" speakers fitting into the front doors?? Drop in?

hotbox05

no. definately not a drop in. you'd need to make a bracket/adapter out of mdf.

the scosche adapter fits 6.5's. so i just made my own door template out of mdf for my 6.75's

Prototype_xB

*sigh*, well that blows

hotbox05

why would you want 5.25" in the front doors?

tanakasan

Go with 6-1/2s in the doors.

I did an install and photos for eDi 6000 comps for the xB in ICE. Search "edi 6000s". It needed 1-1/2" (2 x 3/4" thk) mdf spacers for the 2.8" mount depth. They fit behind the stock door panels! Depends on depth of the speakers you choose, you might only need one 3/4" spacer. Add/subtract from my dimensions based on your speakers.

As far as dash speakers, I had Vifa tweets in there before the eDis. They are 2-3/4" round magnets x 1-1/2" deep. They just touched the air ducts but fit fine. Theres a fair amount of room there.

FWIW, the factory tweets have a 4-13/16" (4.812) ctc using 3/16" diameter screws. Anything meeting these specs will fit. Maybe more if you squash the air duct some.

Prototype_xB

Because i read this following post:
after reading that assumed this was correct.

hotbox05

front doors are oversized 6.5's aka 6.75's. sooo use 6.5's ot 6.75's

Prototype_xB

/\/\ Ya, i've grasped that thus far

Prototype_xB

Does the 4" pioneer drop in for the dash need bass blockers???

If so, which do i need from the link below??

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-42lEs5b...sp?g=761&avf=N

dick_puncher

you can put 6.5's in the doors (behind the factory grills) if you don't want to keep the factory pioneers... the factory speakers have that spacer built in so you gotta take them out, lay them face down, and smash the magnet with a hammer. after you break the basket cut out the rubber surrounds with a razor and snap out all of the pieces of the basket that are still there. you should be able to screw your new speaker right in to the ring you have left over. i put a rockford fosgate fanaticx 6.5 in with no clearance problems on either side.







i was going to put the tweeter in the dash like the factory setup but decided to do a little butchering (just a little) and try to sneak a four incher in there instead. i cut out the bars in the factory dash speakers and flush mounted a set of rockford fosgate 4's (PCH-44T2)



i know the speaker on top of the grill looks hideous, it's seriously not that "rigged" though... it's cool that there aren't screws holding it in, just snaps in place. i'm planning on upholstering of fiberglassing that panel so that you can't see that it's the factory grill.

IowaXb

i just installed 6 1/2 in. mtx components in my front doors. i used plastic cutting boards ($2.50 apiece) for my spacers. i mounted the tweeters in the doors right in front of the door handles.

ciscokid1970

WHAT TO BUY

FRONT DASH = 4 in speaker with max mount height of 11mm (I used JBL 452) do not cheap out here...your sound is only as good as its worst speaker and dash speakers are closest to your ears.

FRONT DOOR = 6.5 in speaker max height 35mm (I used Pioneer TS-D161R)
Front door speaker mount SCOSCHE sat6

REAR PANELS = 5.25 in Easy fit or 6.5 in Hard fit speaker max height 20mm
rear panel speaker mount SCOSCHE sascn656
** (I used Pioneer TS-D161R) caution the 6.5in speakers were very hard to install. Because of the big magnets and crossover I had to cut the panneling with small hacksaw. It was too late for me to return speakers, but if I had to do it over again I would use a 5.25 in speaker like JBL P552 5.25" external crossover.

Polk Momo series is also very good and fair priced

Do not forget the dynamat...I used a total of 3 door kits...about $80 ea online.
Dynamat rear panels all around the speakers, Dynamat front doors where there is metal, Dynamat rear doors to reduce noise, Dynamat under carpet to reduce noise.

TOOLS AND MATERIAL NEEDED:
- 2 bags of #8 x 1in bolts with nuts (need at least 20 bolts with nuts)
- bag of 3/8in washers (at least 30 make sure they fit the bolts)
- #10 machine screws 3/4in long (to screw the speakers on to the speaker mounts.
- 2 small wall paper rollers, (about 1 in wide)
- solder iron (or crimps) depends on what you like to use.
- black tape
- 3 dynamat door kits
- drill with thin bit
- edge pliers
- big TORX socket to remove seatbelt bolt.
- fastner puller to remove fastners without damaging them (the ones on rear tailgate and liftgate)
- pink insulation to fill the lift gate


PAGES OF MANUAL TO PRINT
FRONT DASH SPEAKERS
67 - 2
67 - 9

FRONT DOOR SPEAKERS
67 – 2, 7, 8
75 – 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

REAR SIDE SPEAKERS
67 – 2, 10
61- 14 15, 16
72 – 8, 9, 10
76 – 13, 14, 15, 16, 17

COLOR CODING FOR WIRES
Front Left Dash and Door speaker: Pink + and Violet –
Front Right Dash and Door speaker: Light Green + and Light Blue –
Rear Left speaker: Black + and Yellow –
Rear Right speaker: Red + and White -


TIPS AND TRICKS
Start on passenger side it is a little easier remove screws and pop out panel with window switch. You can twist it to fit it through the hole after.

On drivers side the window switch is too big so you will have to unfasten the connector on back side of switch panel.

Carefully pull off the clear plastic, do not damage it you want to re use this. DO not remove the metal bracket in middle of door (where the armrest bolts to). I just pulled the plastic up and did the bottom then pulled the top down and did the top.

Place a drop of oil on the rivet and drill with a very thin drill bit. It will just weaken it. You will still need a pair of Dikes (cutting edge pliers) to dig up the rivet and snap it off. Wear protective goggles so when it snaps it does not pop in to your eye. Then shine a light in and vacuum out all the metal stuff you can see. Or else you will have little rattling while you pump your bass.

You should have 3 nice holes of about 4mm each.

Use DYNAMAT, his will help stiffen the surface area you are bolting speaker mount on. I also made a small ring out of some of the dynamat stuff and placed it on the underside of the SCOSCHE sat6 speaker mount to better the seal. Use wall paper roller to apply the dynamat.

Do NOT screw your speaker mount on to the door. Bolt it on, head on the front and nut on the back, that way you can tighten the heck out of it and it will never come loose. One washer under the head and one under the nut. I placed a little bit of the dynamat stuff on the threads of the bolts so they will really never come loose.

Use the #10 machine screws 3/4in long to screw the speaker on to the speaker mount. Big screw will really hold tight, again place a little of the dynamat stuff on the threads to hold tight.

When you place the door panel back on the frame carefully ensure each Plastic anchor goes in to each hole. DO NOT slam it together or you will certainly break one of your anchors and they are NOT easy to find. (you can find Ford, GM and even some Hondas but hard to get Toyota ones.)

Rear speakers are a lot of work, includes removing back seat so while you are there also dynamat the floor of the rear footwells.

There is a thin panel on the rear liftgate I opened that up and filled it with the pink insulation. This helped reduce noise a lot.

dick_puncher

you don't need to remove the rear panels or the seat to get the rear speakers out.
you can pull the panels out far enough to unbolt the fatctory speakers, if you smash the factory speaker and use the spacer built into it for your new speakers (like i mentioned in a previous post) you can just as easily bolt them back in.
i had new speakers in and wired up within 15-20 minutes...

Dwatts5250

Any idea where to get the adapter connector that is soldered on the back of the OEM speaker? ive gt to a couple different shops, no one has them, and no one is willing to take the ones of the OEMs....

scionxbdriver07

so are 6.75 drop in's or would i have to make a bracket

Peter_Rabbit

i got the scoshe adapters for both front and back as recomended.
but the infinity ref 6012i speakers do not seem to work.
the tabs on the speaker areoutside the adapters so there is no place to screw the speaker onto the adapter.
any help?

Kerry

Hi Soulcracker,

Re: What brand and model 6 1/2" speakers?

I wrote to a Crutchfield rep and he recommended 5 1/4" for the doors. The ones listed for xB doors are not much of an upgrade, or, they are component sets. I'm wanting to just upgrade the dash and the door speakers with the bast possible (keeping the OEM door grills and little if any cutting—drilling holes OK). I want to keep the OEM HU for now.

Thanks,

Kerry



I assume that you have a xB