How to Install OTG Camber Shims (56k beware)
#1
How to Install OTG Camber Shims (56k beware)
This is a quick little write up with lots of pictures. (56k nah)
Before:
-Left side:
-Right side:
Step one:
Start by gathering tools... it will make the installation go a lot smoother. One Ton Garage suggests having:
* Car jack (and jack stands)
* Lug nut wrench
* Small, flathead screwdriver
* Ratchet with socket sizes: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm
Heres a pic of all the tools I used
Step two:
Organize the pieces in the camber shim kit... I would take the Left(Driver) side pieces and put them next to the driver side wheel and do the same with the Right(Passenger) side pieces. Just so you dont mix them up.
Step three:
Take off the wheel... self explanitory but you should be left with something like this:
Step four:
Remove the plug as well as the brackets for the parking brake and brake line. You will need the 10mm and 14mm sockets for this.
Step five:
Remove the 4 12mm lugs holding the rear brake hub to the control arm. The space behind the control arm is tight so be careful not to strip the lugs.
You should end up with these 4 lugs per side
Step six:
Pull the rear hub away from the control arm like so...
And install the proper shim with the letter facing up and into the hub. In this case I'm installing the shim with R(Right) on the passenger wheel.
After doing that place the hub back into its respective spot on the control arm.
Step seven:
Get the dog bone and with the arrow facing up and into the control arm use the bolts that is provided and start hand tightening them into the hub. You will need the 17mm sockets for these bolts
Hand tighten them in a X pattern, the same as when you would tighten the lugs on your wheels.
Step eight:
Then, get your trusty torque wrench and tighten them down to 48in-lb. like so...
Again you would tighten them in a X pattern to ensure even tightening on all 4 corners
Step nine:
Put your wheel back on
Here are the results:
And some eye candy:
Hope this helps!
Before:
-Left side:
-Right side:
Step one:
Start by gathering tools... it will make the installation go a lot smoother. One Ton Garage suggests having:
* Car jack (and jack stands)
* Lug nut wrench
* Small, flathead screwdriver
* Ratchet with socket sizes: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm
Heres a pic of all the tools I used
Step two:
Organize the pieces in the camber shim kit... I would take the Left(Driver) side pieces and put them next to the driver side wheel and do the same with the Right(Passenger) side pieces. Just so you dont mix them up.
Step three:
Take off the wheel... self explanitory but you should be left with something like this:
Step four:
Remove the plug as well as the brackets for the parking brake and brake line. You will need the 10mm and 14mm sockets for this.
Step five:
Remove the 4 12mm lugs holding the rear brake hub to the control arm. The space behind the control arm is tight so be careful not to strip the lugs.
You should end up with these 4 lugs per side
Step six:
Pull the rear hub away from the control arm like so...
And install the proper shim with the letter facing up and into the hub. In this case I'm installing the shim with R(Right) on the passenger wheel.
After doing that place the hub back into its respective spot on the control arm.
Step seven:
Get the dog bone and with the arrow facing up and into the control arm use the bolts that is provided and start hand tightening them into the hub. You will need the 17mm sockets for these bolts
Hand tighten them in a X pattern, the same as when you would tighten the lugs on your wheels.
Step eight:
Then, get your trusty torque wrench and tighten them down to 48in-lb. like so...
Again you would tighten them in a X pattern to ensure even tightening on all 4 corners
Step nine:
Put your wheel back on
Here are the results:
And some eye candy:
Hope this helps!
#5
Originally Posted by xBbmxer
It must suck living in cali and have to dress in shorts and sandles in nov. hahaha.
but hey, gfreat write up though, i am thinking of doing this
but hey, gfreat write up though, i am thinking of doing this
its like WTF?!
#16
The OTG kit has toe correction, usually when you alter your camber it throws your toe out which is what wears your tires out faster .... having these will just wear out the contact patch but it shouldn't be any faster then normal thread life (under normal driving). At least as far as a i know ... you can also have your tires taken off and flipped around (and moved to the opposite of the car) so you use up the leftover tread that wasn't really used. I hope i got it right
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