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Best Offset for xB?

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Old 09-23-2005 | 03:12 PM
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Default Best Offset for xB?

The wheel fitment sticky is kinda vague for the info i'm looking for. i'll be purchasing some rims at the end of the year hopefully, and i'm looking into 17s (for ride quality).

So which offset would be the best for a 17"x7" and a 17"x7.5"?

Many thanks in advance. :D

Last edited by MR_LUV; 11-14-2017 at 04:57 AM.
Old 09-23-2005 | 03:13 PM
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25mm and 35mm IMO, but, if you can.. the 7.5" on the rear at 25mm and the 7" upfront at 25mm would be golden, I'd bet ;-)
Old 09-23-2005 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by superjeer
25mm and 35mm IMO, but, if you can.. the 7.5" on the rear at 25mm and the 7" upfront at 25mm would be golden, I'd bet ;-)
pretty much right on

i have 17x7 +25 all around (lover souls only come in one size ) and they are nearly flush with the body in front and in the back its nothing my one ton garage shims cant fix today

Old 09-23-2005 | 05:12 PM
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ooo, let me see, cause I don't know if I need shims or shims AND shims to get my 7" x 25mm flush out back ;-)
Old 09-23-2005 | 08:55 PM
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Help please. I'm considering getting Cal Choppys from Japan
The 15" size, 6.5". Can I safely order the 45mm offset?

My tires are low profile: 195/50/15" Goodyear Eagle F1s

Here's a screenshot of the Choppy choice chart:


OH, and I am Van-cambered in the rear if that matters with the one ton garage plates.

thank you,
Reid

In case it matters to the front end clearances, this tire size is quite a bit smaller than OEM. The bold black ring shows the diminished size, in contrast to the outer circle, which is OEM tire diameter (y'all know this but I say it for noobs only).

Old 09-23-2005 | 09:43 PM
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None of those offsets for the Choppys are ideal to gain a flush appearance, but given the fact that you want to stay with a 15inch I'd go with the +35. Then add a OTG shim in the rear -- still not even close to flush, but better.
Old 09-23-2005 | 09:45 PM
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If I were to run a 17x7.5, I'd go with a +25 in the front and a +15 in the rear.
Old 09-23-2005 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bull
None of those offsets for the Choppys are ideal to gain a flush appearance, but given the fact that you want to stay with a 15inch I'd go with the +35. Then add a OTG shim in the rear -- still not even close to flush, but better.
OK, thanks. You mean that 45 would be too much offset? I just now looked further into the Japanese page and found this recommendation:


I'd better not make error in ordering these wheels. Am only now learning what offset is about. Am such a nooooooooob

But IF the 45mm offset would -fit-, and your advice seems to say as much, then oh yeah I'd go for that.
Am dropped 2.5" front and rear, btw plus another half inch drop owing to the small diameter tires. And of course have the OTG rear camber plates already but no shims.

I suppose I can learn a lot if I just measure, too!
Old 09-23-2005 | 10:00 PM
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The lower the number, the closer they will be to the fender (as a general rule), so +35 would be a better fitment than +45. +45 would look "sunk in" and you may have problems with rubbing on the suspension. 15 x 6.5 +35 will be a very conservative, safe fitment. I'd still add a OTG spacer shim in the rear at a minimum. Also the tire size you're running is too small, but I'm sure you're aware of that.
Old 09-23-2005 | 10:07 PM
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I misunderstood then. I thought wrongly that higher offsets would shove the wheel out.
Crap. OK, So for some perverse reason these OEM sized wheels are gonna sink in over an inch. I don't need that.

It narrows the track considerably. Dang.

OK... I'll have to think and wonder why they'd not make the wheels -just like the OEM steels, at least in this 15" size. They are not -wider- rims. 6.5" is OEM width. Hummm!

Thanks thanks thanks for educating me.
Old 09-23-2005 | 11:28 PM
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To be flush in front with a 7" wide wheel you need:

7" +15
or 7.5" +20

To be flush in the rear with a 7" wide wheelyou need:

7" +7
or
7.5" +15

Those are very conservative widths and offsets too.

Old 09-24-2005 | 12:21 AM
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Ok so with a 6.5" wide wheel I want zero offset=OEM steel, right?

(am not clear yet)

--thanks--
Old 09-24-2005 | 12:56 AM
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Yes that is correct.
Old 09-24-2005 | 03:56 PM
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Wait a moment... huh! I have much to learn. From google search:
In this section we will talk about Wheel Offset, and how it effects perfomance and other factors of your vehicle.

Lets start with the difference between Negative and Positive offset.

Positive offset is how most factory wheels are designed. The wheel center is moves the wheel closer to the vehicle, therefore moving the tire closer to the vehicle, helping to tuck it under the fenderwell. This means the wheel rotates on its axis.

Negative offset is how most aftermarket wheels are designed. They move the center of the wheel away from the vehicle. Therefore, moving the tires away from the vehicle,
and increasing the turning radius. Rather that spinning on its axis, it swings on its axis. There are several inherent flaws with this, while they may be unavoidable. Increasing the offset puts more leverage on the lugs, which means you can break them easier, but it also increases the stance of your vehicle to help keep it more stable. The swinging affect means more lift is needed to avoid rubbing.

Here is a real world example:
On a 1988+ Chevy Fullsize, you put on a 6" Trailmaster Lift, which requires you to use Negative offset wheels. You put on 35" X 12.50" tires. Your large tires swing back and forth and rub the outer fender, therefore you need 2" more lift to clear these tires.....
On the same 1988+ truck, you put on a 6" Pro-Comp Lift, which will allow you to use the factory positive offset wheels. You put on the same 35" X 12.50" tires. Your wheels spin on their axis, inside the fenderwells, and you experience no rubbing, and no additional lift is needed.

Reasons to use Positive offset wheels:
Less leverage on the lugs and steering linkage.
Keep tires tucked under fenderwells.


Reasons to use Negative offset wheels:
Move wheels away from vehicle, when tires are rubbing frame during turns.
Increase vehicle width, making it more stable.
Some people like the "deep dish" look the wheel offers.

Back to the Chevy Main Page

Old 09-24-2005 | 04:05 PM
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as you see, advices are confusing. I want to shove the wheel OUT a bit. That's "negative offset".

Why on earth would Cal Choppy or other -OEM- size wheel feature a positive offset (shoving wheel inboard)??? That would make zero sense.

SO, Cal Choppy's "35" offset in their 6.5"x15" alloy wheel MUST be a negative offset. Right? Must be.

Once I understand the actual situation I want to order these wheels (see the Cal Choppy thread for pics if interested)

Thanks again,
reid
Old 09-24-2005 | 04:40 PM
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If you look at the wheel fitment FAQ in Tread and Butter (https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=348) it lists a +38mm offset for the stock steelies. That means if you use the +35mm offset wheels they will be moved out 3mm toward the fenders. This does not include any effects of tire size, but if you go here http://gs.tolan-hoechst.com/tirecalc.htm (link from the wheel fitment FAQ) it can give you that. Using the info you provided the inside of your tire will be the same location as stock and the outside will be 0.3" farther out.

I think I got that all right, but you should probably double check it.
Old 09-25-2005 | 12:47 AM
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Hmm, mine must suck. I have a 40+ offset
Old 09-25-2005 | 03:43 AM
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Ok I know I'm a moron, but what do "flush" wheels mean and why is that important?
Old 09-25-2005 | 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Prototype_xB
Hmm, mine must suck. I have a 40+ offset
I'm not sure what you mean by that, but there is a guy here in town running +43mm offset and looks OK. It just means you need shims or spacers to get the weels flush with the body.

Originally Posted by Jessman360
Ok I know I'm a moron, but what do "flush" wheels mean and why is that important?
It just means the outside of the tire lines up with the outside of the fender. It's only important for aesthetics. Unless you run camber (like SciFly), most people want to have their tires flush with the body. It just looks better. When you run camber the top of the tire is usually a little inside the body, and the bottom is outside.
Old 09-25-2005 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dudehitt
If you look at the wheel fitment FAQ in Tread and Butter (https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=348) it lists a +38mm offset for the stock steelies. That means if you use the +35mm offset wheels they will be moved out 3mm toward the fenders. This does not include any effects of tire size, but if you go here http://gs.tolan-hoechst.com/tirecalc.htm (link from the wheel fitment FAQ) it can give you that. Using the info you provided the inside of your tire will be the same location as stock and the outside will be 0.3" farther out.

I think I got that all right, but you should probably double check it.

That was a big help. I had not minded the FAQ before.
So! I can get the Cal Choppys with their offset being very nearly similar to the steel wheels offset.
Later on I might consider whether to add spacers on the rear to increase the track width (my main reason: adding track width to compliment the handling benefit of Van's one ton garage camber plates already fitted.

thanks,
Reid


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