What is the lowest offset 15x7 or 15x8 I could run on my xB without rubbing and without rolling my fenders?

Things to consider:
• I'm currently riding on S-Techs, might go lower
• I'd probably want to run a 195/55/15 or 205/50/15 tire.

 

I know with the 15x8 you'll want to go with ~+20 all round. The fronts should run flush and there should be no problem with rubbing up there but in the backs you might need OTG spacers to push em out a little to be flush or it might be just right to run without modifying the fender

 

15x8 +20 in front, +10 or 15 in the rear.

 

A +10 to +15 won't rub in the back? That's a pretty low offset ...

 

For no rubbing i would do:

15x8 +30 A disc
15x8 +15 O disc

195/55-15

Im pretty sure you wont rub with those offsets with your STechs.

 

What is the A and O disc? Are those spacers?

 

Sorry double post.... Look down below

 

Well, I have 17x7 with +25 offset. With the OTG spacer shims in the rear, I rubbed on the right. With them both camber & spacer on, I rubbed even worse. I did do a little fender rolling but it didn't help much. Not sure what the math equals out to... but I think a +15 in the rear on a 8" width would most likely rub.

 

Not spacers.

 

Are the discs something you have to specify when they're being made? If so, do all wheel makers use this terminology? I've never heard of it before.

 

I must admit, I have been around custom wheels for a long time and I have never heard the terms A disk and O disk before either. Unless this is referring to deferent center forgings. Depending on where a company gets their forgings from (or if they make their own) they have different dimensions. And certain companies out there go a step further and can machine off the backside of the mounting pad. That means even more lip.

 

+25 all around to be safe... just remember... you can always push the rears out to be flush with a spacer... but you cant make them go back in without having to buy new rims

 

from what I understand O and A disc is just to specify how thick the mounting pad will be. it gives clearance to the calipers. it relates to those rims with almost straight spokes/face, which others refers has true lips.
http://www.work-wheels.co.jp/wheels/...w/spec-1.html#
click on deep rim to see the visual explanation

 

sid explained it pretty damn well. it deals with how the mounting pad is conformed to go around brakes and things like that. with different configurations, you can have more clearance for brakes, but less lip and other combinations. thats the way i understand it .

im going to be getting a new set (15x8 0 offset) soon im pretty sure so ill tell you how that goes. i may have to get them custom CNC machined to 10 offset or so to get to fitting right so i dont have to run lots of camber and roll the fender wells flat.

 

A disk and O disk is only used my WORK wheels of Japan. Other companies use different terms such as High disk, low disk, and super low disk. Others use Face 1 and Face 2. Each company has different terminology but they all share the same concept. The point of the DISK is to compensate for larger calipers or the lack thereof.

 

Looks like it is either a Japanese thing, or even a Works thing. But it looks similar to what I thought it was. Basically forging design options. Or maybe casting in this case. I don't know, I can't read Japanese.

I bet if I called up my favorite wheel company that can custom build just about anything and asked about O disk, A disk and R disk they would have no clue what I was talking about.

Oops... Guess I should have read the last two posts before I posted.

 

What favorite wheel company is that?

 

Staggered offset = unequal tire wear

 

Intro Wheels / I-Forged

Have a set of 20s on my Dakota, and have never been happier with a wheel. Anything I own with a custom wheel will have a set from one of the two companies. (Even though I just mounted up the wife's new Konig Next over the weekend.)

 

How is the 0 offset going? I think mines are -3 or +3 and Im pretty sure they will stick out a lot.