Hello all,

New to the xA (two days old, 50 miles). Drove a '93 Paseo for about 10 years, so I'm really used to the unflippable go-cart handling from the low and light 'Super Tercel'. Now with the 'Super Echo', and most other modern econoboxes I looked at, the ride is far closer to SUV than I'm comfortable with. (1.26 static stability rating is actually under standard passenger car threshold of 1.30) . The wake-up call was coming home from the dealer on the e-way and deciding to exit at the last minute. Waaaay more squeeling and pitching than expected as I darted over to the ramp. Reminded me of the old family Oldsmobile with 100,000 miles on it.


So anyways, after all that background crud, would appreciate input on the best single way to improve handling for general driving. Not a tuner, not going to the track . . . I really like this car except it actually feels a bit unsafe when you throw its weight around. Just wondering if the strut or sway bar add-ons are worth the money for normal, sometimes-spirited, driving.

Thanks,
Mike

 

depends on how much money u wanna spend, easiest way, just drop in some new springs, and the strut bar will help

 

Lowering the car is the most important because if you're too high up it doesn't matter what other mods you do

 

to improve overall handling for not a lot of dough try this (in order):

Cornering Improvement:
1) lowering springs ~$130 (very noticeable)
2) rear anti-sway bar ~$130 (noticeable)
3) strut tower brace ~$80 (subtle... maybe it's in my head)

did a lot for my ride more than i think an intake or header would've done in terms of daily street driving. no sense going faster unless you can take the turns!

 

Thanks a bunch for the replies. Sounds like lowering is the way to go.

Does this do anything crazy to ground clearance? I wouldn't imagine so - seems like the xA is oversprung to begin with just looking at the wheelwells.

More importantly, if you DIY does it cancel out any warranties?

Mike

 

Special sauce gave the list i would've given, but i would've singled out the Progress bar for the rear.

If you DIY, you will negate the warranty on the OEM springs since they will be sitting on your shelf or something. Otherwise, it has to be proven that the aftermarket part caused the failure for it not to be warrantied. And I've yet to hear of a spring -related failure on here...

 

you can do it man! i have faith in you! just don't screw up!!! j/k

seriously, these things are hard to install incorrectly given the tech resources/articles, the right tools, and a little paitence. just take your time and let us know if you hit any roadblocks

 

one word; Hothckiss. I went with the springs, sway bars and strut tower barce. It all works together. The quality , price and performance are all quite good. Just my opinion.

 

stay off the phone while driving

that'll improve those "Road Manners"

 

195/50/15 GoodYear F1's were put on my xB a week ago.

These drop the car one half inch (more wheelwell gap, unfortuantely)

But they are fantastically great-gripping tires and -silent- in the most extreme cornering (unlike the stock Eagle LS M+S touring tires.

This under-400 "mod" gives you better cornering and better traction and better braking and better acceleration.

The last two improvements come via the shorter radius (hub to ground) which means that the final drive ratio is reduced AND also, the brakes' torque is increased.

Yes, this 50 series tire introduces speedo/odo error but by gum, they stick like gum.

IF you can "like" the small wheel look, this is a viable way to go. I love my new tire size. These are "Summer tires". Other summer tires with AA traction rating and lower than stock sidewall height should give similar results.

My F1 may say "goodyear" on the sidewall, but they were made in Germany/autobahnland

cheers,
Reid

 

I would personally recommend that you go with the rear sway and lower profile tires. You can add the rear sway in fifteen minutes. The tires....well you'd want some 17 or 18 inch wheels (18 inch with a 35 series tire will give you the best handling) with lower profile tires. Yeah tires and wheels are the most expensive, but they will make the xA look tons better. Test that set up for a week or two and see how you like it. Those are the two things that I noticed the biggest difference with. Then with those low profile tires, you'd be looking a little like you had a lift on the vehicle so you'd want some lowering springs.

So here's the order that I'd recommend.

1. Rear sway add-on (Progress in my case)
2. Low pro tires with some nice wheels (215-35-18's for me)
3. Lowering Springs (Hotchkis ~1.5 inch drop for me<this is about the same drop as the TRD springs and is an excellent choice for good handling yet not so low that you drag on everything>)
4. Upper strut tower bar (DC Sports Carbon Steel for me)

I may get slammed on the tower bar because some contend that it doesn't make much of a difference, but I installed mine before the rear sway and I could most certainly feel a quicker responce.

 

lower frame braces front and rear!!!

 

I've been considering those duck_dodgers. How big of a difference can you feel? Do you do street driving only or do you autocross?

 

Either the Progress or TRD rear sway bar, first and foremost. Radically reduces body roll and understeer... Easy install. The best $150 you can possibly invest in handling, imho.

After that, grippier tires, maybe on larger rims. I personally wouldn't go larger than 17" rims and, say, 205/50R17 tires, so you'll have some sidewall left for potholes and ride characteristics... lots of info here on what width and offset are good... also tire brands and models.. I've been eyeing a set of 195/60R15 Falken Ziex 512's...

If that's not good enough, then go to lowering... front strut bars and underbraces provide only small incremental improvements after that, if at all...

My front strut bar didn't seem to change much other than to lighten my wallet ...

 

I'd say the first thing you should do is get the TRD swaybar. The xA does not come with one at all and this should be on the top of your list followed by better tires, strut bar, then springs and struts. There shouldn't be any problem with warranties as they are not allowed to void it unless they can prove the modification u did caused the problem but then again most dealers use any excuse to get out of warranty work as they obvioiusly lose money. If ur really paranoid about the warranty than buy the TRD parts online for cheap and install them urself, then there should be no excuse not to warrant the car as its they're cr@p(if they pull the "but u still installed it" bs they still can't deny warranty bcuz TRD parts are 1. made for the car 2. are warrantied by themselves for 12 months if u do it urself or if u have them install it fall under ur bumper2bumper warranty. If u go this route remember they're parts they're problem)

 

I don't know if anyone mentioned, but change out your front swaybar bushings for polyurethane...it does make a difference.

 

street driving only

 

In order of importance...
1. rear bar. (TRD,Progress or Whiteline)
2. Lowering springs
3. front strut bar.
4. front bar bushings ( Energy)
5. low pro tires
and Monroe rear shocks for ride comfort.

 

One this to keep in mind about big rims and low pro tires is that they do decress sidewall "give", but it also increases unsprung wieght, and incresses the rotational mass/wieght of the wheel. so turning will improve but breaking and accell will decrease slightly, but noticable

 

I have the front strut bar and I love it. It makes turning a blast.