xB dash speaker help needed - pix of problem...
09-23-2005, 11:09 PM
#1
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xB dash speaker help needed - pix of problem...
I went to drop in some new dash speakers (newbie) and came up on this roadblock...
I'm guessing it's some kind of OEM crossover/capacitor... is it needed? If so, how do I disect and attach it to the new speaker? Let me know! Step by steps are appreciated!!!
I'm guessing it's some kind of OEM crossover/capacitor... is it needed? If so, how do I disect and attach it to the new speaker? Let me know! Step by steps are appreciated!!!
09-23-2005, 11:12 PM
#2
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i have those same 4 inchers. i just went out and bought 200hz cap's but in reality you want 500hz ones. then just solder them in... i tried re-using the stock one but it makes the woofer part of the 4 incher worthless cuz it's completely cut out of use. lol.
09-24-2005, 01:04 AM
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you just gently screw em in the stocvk holes no problems. like an 18th inch difference if that.
radioshack might. but they have like a billion caps and no one that works there knows anything... i went to an audio shop.
radioshack might. but they have like a billion caps and no one that works there knows anything... i went to an audio shop.
09-24-2005, 05:37 PM
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Wow ok you guys are killing me lol No disrespect intended its just that ar speakersare very similar to home theater speakers and im sure you can wire those. Basically that blue clip is what factories use to connect their wires to ensure they wont come out, its no special wiring involved. When you go to an audio store and they install aftermarket speakers they connect the factory wires directly to those prongs on the speaker. On the speaker end u have one clip and the car end u have another usually if and only they dont have the adapter they cut the wires from behind the factory speaker and attach via electric tape to the prongs of the new speaker. tape will hold the wires in place. Notice each prong has a hole one the left one on the right (usually the smaller one is gound, there 2 different sizes) all u do is splice the wires giving urself about 1 and 1/2 inch of bare wire twist the bare wire to make it as thin as possible and slide the bare wir thru the holes about half way then twist the 2 hlves together and put a lil tape and ur set. ur ready to put ur peaker back. hope i helped if not let me know.
09-24-2005, 05:48 PM
#7
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ok so its what i had though originally, this guy up here is talking about changing some kind of plug or whatever, wire is wire. im sure i will be able to do it.
Hey en-de-em, how did you get that grill thing off the dash a screw driver just popped it off?
Hey en-de-em, how did you get that grill thing off the dash a screw driver just popped it off?
09-24-2005, 06:37 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by sciondealerI
Wow ok you guys are killing me lol No disrespect intended its just that car speakers are very similar to home theater speakers and im sure you can wire those. Basically that blue clip is what factories use to connect their wires to ensure they wont come out, its no special wiring involved. When you go to an audio store and they install aftermarket speakers they connect the factory wires directly to those prongs on the speaker. On the speaker end u have one clip and the car end u have another, usually if and only if they dont have the adapter, they cut the wires from behind the factory speaker and attach to the prongs and secure them via electric tape to the prongs of the new speaker. tape will hold the wires in place. Notice each prong has a hole one the left one on the right (usually the smaller one is gound, there 2 different sizes) all u do is splice the wires giving urself about 1 and 1/2 inch of bare wire twist the bare wire to make it as thin as possible and slide the bare wire thru the holes about half way then twist the 2 halves together and put a lil tape and ur set. ur ready to put ur speaker back. hope i helped if not let me know.
( I do apologize for posting twice i was workin and was typin quickly so I made a few errors)
( I do apologize for posting twice i was workin and was typin quickly so I made a few errors)
09-25-2005, 03:46 AM
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I dropped in the same speakers with few minor adjustments. I also used the factory connector. I just snip the red and black wire from the factory speaker as close to the solder point and then stripped and put on connectors to each wire.
There is enough room on the wires to make the connection to the new speaker with no issues. I then used two of the 8 metal tabs that came with the speakers to make a custom extension on one of the sides of the speakers. Below is the pic of the tab I bent and places on the speaker to make it all work. It works and holds perfect.
There is enough room on the wires to make the connection to the new speaker with no issues. I then used two of the 8 metal tabs that came with the speakers to make a custom extension on one of the sides of the speakers. Below is the pic of the tab I bent and places on the speaker to make it all work. It works and holds perfect.
09-25-2005, 02:11 PM
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Problem with the factory connector and choke is like in the above pic the speaker prolly goes down a bit deaper....unless you use a speaker with a similiar cross over point you might want to replace the factory choke.....
09-25-2005, 05:53 PM
#13
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Here is more pics of this showing everything fitting with no issues.
Speaker grill is on with no issues.
Start pop’n off the grill with something with a flat blade as shown.
Cover pop’s right off.
Here is the speaker pulled out all connected to the factory wires with no issues.
Here is the close up of the factory connector still being used with the new speaker.
As I mention before, you can just add the two speaker connectors to the existing factory connector. Everything drops into place with no issues just as the factory speakers do. I saw plenty of other post on here with the same speakers so this seems to be a popular choice for a fast and easy drop in speaker with little mods.
Hope this helps out more.
Speaker grill is on with no issues.
Start pop’n off the grill with something with a flat blade as shown.
Cover pop’s right off.
Here is the speaker pulled out all connected to the factory wires with no issues.
Here is the close up of the factory connector still being used with the new speaker.
As I mention before, you can just add the two speaker connectors to the existing factory connector. Everything drops into place with no issues just as the factory speakers do. I saw plenty of other post on here with the same speakers so this seems to be a popular choice for a fast and easy drop in speaker with little mods.
Hope this helps out more.
09-25-2005, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by sciondealerI
Ok so what i told u worked im glad i was able to assist. any other questions u have let me know i used to do auto sound installations and i still do on the side. 
i bought my set for 14.00 shipped surplus from a surplus ebay dealer. they were brand new in a sealed box. gotta love it.
09-25-2005, 10:21 PM
#16
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I gotta jump in here...
Take a look on the back of the speaker magnet. There probably is a sticker of the manufacture that made the speaker. On that sticker will usually show the power handling ability and the frequency response that this speaker can produce. If you are just using your factory head unit to power the speaker you will not need any capacitor ( cap )... the speaker is designed to play full range and that is why the manufacture did not put a cap.... unlike the factory speaker in that location that is basically just a tweeter that is not designed to play the full range of music.. in this case you will need a cap and that is why there is one on that factory speaker.
With that said if you are running an amplified system... using maybe a 4 channel amp with a built in crossover, you would run two channels to power the 4inch speakers and the door speakers etc and you would use the other two channels ( probaby bridged ) to power the sub. In this case you really don't need your 4 inch speakers to be trying to reproduce music say lower than 80-120hz because your sub that you have will take on the task of reproducing the lower notes in music...in this case you still would not need a capacitor on the speaker because your amp has an electronic crossover that would take care of this for you.
If you have a sub and and amp to power your sub but are running the dash and door speakers off your deck power then maybe in that case you might want to cap the dash speakers at about 200hz or so...because again if you got a sub you want the sub to produce the lower frequencies and you don't need your little 4"ers trying to put out bass when you don't need them to.
No disrespect ScionDealerI but if you are doing installs get a soldering gun or buy some connectors.... twisting the speaker wires thru the holes of the speaker terminals and then using electrical tape...oh that is so shade tree ghetto.
Long story short, do it just like DohBoy did in his pictures however don't let your dog chew on the female speaker terminal connecters as shown in the picture... make sure your connectors plastic cover actually cover the metal on the speaker terminals to avoid any shorts....this is were electrical tape is ok to wrap around the speaker terminals ( not to hold the wire ) to protect against shorts.
Take a look on the back of the speaker magnet. There probably is a sticker of the manufacture that made the speaker. On that sticker will usually show the power handling ability and the frequency response that this speaker can produce. If you are just using your factory head unit to power the speaker you will not need any capacitor ( cap )... the speaker is designed to play full range and that is why the manufacture did not put a cap.... unlike the factory speaker in that location that is basically just a tweeter that is not designed to play the full range of music.. in this case you will need a cap and that is why there is one on that factory speaker.
With that said if you are running an amplified system... using maybe a 4 channel amp with a built in crossover, you would run two channels to power the 4inch speakers and the door speakers etc and you would use the other two channels ( probaby bridged ) to power the sub. In this case you really don't need your 4 inch speakers to be trying to reproduce music say lower than 80-120hz because your sub that you have will take on the task of reproducing the lower notes in music...in this case you still would not need a capacitor on the speaker because your amp has an electronic crossover that would take care of this for you.
If you have a sub and and amp to power your sub but are running the dash and door speakers off your deck power then maybe in that case you might want to cap the dash speakers at about 200hz or so...because again if you got a sub you want the sub to produce the lower frequencies and you don't need your little 4"ers trying to put out bass when you don't need them to.
No disrespect ScionDealerI but if you are doing installs get a soldering gun or buy some connectors.... twisting the speaker wires thru the holes of the speaker terminals and then using electrical tape...oh that is so shade tree ghetto.
Long story short, do it just like DohBoy did in his pictures however don't let your dog chew on the female speaker terminal connecters as shown in the picture... make sure your connectors plastic cover actually cover the metal on the speaker terminals to avoid any shorts....this is were electrical tape is ok to wrap around the speaker terminals ( not to hold the wire ) to protect against shorts.
09-26-2005, 01:13 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by xbderby
I gotta jump in here...
Take a look on the back of the speaker magnet. There probably is a sticker of the manufacture that made the speaker. On that sticker will usually show the power handling ability and the frequency response that this speaker can produce. If you are just using your factory head unit to power the speaker you will not need any capacitor ( cap )... the speaker is designed to play full range and that is why the manufacture did not put a cap.... unlike the factory speaker in that location that is basically just a tweeter that is not designed to play the full range of music.. in this case you will need a cap and that is why there is one on that factory speaker.
Take a look on the back of the speaker magnet. There probably is a sticker of the manufacture that made the speaker. On that sticker will usually show the power handling ability and the frequency response that this speaker can produce. If you are just using your factory head unit to power the speaker you will not need any capacitor ( cap )... the speaker is designed to play full range and that is why the manufacture did not put a cap.... unlike the factory speaker in that location that is basically just a tweeter that is not designed to play the full range of music.. in this case you will need a cap and that is why there is one on that factory speaker.
09-29-2005, 02:21 PM
#19
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ok the guy who insists the speakers need caps plz refrain from advising others cuz ur makin ppl spend money they dont need to be spendin ok thank u caps r for bull---- factory speakers aftermarket specially pioneers are fine without them 6 years puttin speakers i think i would know next time u try to make someone look bad plzknow what ur talkin about
09-30-2005, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dohboy
I dropped in the same speakers with few minor adjustments. I also used the factory connector. I just snip the red and black wire from the factory speaker as close to the solder point and then stripped and put on connectors to each wire.
There is enough room on the wires to make the connection to the new speaker with no issues. I then used two of the 8 metal tabs that came with the speakers to make a custom extension on one of the sides of the speakers. Below is the pic of the tab I bent and places on the speaker to make it all work. It works and holds perfect.
There is enough room on the wires to make the connection to the new speaker with no issues. I then used two of the 8 metal tabs that came with the speakers to make a custom extension on one of the sides of the speakers. Below is the pic of the tab I bent and places on the speaker to make it all work. It works and holds perfect.
LOL that is exactly what I did. Great minds run alike
