Shock/Strut Issues
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
DeepSouth Scions
SL Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 463
From: New Orleans, LA
Shock/Strut Issues
Here's my story: a few weeks ago I blew my driver side front strut. There are several reasons that I have come up with to explain this (stock struts/shocks with 2" drop, heavy ___ 19" wheels, driving like an idiot, etc.). I thought, "great, this will give me a chance to get the TRD shocks." I've lowered vehicles before (I had a '94 Ranger lowered 3", 5"), but that job was much different (no struts, didn't have to swap out front springs, swapped out I-beams in the front, flipped the axle to be on top of the leaf springs in the rear). The job didn't take that long at all and I didn't have any hang ups. BUT, now when I'm driving the passenger side strut makes a noise similar to the noise that my blown driver side strut made before I swapped it out for the TRDs. The rear end of the vehicle also has been making strange noises. I guess my questions are 1. is this normal; do lowered shocks make noises as if they are blown? 2. What could I check to make sure everything is in its right place?
I know one thing that may be a problem, I kept the stock bump stops without cutting/modifying them.
I guess I just need some reinforcement/feedback so I can feel more at ease with my ride. I can handle the noises/feel of the car if I know that nothing is wrong. I'm pretty competent with my hands and working with cars; also while I was doing the install, I had a buddy of mine who works in the service department of a Saturn dealership supervise my work/lend a hand. If anyone thinks that I may have done something wrong, please give me your input. I'd rather do the job over or replace the struts/shocks than have to replace my car because of an accident caused by bad installation of suspension parts. I used the spring install guide in the tech section on here, which explained everything I had to do to swap out the struts (I improvised a little for the rear shocks, but it was much easier than the front). Thanks for your time, guys/girls.
I know one thing that may be a problem, I kept the stock bump stops without cutting/modifying them.
I guess I just need some reinforcement/feedback so I can feel more at ease with my ride. I can handle the noises/feel of the car if I know that nothing is wrong. I'm pretty competent with my hands and working with cars; also while I was doing the install, I had a buddy of mine who works in the service department of a Saturn dealership supervise my work/lend a hand. If anyone thinks that I may have done something wrong, please give me your input. I'd rather do the job over or replace the struts/shocks than have to replace my car because of an accident caused by bad installation of suspension parts. I used the spring install guide in the tech section on here, which explained everything I had to do to swap out the struts (I improvised a little for the rear shocks, but it was much easier than the front). Thanks for your time, guys/girls.
#2
I just installed my springs and rims last week.
however im hearing a noise as well. only from pass frt side.
the car handles and feels great i just hear a noise when hitting small bumps in the road. like a hollow sound.. almost like a blown shock. or somthing loose.. but everything is tight.
what is the noise you hear??
however im hearing a noise as well. only from pass frt side.
the car handles and feels great i just hear a noise when hitting small bumps in the road. like a hollow sound.. almost like a blown shock. or somthing loose.. but everything is tight.
what is the noise you hear??
#7
I dont think it could be your bumpstops. What it sounds like is a common problem when people assemble the front strut cap on the top of the struts and do not line up the flat notches on the metal cap that goes over the coil. You must make sure you compress the spring far enough to set the cap onto the shaft of the strut and they attach the upper strut mount with the bearing in it. Ive had this problem on a tC that I did as well as many Celicas....
#9
no problem. You do know what Im referring to right? The top of the strut shaft where its threaded, has two flat spots on the shaft where the upper cup sits in place.
Try this, pull the rubber grommet cover thats cover the 17mm nut that holds it together on top. leave the car on the ground. See if you can tighten that nut and then drive it again. If the sound that its making sounds similiar to when you drive over a manhole cover (kinda hollow sounding) this is most definetly whats wrong.
Try this, pull the rubber grommet cover thats cover the 17mm nut that holds it together on top. leave the car on the ground. See if you can tighten that nut and then drive it again. If the sound that its making sounds similiar to when you drive over a manhole cover (kinda hollow sounding) this is most definetly whats wrong.
#10
Yea i noticed that under the hoo the top of the strut is above the rubber part. as if it shouldn't be..
is this because the springs are lower so the bolt needs to be tightend down lower?
i tighted to the same spot they were stock.. mabe its not enough..
and not sure about you guys.. but the strut still turns when i try to tighten the bolt...
is this because the springs are lower so the bolt needs to be tightend down lower?
i tighted to the same spot they were stock.. mabe its not enough..
and not sure about you guys.. but the strut still turns when i try to tighten the bolt...
#11
grab the rod with a pair of channel locks near the top. (it won't damage the seals if you grab near the top) that should hold it steady while you crank on the nut. you'll see that the wrench flats need to slip into their slot on the bottom of the strut top..
#14
Originally Posted by Tamago
you'll see that the wrench flats need to slip into their slot on the bottom of the strut top..
Wrench flats?
i did the channel locks to begin with.. just heard other say it shouldn't move. i'm far from a newb when it comes to cars. but i ask because every car is different.