Actually he is pressing the hub directly out of (the inner inner race of) the (spindle) bearing. The comment he made of "use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing, and press the bearing out" should have said "use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner FACE of the hub shaft, and press the hub out of the inner inner race". It's a bit confusing because these bearings have 2 separate inner races. The "outer" inner race just comes off still pressed onto the hub. He shows removing that later. This (is a Yaris but I think they're the same) vid clearly shows the inner inner race: ...and earlier in the vid shows him pounding on a socket pressed against the inner face of the hub to "press" it out of that inner inner race (physically separating the hub from the spindle): Here's another technique to remove the hub from the spindle (from the inner inner race) by using a slide hammer:
QUESTION: Does anyone know if there are any separate seals (ie. external to the bearing itself) involved? I've a 2000 bB, which is probably same as 2000 Echo and very likely same as 2004 Scion xB. I've seen seals used in other makes but can't find an exploded view of an Echo or my bB.

 

Any time you remove bearing from spindle, you will damage and destroy it. This operation is only done to replace worn-out bearing with new one. Why else would you want to remove old bearing anyway?

First, look at construction of bearing. Note that inner-races are composed of 2-halves. It is not possible with our current technology to construct dual-row bearing with single inner race.


Also at this diagram of spindle & bearing showing inner-races split into 2 halves.


You can only press on hub initially to remove from bearing. This will split inner-races apart and outer half will be stuck to hub as it's pushed out (or pulled out with slide-hammer).


Next step is to press on remaining inside inner-race to push out rest of bearing from spindle. It doesn't matter one bit if removing hub and bearings damages inner-races, it's being removed because they're worn-out (to be replaced with new bearing). You're not going to be re-installing them anyway after 200k-miles:




You still haven't answered my question:

Please tell me how you would push on outer-race to REMOVE it from recess in spindle?

 

OK, so now you apparently agree with me about pressing out the hub directly, rather than pressing on the inner race as you had first said.

Now, to answer your question:

In your quite good repair write up, you are assuming that the HALF of the inner bearing race inboard on the hub will remain attached to the hub when the hub is pressed on directly to push the hub out of the bearing.

If there's anything that I've learned in many years of doing auto maintenance and repairs, its that its not a good bet to assume too much. Sometimes what is booked as 2 hour repair can take a day or more to complete to a good standard (when everything that could go wrong does)-or 1 hour. (when everything goes perfectly).

Seeing as they are ALL press fits,and manufacturing tolerances and human factors DO exist, this comes down to a case of unknown comparative initial frictional retention forces, plus the complicating factor of potential rust bonding in position .

There is no accurate way to predict the odds of the hub coming out with only half of the inner race of a split bearing still attached as opposed to both halves of the outer bearing race remaining in the recess along with the inner races, when pressure is applied directly on the hub.

If both halves of the inner race DO remain behind when the hub is being pushed through the bearing, it would be a simple matter to press out the entire bearing assembly by pressing on the outer bearing race. From the inner side of course.

 

No you still don't understand. It's two step process that OP and I have said from beginning:

1. press on hub to remove from bearing. Destroys bearing in process by ripping out outside inner-race.

2. remove outer inner-race from hub and use to press out bearing from spindle.


It's obvious that you've never done this before. I've done this at least 20 times, sometimes with press, sometimes with slide hammer. EVERY SINGLE TIME, it rips out outside inner-race with hub. It's a 600-lb press-fit between inner-race and hub!

It's clear you don't understand how bearing is constructed or contained inside spindle recess. Because you've never done this job before. There IS NO BOTH HALVES OF OUTER RACE!!! The outer race is a single piece! Come back with photos of your own when you've tried to "press out" outer race of bearing from spindle recess.

 

Mea culpa. My mistake for not taking the time to edit before posting, other matters take precedence.
Ignore the "both halves" of the outer bearing race, it is obviously a single piece, however, the actions and exectations concerning it remain.

Irrespective of that admitted error, the logic of my reasoning holds, namely that anyone who ASSUMES that they know how any mechanical or electrical part or assembly will act every time that a function or action is undertaken with or upon it, is either mistaken or worse, and is headed for disillusionment.

1. Your supposed "at least 20 times" statement has no value as it is not something independently verifiable.
2. Even if one were to accept the "at least 20 times" statement at face value, 20 is a scientifically insignificant sample upon which to base any conclusion, considering how many thousands of times such a procedure is being done on xB's, other Toyota models, and potentially millions in other brands using the same type of split bearing configuation.

This will be my last post on this matter.

 

From your statements of conjecture, it's so very obvious that you've never successfully done wheel-bearing replacement. Much less even held a wheel bearing in your own hands. As you can see, there is NO halves of outer bearing race, it's one single piece.



It's also apparent you've never even seen or touched spindle-assembly with bearing & hub installed. So I've drawn up diagram for you:



Now first step in disassembly is to press out hub. It will rip out outside inner-race of bearing with it. No ifs, ands, buts or odds of any sort, it will always 100% remove outside inner race with it since there needs to be strong interference fit between hub and race for bearing to work properly with no play. Only thing holding outside inner-race in place is thin grease seal. So we have this situation after hub is removed.



So again... please answer my question:

Please tell me how you would push on outer-race to REMOVE it from recess in spindle?

Also what difference does it make having one or both inner-race halves if you're only going to be "pressing on the outer bearing race" to remove it?

 

At least my 20 times of actually getting my hands dirty and successfully doing job is factual. Versus your ZERO times of actually doing it and making up theoretical cases in your head. Your process simply cannot work because the bearing is captured INSIDE recess of spindle. There's absolutely ZERO way you can press on outer-race of bearing to remove it from spindle. Because there's an outside lip on spindle to precisely locate bearing. It MUST be pushed from outside inwards using inner race to remove (and destroying old worn-out bearing in process).

Your statement indicating "correct" way is from inside out on outer race just illustrates you've never done it. That would just press it tighter into spindle recess, not remove it.





Your "expertise" at bearing replacement is about as valid as my advice to brain-surgeons on how to properly operate... not having actually done it myself... AHAHHAhahahh!!!

 

On earlier models, such as '90s Corolla and Camry, external seals on spindle was needed to close gap to axle because bearings themselves didn't have much in way of seals:


You can see through to ball-bearings inside! Since there's no seals, inner-races would fall out easily, so plastic sleeve is used to keep inner-race halves together during shipping.

The newer Scion bearings uses "Z" designation in their model numbers, meaning they have full metal shields.



There is slight contact on inside and outside edges, so these are sufficient to keep bearing innards clean and to keep grease from squeezing out and drying out bearing. But you should still be careful not to push laterally on inner race as it doesn't take much force to pop out seals.

Basically there are no external seals needed on spindle because bearings have their own already. These work much better than previous non-sealed bearings. Ones on my older Corolla lasts about 100K-miles while the xB can go about 200K.

 

Hi, thanks for clarification and videos! That's how I did it 1st time before I got press! Even cut off outer inner-race that came off with hub using grinder the same way!

Here's another video showing using press to remove hub from bearing, then bearing from spindle like how OP did it. Even using bearing-splitter to remove outer inner-race from hub!

 

[QUOTE=kboehme;3930047]This job took me 2 ½ hours including the time to take pictures and to keep getting more tools. I had a lot of tools available to me that you may or may not have access to.
The auto shop on base had everything I needed so the majority of the work was done with air tools. So for starters lift the car in the air and remove the wheels.

Then remove the brake calipers, there are 2 bolts holding the piston part of the caliper. Remove those and set the pads aside.
Remove the other 2 bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and secure the caliper out of the way.

Attachment 49074

Remove the rotor; you may need to smack it on the backside with a mallet to break it free.
Mine was rusted on and I needed to thread 2 bolts into the small holes to break it free.

Attachment 49075

With the rotor off locate the outer tie rod and take the cotter pin off the bolt and remove the nut.
This is a ball joint and will require you to either press it out or give it a good whack with a mallet to break it free.

Attachment 49076

On the bottom of the spindle, the lower control arm connects with a ball joint.
Remove the cotter pin and nut and break the ball joint free.

Attachment 49077

Take the 2 nuts on the strut bolts off and leave the top bolt in until you are ready to remove the spindle.

Attachment 49078

VERY IMPORTANT take the ABS line off (this is a $200+ part to replace).

Attachment 49079

Remove the axle nut and hammer the axle through the spindle.

Attachment 49080

Now we can take the bolt out of the strut and pull the spindle off the car.

Attachment 49081

Remove the C clip from the bearing (needle nose pliers work well).

Attachment 49082

Position the spindle assembly on the press with the stud side down,
use a socket to apply the pressure to hub and press hub out.
This will separate the hub assembly from the spindle.

Attachment 49083
Attachment 49084

Attachment 49085

Place the hub assembly stud side down on the press and secure with a holding fixture.
The fixture should fit snug around the bearing itself.

Attachment 49086

Use a socket to apply the pressure to the hub and press the hub out of the inner bearing race.

Attachment 49087

Place the spindle on the press with the outboard side up. Put the inner race that was pressed off the hub over the exposed ball bearings.
Then use a socket to apply pressure to the bearing and press the bearing out of the spindle.

Attachment 49088

Attachment 49089

You should be left with a bearing, hub, and spindle. Now it’s time to press in the new bearing. There is no need to grease the bearings at all
and it will actually create problems if you grease them. Position the spindle on the press with the inboard side up.

Attachment 49090

Use a socket to apply the pressure to the outer rim on the bearing and press the bearing down until you feel it seat completely.

Attachment 49091

Attachment 49092

Install the C clip to the inboard side of the bearing.

Attachment 49093

Now place the hub, stud side down, onto the press. Set the spindle with bearing on top of the hub, inboard side up. Use a socket to apply the pressure to the inner race of the bearing and press the bearing and spindle onto the hub. Be careful not to go too far and blow the C clip out.

[FONT=Calibri]You should be left with a complete spindle/hub assembly. Use the same process for the other spindle/hub assembly. To re-install the spindle, seat the lower control arm stud and let the axle shaft slide into the hub. Use a pry bar if needed to apply downward force to the lower control arm to get the bolts through the strut.
Be careful not to pull the inner axle shaft out of the inner CV joint. Secure the axle nut, lower control arm nut w/ cotter pin, and strut bolts. Seat the tie rod stud to the spindle and secure with the nut w/ cotter pin. Re-install the ABS line, rotor and brake caliper and pads. Put the wheels on and drop the car down.
You shouldn’t need an alignment after this job.

Now take the car for a spin and enjoy the smooth quiet ride. I hope this will help anyone who attempts this job. Please use this as a guide and not a technical manual; every car will have its own slight differences.


What do you torque the axle nut down to

 

I'd be very careful with your statement to: "Remove the axle nut and hammer the axle through the spindle." If you do this, you run the risk of messing up the threads on the end of the axle. I loosen the nut to the point where no male threads are showing, then use a block of wood or a brass drift and a hammer. No risk of messing up threads this way.

 

What do you torque the axel nut down to

 

torque is 216 Nm.

Important part is to tighten this before lowering car. So with corner still off ground, have someone step on brakes to prevent hub from spinning. Then tighten axle-nut to 216 Nm. Then after lowering car back on ground, double-check torque.

 

For those looking to go 5 lug, has anyone confirmed if the 2004+ corolla 5x100 hub with press into the xB? There are some posts out there but non complete. I was looking at options to get to 5x120 from 4x100 to fit some corvette salad shooters. I may pull a xB hub from the junkyard and order a cheap corolla 5 lug and try it out. I guess my other options are $380 for 4x100 to 5x120 adaptors with 20mm spacers or redrilling wheels to 4x100, which nobody in norcal seems to be doing anymore. Wish there was a way to change to lug bolts instead of lug studs setup so i can run VW / BMW adaptor spacers. Seems to all costs roughly the same tho.

 

Easiest way is to convert existing 4x100 hub to use lug-bolts (because you already know it fits car).

1. place socket behind studs and squeeze out with vise

2. drill 2nd set of 4x100 holes on hub (in between existing holes)

3. tap 12x1.5mm threads

4. install 4x100 -> 5x120 adapter, use red Loctite and big torque wrench

That's it! Very simple!

Only caveat is hub is kinda thin for 12mm bolts. General rule of thumb is you want 1.5x diameter in threads, so 12x1.5=18mm of threads. I would test-fit bolts all way through new threaded hub holes and screw in thin flanged-nut on back side. Then tack-weld them in place.