Progress Auto 22mm rear sway bar
#1
Progress Auto 22mm rear sway bar
Just installed the Progress Auto 22mm rear sway bar, in addition to the GT Spec 4-point one-piece front chassis brace. This rear sway bar was more difficult to install than the chassis brace. Got this rear sway bar from "PartShippers.com" as well...
I used a lift at the base, and it's best to use one that you don't drive on, because you'll need to remove the rear wheels to access the bolts and nuts for the rear sway bar. Once the rear wheels are off, try to get the forward-most bolt/nut setup partially threaded. This is a little difficult, because the bolt head is on the outside, and the nut is welded to this metal "handle" looking thing, that goes inside that rear square channel. It takes a little bit of patience, but it can be done. Once those are started, you'll have to drop the rear bolt thru the inside of that rear square channel, and the nut goes on the outside, opposite setup to the bolt/nut that you just did. Again, be patient, and get those threads started as well. Once you have all 4 bolts/nuts started, just tighten down in a "X" pattern, You'll need a 17mm socket for the forward bolts, and the socket and 17mm wrench to tighten the rears. The end of the "handle" that the forward nuts are welded to just sits on top of the rear bolt heads, at least the way I did it.
Same initial impressions as with the front chassis brace. Doesn't seem to bounce as much as before, but not sure about body roll and other handling characteristics as of yet.
Just to help point things out, the stock black rear sway bar is inside the black cross channel, and the new gray 22mm rear sway bar runs pretty much parallel underneath it. The new rear sway bar mounts at the bottom of those square channels under the springs and shocks. No drilling or tapping involved.
I used a lift at the base, and it's best to use one that you don't drive on, because you'll need to remove the rear wheels to access the bolts and nuts for the rear sway bar. Once the rear wheels are off, try to get the forward-most bolt/nut setup partially threaded. This is a little difficult, because the bolt head is on the outside, and the nut is welded to this metal "handle" looking thing, that goes inside that rear square channel. It takes a little bit of patience, but it can be done. Once those are started, you'll have to drop the rear bolt thru the inside of that rear square channel, and the nut goes on the outside, opposite setup to the bolt/nut that you just did. Again, be patient, and get those threads started as well. Once you have all 4 bolts/nuts started, just tighten down in a "X" pattern, You'll need a 17mm socket for the forward bolts, and the socket and 17mm wrench to tighten the rears. The end of the "handle" that the forward nuts are welded to just sits on top of the rear bolt heads, at least the way I did it.
Same initial impressions as with the front chassis brace. Doesn't seem to bounce as much as before, but not sure about body roll and other handling characteristics as of yet.
Just to help point things out, the stock black rear sway bar is inside the black cross channel, and the new gray 22mm rear sway bar runs pretty much parallel underneath it. The new rear sway bar mounts at the bottom of those square channels under the springs and shocks. No drilling or tapping involved.
#3
I had to remove the right rear wheel, because I couldn't fit a wrench down in the channel to hold the bolt head while I used a socket on the nut. It worked OK on the left side, but I couldn't get that wrench to work on the right side. If I had a wrench that had thinner sides, or was maybe 6" long, it would've worked fine. But, after wrestling with it for 10 minutes, I conceded defeat and just took the wheel off.
#6
I thought the price was decent, and it's a pretty sturdy sway bar. 'Course I could've spent the money on other things for the car, but for the most part, I'm more of a "form follows function" kinda person, more into "go" than "show"...
#8
There's a step by step write-up in the Tech Section:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59159
I think this is one of the best suspension mods after lowering the Box. It eliminates so much understeer. Ever taken a turn real tight and felt the rear end want to kick out, instead of a sludgy understeer? It takes a little getting used to but feels so much better. These Grade A traction tires I got can't hold up to it, I've gotta go back to AA.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=59159
I think this is one of the best suspension mods after lowering the Box. It eliminates so much understeer. Ever taken a turn real tight and felt the rear end want to kick out, instead of a sludgy understeer? It takes a little getting used to but feels so much better. These Grade A traction tires I got can't hold up to it, I've gotta go back to AA.
#9
Originally Posted by TheScionicMan
It eliminates so much understeer. Ever taken a turn real tight and felt the rear end want to kick out, instead of a sludgy understeer? It takes a little getting used to but feels so much better.
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