Monroe Sensa-trac 5987 wont fit! Help
#1
Monroe Sensa-trac 5987 wont fit! Help
I purchased the Monroe Sensa-trac rear shocks people have been recommending for softer suspension than stock. They are the 5987's for the rear. I was attempting to install 5 minutes ago and the hole on the bottom of the shock that goes onto the stud by the tire is to small. I compared the holes on the stock and Monroe and it is definitely smaller. How have you guys been able to install these shocks? Help please!!
#2
Ok so I went back out there and wiggle it and pressed hard and it actually went on. The thing that puzzles me is that the hole is definately smaller. I wonder why the stock holes are so much bigger, you would think they would rattle or move about easily. Sorry for the post, but I guess it is good to know for anyone who is going to install them.
#3
Originally Posted by CBC
Ok so I went back out there and wiggle it and pressed hard and it actually went on. The thing that puzzles me is that the hole is definately smaller. I wonder why the stock holes are so much bigger, you would think they would rattle or move about easily. Sorry for the post, but I guess it is good to know for anyone who is going to install them.
Glad you got them on. Much better riding on them.
#5
Just make sure you put that thin, hard steel washer on the threaded shock rod between the BIG rubber piece on the gravel shield and the metal cup above it. That re-inforces the slightly larger hole in the Toyota cup so it fits the Monroe properly. (It's shown on the directions in the Monroe box.)
#7
Originally Posted by Tomas
Just make sure you put that thin, hard steel washer on the threaded shock rod between the BIG rubber piece on the gravel shield and the metal cup above it. That re-inforces the slightly larger hole in the Toyota cup so it fits the Monroe properly. (It's shown on the directions in the Monroe box.)
(i did put it in the right place.)
just curious.
#8
Well, if you look at the OEM shocks there is a massive shoulder to keep the shock from
punching through the hole, and the part of the rod just above that shoulder is larger than the
threaded area of the rod.
On the Monroes the shoulder is a much smaller, sharply machined 'step' in the rod, and the
area just above that step is the same diameter as the threads.
That means the diameter of the rod where it passes through the hole in the metal cup is
slightly smaller on the Monroes, and the step keeping it from punching through is not as large
and is sharp edged. That cup is mild steel...
The purpose of the much closer fitting hardened washer is to keep the rod from chewing on
the hole in the cup or punching through it in extreme use.
So, could it make a difference? Yes. Is it likely to make a difference? Unknown.
The guy putting mine on was going to mis-position the washer to being just under the
self-locking nut on top until I insisted it go where it should, and even took the rubber out of
the cup for him and SHOWED him where it went.
(I really dislike being handicapped and depending on others to do simple work like that - I trust
my own knowledge on how to do it right much more than others - especially the guys often
assigned to do the "simple" jobs like putting on a pair of shocks.)
Bottom line is, just like most jobs, there is no reason to do it wrong, and a whole lot of reason
to do it right...
Tomas
P.S. As long as I'm back here editing, the pic directly below shows the 'shoulder' on the shocks
quite well, too...
__________________
{edited to shorten the lines of text because of the big pic below forcing horizontal scrolling *mutter* *mutter* *mutter* --Tomas}
punching through the hole, and the part of the rod just above that shoulder is larger than the
threaded area of the rod.
On the Monroes the shoulder is a much smaller, sharply machined 'step' in the rod, and the
area just above that step is the same diameter as the threads.
That means the diameter of the rod where it passes through the hole in the metal cup is
slightly smaller on the Monroes, and the step keeping it from punching through is not as large
and is sharp edged. That cup is mild steel...
The purpose of the much closer fitting hardened washer is to keep the rod from chewing on
the hole in the cup or punching through it in extreme use.
So, could it make a difference? Yes. Is it likely to make a difference? Unknown.
The guy putting mine on was going to mis-position the washer to being just under the
self-locking nut on top until I insisted it go where it should, and even took the rubber out of
the cup for him and SHOWED him where it went.
(I really dislike being handicapped and depending on others to do simple work like that - I trust
my own knowledge on how to do it right much more than others - especially the guys often
assigned to do the "simple" jobs like putting on a pair of shocks.)
Bottom line is, just like most jobs, there is no reason to do it wrong, and a whole lot of reason
to do it right...
Tomas
P.S. As long as I'm back here editing, the pic directly below shows the 'shoulder' on the shocks
quite well, too...
__________________
{edited to shorten the lines of text because of the big pic below forcing horizontal scrolling *mutter* *mutter* *mutter* --Tomas}
#9
Originally Posted by micaxB
does it actually matter what side you slip the shock on to the stud on? mines worked both ways..no tapered hole...i checked and double checked.
Top = Koni 80-2827 Sport
Middle = Monroe 5987L
Bottom = Stock KYB
#10
Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
Originally Posted by xbc
Ok so I went back out there and wiggle it and pressed hard and it actually went on. The thing that puzzles me is that the hole is definately smaller. I wonder why the stock holes are so much bigger, you would think they would rattle or move about easily. Sorry for the post, but I guess it is good to know for anyone who is going to install them.
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