replacing brake shoes
#1
replacing brake shoes
I tried to do a search on the forums and can't find much information on replacing the drums on the xB.
When I removed the rim and the locating ring on the hub there are 2 holes that can be used to pull off the drum from the hub assembly. Does anyone know what size bolt I'm suppose to use? I also tired banging the crap out of the drum with a hammer with no luck.
Thanks!
-B
When I removed the rim and the locating ring on the hub there are 2 holes that can be used to pull off the drum from the hub assembly. Does anyone know what size bolt I'm suppose to use? I also tired banging the crap out of the drum with a hammer with no luck.
Thanks!
-B
#2
First, (and it may sound funny, but it's a common mistake), make sure the emergency brake is not on. If it is, you aren't going to get anywhere.
You can use those holes for a long screw (like a 12 mm screw... though I don't know the size of the thread), and tighten each one up one at a time - about 1/4 of a turn alternating repeatidly - to kind of push/pull the drum off.
Try to turn the drum. Does it move freely? If it does, but you can't pull it off, then you might have a groove worn in the drum. I can't help you there. I have seen it happen, but it's never happened to me.
The hammer idea is pretty good, but use a rubber mallet instead. You might have the whack the living poop out of it, but it usually does work. Just remember, try and stay away from a real hammer. The amount of whack you give it with a real hammer, could seriously damnage your drums... or more. You would have to be superman to do that kind of harm with a rubber mallet.
You can use those holes for a long screw (like a 12 mm screw... though I don't know the size of the thread), and tighten each one up one at a time - about 1/4 of a turn alternating repeatidly - to kind of push/pull the drum off.
Try to turn the drum. Does it move freely? If it does, but you can't pull it off, then you might have a groove worn in the drum. I can't help you there. I have seen it happen, but it's never happened to me.
The hammer idea is pretty good, but use a rubber mallet instead. You might have the whack the living poop out of it, but it usually does work. Just remember, try and stay away from a real hammer. The amount of whack you give it with a real hammer, could seriously damnage your drums... or more. You would have to be superman to do that kind of harm with a rubber mallet.
#3
Senior Member
Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Don't remember the bolt size but you only need one of them. They pop right off easy after threading the bolt into the hole. Just try several different ones till you find the right one. It should start by hand a couple of turns tho.
#4
Hmm... hopefully somone call tell me what size screw goes into the holes. I whacked the crap out of the drum with a carpenter's hammer and it didn't budge. Now I gave up and bolted the wheel back on and while driving my girl friend is now telling me that its screeching like crazy. All I did was whack on the drum and fiddled with the release tab through the larger inspection hole. *shrug*
-B
-B
#7
I'm not sure if I ran the self adjusters back in... how do I check that? The car has 53K on the clock and it was making screechy noises from the back once you step on the brakes. My assumption is that the shoes needed to be changed. For $22.00 it's cheap insurance.
-B
-B
#8
There is a slot on the backing plate that you can put a brake spoon (slotted screwdriver for us poor folks) and work the adjusting star loose. You can tell if it starts to get looser after a few turns, or you can spin the drum, if it gets tighter, you need to turn the star the other way. Run it all the way in to release all the pre-load on the shoes. The slot might have a rubber plug in it to keep out water and small animals.
#10
It is a wheel that you either pust the ears from the top or the bottom to loosen, looking thru the slot, you will be seeing it from the side, but there is a threaded piece that the star runs along that is what puts the preload on the brakes. grab a strong flashlight and get up under the car, you should see the slot at about the 5 oclock position, if the drawing I have is right.
#16
My driver's side rear wheel seems to have a mechanical grinding noise coming from it just driving down the street, could this mean the rear brake is shot. It makes the same noise whether or not I am on the brakes. That would be kinda lame to have to fix it at only 15K miles.
#17
okay heres a weird one...
what about when im turning to the right or left and then depressing on the brake pedal, my rear brakes seem to be making a grinding noise.....
this is pretty embarassing as im pulling into a driveway or a parking spot.
the dealership said that since its the brakes they probably wont cover it under warranty. its been making that grinding noise since 6mo into the new car. the new car smell hasnt even gone yet.
anyone know anything? a clue?
what about when im turning to the right or left and then depressing on the brake pedal, my rear brakes seem to be making a grinding noise.....
this is pretty embarassing as im pulling into a driveway or a parking spot.
the dealership said that since its the brakes they probably wont cover it under warranty. its been making that grinding noise since 6mo into the new car. the new car smell hasnt even gone yet.
anyone know anything? a clue?
#20
Senior Member
Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Originally Posted by low_down_xb
3 year 36 bumper to bumper, they HAVE to fix it, not much of a choice to them, if they refuse call toyota directly and report them and tell them what a crappy stealership they are
Of the few that are having grinding issues from the rear brakes, has anyone pulled off their drums to give them a quick inspection. It might be something simple other than just worn out shoes that could be covered under warranty.