sup guys.

i have a 2006 xb and iam planning to do a Brake job.

meaning replacing the front rotors and the pads.

i've noticed that my rotors are have deep warps and as usual there is the screech sound!

now i wanted to ask if the 2006 xb has ABS on it.

Cuz i don't really recall it having any but i could be wrong.

well if there is'nt do i still have to bleed the brakes?

i previously owned a nissan 240sx and i know the break system of that 240 in the back of my hand. they are all the same way one way or the other.

But i just wanna make sure before i get down and dirty with the box.

if you guys have any pics or other post on this please send. any info. can help thanks!

 

You do have ABS, and you only need to bleed the brakes if you open up a line (either by disconnecting it, or breaking it), because doing so introduces air into the system. If you don't open a brake line, you don't get air in, thus, you don't need to bleed them.

Pretty much every car made with disk brakes is similar. You might have different wacky fasteners (some older GMs use allen bolts, I've seen torx too, but I can't recall where). Odds are, though, there's nothing you can't do with a sensible ratchet set.

I personally have not looked at the brakes yet, but I know that Toyota doesn't screw around, and generally designs things sensibly.

BTW, what do the rotors and pads costs for these cars?

 

^^^ they will vary based on brand/performance, but rotors typically could run you between 100-200 for a set, and pads will be around 50-100 bucks for a set. mind you we only have fronts, so yeah ...

 

Holy hell, even for OEM? That's insane.

Of course, last time I did a brake job, it was on the S10 I had in college, where the pads and rotors together cost me something like $60. That wasn't even the cheapest option!

 

Just get stoptech slotted rotors, and a pair of EBC green brake pads ^^

 

so in other words your telling not to worry about anything about bleeding right?

just pop off and unbolt and bolt on and go?!?

thanks for the head's up you guys!!!

 

Yes, exactly. If you don't disconnect your brake lines, you don't have to bleed them.

 

thanks fella's...

so what rotors do you guys recommend on purchasing?

Slotted?

Drilled?

Slotted and Drilled?

is there even a difference between the two? cooling?heating?duralbility?

i was actually gonna purchase a pair of stop tech's but then i came across ebay

and i seen some cheaper one's but non-stop techs. in the consideration of the price

are the one's on ebay even worth getting at all?!?

 

you get what you pay for i'd get slotted if you want true performance.

 

Slotted if you use your brakes hard. Cross drilled if you want them to look cool. OEM if you don't care. I personally like to use Slotted rotors because I do a lot of heavy braking at the track.

 

Slotted rotors are your best choice, but i track race and im still running on my OEM's, not only that ive never re-surfaced them either, and they look VERY beat up. Until they get to the point of being useless they are going to stay. Ive always used Hawk and EBC, but since im not racing in a while i just bought some Axxis, and they work great, ive also heard they last 2 years so even better!.

 

yup slotted is the way to go.
i just put on project mu pads a month ago. great pads, a bit squealy (but that's prob because i didnt put enough brake quiet goo on ....) but very satisfied.

 

so i was looking up some rotors for the box.

and i came across 2.

StopTech Slotted

Power Slot. Slotted

which is better or what is the difference which do ya'll prefer?

 

Both are good. Power slot has a cryogenic frozen rotor option which helps the rotor last twice as long. Im not sure if Stop Tech has that option.

 

Yes, you have 4 wheel ABS.
No, you don't need to bleed the brakes unless you change out part of the system or open the system.
I alawys just do new rotors with every pad change just because the thinner the rotors get the faster they will re warp. Not worth spending money having old ones turned.