Just got my Envy Green Paint & Clearcoat today from Expr
#1
Senior Member
Scikotics
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA,
Posts: 338
Just got my Envy Green Paint & Clearcoat today from Expr
Ok Im a rookie painter
Got my Envy green paint & clearcoat today, stuff is expensive!!!!! wow
I want to do the silver parts of the console, my sub grills, as well as the speedo ring, and my badges in envy green, already been debadged
The paint is a perfect match after doing a test blotter
Questions,
do I need to sand & prime the parts before painting?
how many coats before clearcoating?
curing time between coats of paint & before clear coating
I usually work with wood, never metal or in this case plastic
any help and advice would be appreciated
Thanks
#6
Re: Just got my Envy Green Paint & Clearcoat today from
Originally Posted by ChefXB3
Ok Im a rookie painter
Got my Envy green paint & clearcoat today, stuff is expensive!!!!! wow
I want to do the silver parts of the console, my sub grills, as well as the speedo ring, and my badges in envy green, already been debadged
The paint is a perfect match after doing a test blotter
Questions,
do I need to sand & prime the parts before painting?
how many coats before clearcoating?
curing time between coats of paint & before clear coating
I usually work with wood, never metal or in this case plastic
any help and advice would be appreciated
Thanks
I would do some practice on a bicycle frame or something else. Just a heads up.
#8
#11
Also, some of the answers you're looking for should be on the paint/clear cans. Most, if not all, manufacturers put curing time/flash time for their paint and clearcoat on the can.
I'd suggest practicing on some other similar plastics first. Painting can be a tricky thing to start, and clear coats are harder to get looking perfect than paint.
You'll need to sand and primer your plastic pieces for them to look best, and priming might help fill any small scratches that got left behind so they're not as noticable when painted.
It's a fun thing to get into but it's not always point and shoot, especially clear coat.
Sneak some practice in first!
I'd suggest practicing on some other similar plastics first. Painting can be a tricky thing to start, and clear coats are harder to get looking perfect than paint.
You'll need to sand and primer your plastic pieces for them to look best, and priming might help fill any small scratches that got left behind so they're not as noticable when painted.
It's a fun thing to get into but it's not always point and shoot, especially clear coat.
Sneak some practice in first!
#12
Originally Posted by ScionitiS
Also, some of the answers you're looking for should be on the paint/clear cans. Most, if not all, manufacturers put curing time/flash time for their paint and clearcoat on the can.
I'd suggest practicing on some other similar plastics first. Painting can be a tricky thing to start, and clear coats are harder to get looking perfect than paint.
You'll need to sand and primer your plastic pieces for them to look best, and priming might help fill any small scratches that got left behind so they're not as noticable when painted.
It's a fun thing to get into but it's not always point and shoot, especially clear coat.
Sneak some practice in first!
I'd suggest practicing on some other similar plastics first. Painting can be a tricky thing to start, and clear coats are harder to get looking perfect than paint.
You'll need to sand and primer your plastic pieces for them to look best, and priming might help fill any small scratches that got left behind so they're not as noticable when painted.
It's a fun thing to get into but it's not always point and shoot, especially clear coat.
Sneak some practice in first!
I'll Point him in the right direction before he F's his stuff up.
1. Get some gray scotch pads
2. Get some BULL DOG adhesion promoter.
3. I can't remember the name off hand but, it's a tube of compound that you use with water and the GRAY scuff pad it sands and cleans the suface at the same time.
4. YOU NEED PRIMER a EURATHANE GRADE!!/SEALER
1. Sand with water and sanding compound.
2. Dry and wipe down.
3. Apply adhesion promoter per instructions on can.
4. apply primer/sealer you may need to sand may not dependes on if you lay it down nice and smooth. Let dry.
5. If you have to wet sand, rinse and let dry then wipe down with TACK CLOTH
6. Mix yellow prolly 1:1 with eurothane grade reducer either SLOW/MEDIUM/FAST depending on your climate. PUT DOWN LIGHT COAT, let flash put down a little heavier coat. LET FLASH Finish with a good wet COAT. Let dry for 15-30min.
7. Check base coat for trash/runs whatever you may/may not get. if it needs to be color sanded use 600 grit. then repeat paint process again.
8. 3 coats clear. same process as the base coat, you want to let the clear get TACKY so it will not want to run. I don't know what clear you have so it could be 4:1 or 2:1 even 3:1 mix ratio. you might want to add the eurothane reducer to it so it will flo with minimal ORANGE PEEL!!!!!!! GOOD LUCK.
#13
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Scikotics
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA,
Posts: 338
I'm not being a jerk but I have been painting professionally for 8yrs and if you need to ask these questions your prolly going to screw up your dash pieces.
I would do some practice on a bicycle frame or something else. Just a heads up.
I would do some practice on a bicycle frame or something else. Just a heads up.
This is why i asked the question.
After reading your instructions posted later, Im on the right track, Ive done quite a bit of wood staining & clear coating, sanding, wet/dry sanding, etc. I do intend to practice a bit Great advice though
Thank you Midlife
#18
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Scikotics
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA,
Posts: 338
#19
Originally Posted by ChefXB3
I don't know what clear you have so it could be 4:1 or 2:1 even 3:1 mix ratio
#20
Originally Posted by ChefXB3