for the end link bushings http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400008

you need to get a couple grade-8 4 inch bolts

 

Not real clear yet. Why don't the OEM bolts serve? Are they too short?

If we find the grip length of the OEM bolt is too long, that you run out of thread,
why not add washers under the nut?


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violence in smilies! condemned!

 

accidental double post deleted

 

via http://groups.msn.com/Sorensonbrian

for photograph click me

as you can see there are two nylon lock nuts on both ends of the end links theres also a part in the middle to put a wrench so it won't move when you loosen the other lock nut

thats why you need a new bolt... oem one will not work but i still used the same torque specs at 13 ft-lbs

 

hey thank you for clearing me up!

 

Here's some pics:

Energy suspension end-link set with 1" spacer. (stuck spacer on the bottom because it was only needed to make the long bolt work .)




4 inch grade 8 steel bolt made the fit good:


Good luck with that. They're hard to reach. Didn't get them off (when I installed a sway bar) till the front member looked like this:

 

well i'm going to try to tackle that task tomorrow when i get my bushings in from what i've seen when i looked i need to move the PS lines out of the way the front ones are easy to get too the back ones is gonna be a slight pain in my rear, i've done crap like that before so i'm sort of use to it

 

well got 'em installed took me 3 and half hours too do

was kind of hoping not to take the wheels off but they came off

the left side was a breeze to do the right side the ps lines were in the way, the bracket on the right side had to be grounded down some was slightly too wide

yes it was very tight underneath too no surprizes there huh lol

since the torque wrench is way too big too fit up in there i gave it a quite a few good grunts and

other then that it was fun doing the install and it was a pain in my awful itch

took it out for a nice little spin i do believe it helped some

 

Tight space, ay? Bet you're tired. That's some tedious work in a cramped space.
Were they lube free or did they have nipples?

 

they came with some lube i got the nipple free bushings and brackets

yeah i'm some sort of contorsionist when it comes too working on cars

 

Is this going to be a problem if you dont use the spacer? The two metal parts of the middle of the bushing are sitting ontop of each other is that gonna cause any problems? (The two bushings where in between the swaybar/suspension arm like where you would put the wrench to hold the stock bolt from spinning)

 

no problem at all, i didn't use the spacer either the bushing made up the diffrentice, i just used the two washers inbetween the two bushings closest together

 

I hope this is ok. I've already torqued it to 13ft/lbs and the bottom rubber peice is getting quite squashed, yet the top doesn't seem to sit properly.

 

it'll settle in

 

You gotta tighten that more it too loose. i had it loose handled really bad. tightened now it is all good.

 

i will post picture of mine later tonight....

 

Make sure you tighten it down while both wheels are on the ground (or ramps).
Otherwise the sway bar won't be as close to the control arm as it normally is while driving. When one side is jacked up it makes it look like it's at an odd angle and puts more pressure on the bottom and top bushing till it's put back down.

 

...

 

...doing mine tonight

 

did it a long time ago but ended up getting the kit and getting a 4 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt insted of using the grade 5 energy bolt provided and getting a 1/2 inch drilling metal shim instead of the 1 inch grade 5 shim provided and just tightening it all the way to the end of the threads on the grade 8 bolt... i plan to grind the excess off the bottomn when i get the time but after about 2 or 3 months now it still has not hit anything
here is the pic