Tutorial-Install xB OEM CF Spoiler
03-18-2005, 11:14 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 25
Tutorial-Install xB OEM CF Spoiler
Recently I purchased a CF Spoiler on eBay that does NOT have the holes on top. The one I purchased was very good quality and I was thrilled until I started studying the dilemma I would have installing it 
The sellers (innomotor) listing showed a CFS with holes and plugs on the top. However the spoiler I received did not have them. You will also note in his listing that he states that there are no instructions. I believe this may be because he doesn't even know how to install it.
Here is a link to the item he sells.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...960663164&rd=1
With this said... I have figured out how to install it. And the part I received is either a VERY GOOD knockoff of the bB OEM version, or as I believe it IS the bB OEM version. The inner cupped area (where it meets up with the top of the hatch) has TOYOTA, and part #'s embossed and a holographic sticker printed in Japanese Kanji. In addition, I believe the photos in this tutorial should convince most people that this style of spoiler without the caps on top is the “True OEM” version.
IF YOU CHOOSE TO INSTALL YOUR SPOILER, YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK! THIS INSTALLATION REQUIRES DRILLING HOLES AND MISTAKES ARE NOT EASILY REVERSABLE!! I ASSUME AND ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILTY FOR YOUR ACTIONS!!!
LAYOUT
With the assistance of a helper, locate the spoiler on your xB (centered, and flush). then use a soapstone pencil or piece of chalk to trace around the mounting area.
After marking the mounting area I carefully measured the distance (from bottom and side) of the existing 6mm tapped hole on the spoiler. Next, I measured and marked these distances on the xB. Next, I suggest you measure the actual center to center distance of the two mounting holes on the spoiler and compare it to the distance you just layed out on your xB. AFTER TRIPLE CHECKING EVERYTHING I centerpunched the hole location, then drilled each with a 1/16" drill, and finally, with a 1/4" drill.
After the outer holes were drilled, I used a "center punch" to locate the position of the holes necessary on the inside of the hatch. When you place the center punch in to the outer hole and move it towards the inside you will need to "feel around" a bit until you feel the center punch pass through another internal hole. When your sure you have passed through this internal hole, just give the center punch a light tap to slightly dent the inside sheet metal, thus marking the location of the holes on the inside of the hatch.
INSIDE HOLES
Open the hatch and locate the two small punch marks from the previous step. Next use your punch to "repunch" them from the inside so that you can drill the holes. As with the outside, I first drilled them with a 1/16" drill bit, and then opened them up larger with a 1/4" drill bit.
The next step is a bit scary but it will be necessary to open these two holes even further to 3/4". I did not have a "hole saw" (which I believe would be the easiest tool for the job), thus I had to make due with what I had. I used a 3/4" countersink bit to open the holes up to 3/4". After the countersink was all the way through, I had to use a needle nose plier and small file to "debur" the holes. Finally, I had to use a small screwdriver to gently reshape the holes since the sheet metal had "concaved" slightly when I used the countersink drillbit.
MOUNTING SUB STRUCTURE
In the next picture you can see that there is an Existing Sub Structure that was under the painted sheet metal. The hole in this sub structure was existing (I did Not drill the internal hole). This is what you were "feeling for" with your center punch in one of the previous steps. Therefore Scion placed this mounting point into the hatch for mounting a spoiler, thus the True OEM spoiler does Not have caps
GASKET/SEAL
Below are pictures of the material I used between the spoiler and the hatch. It is sold as "Truck Box Liner" at Home Depot and it seems to be performing well. The material appears to provide a good seal against water, and it has the added benefit of isolating any vibration.
After rough cutting a piece of the gasket for each side, I placed them in position between the spoiler and hatch, (a helper is very beneficial while doing this). Next, using a yellow highlighter, I marked very precisely around the spoiler to trace its shape onto the gasket. Finally, I removed them and used a pair of scissors to cut them to size based on my tracing.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Assembling everything turned out to be a little more difficult than I expected. First you will need two 6mm diameter bolts that are 75~80mm long, (please measure your total depth and verify!). These turned out to be very difficult to locate on a Sunday, but I finally found 80mm length bolts at NAPA.
Place your long bolt (with washer or washers) through the inside sub structure hole and then out through the outside hole. Next you will need your helper to hold the gasket in its proper position as you start threading the bolt into the spoiler. When, both sides are started you can use a 10mm socket to tighten them down slowly as you assure the gasket is positioned correctly.
The last step was to paint the rough edges of the 3/4" hole with some fingernail polish. After it dried I installed a rubber plug. Since my bolts were 80mm long and I had to use a flat washer and a lock washer, I had very little clearance to install this rubber plug. This is why I believe a 75mm long bolt with just one washer would be better.
THE FINISHED PRODUCT
The sellers (innomotor) listing showed a CFS with holes and plugs on the top. However the spoiler I received did not have them. You will also note in his listing that he states that there are no instructions. I believe this may be because he doesn't even know how to install it.
Here is a link to the item he sells.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...960663164&rd=1
With this said... I have figured out how to install it. And the part I received is either a VERY GOOD knockoff of the bB OEM version, or as I believe it IS the bB OEM version. The inner cupped area (where it meets up with the top of the hatch) has TOYOTA, and part #'s embossed and a holographic sticker printed in Japanese Kanji. In addition, I believe the photos in this tutorial should convince most people that this style of spoiler without the caps on top is the “True OEM” version.
IF YOU CHOOSE TO INSTALL YOUR SPOILER, YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK! THIS INSTALLATION REQUIRES DRILLING HOLES AND MISTAKES ARE NOT EASILY REVERSABLE!! I ASSUME AND ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILTY FOR YOUR ACTIONS!!!
LAYOUT
With the assistance of a helper, locate the spoiler on your xB (centered, and flush). then use a soapstone pencil or piece of chalk to trace around the mounting area.
After marking the mounting area I carefully measured the distance (from bottom and side) of the existing 6mm tapped hole on the spoiler. Next, I measured and marked these distances on the xB. Next, I suggest you measure the actual center to center distance of the two mounting holes on the spoiler and compare it to the distance you just layed out on your xB. AFTER TRIPLE CHECKING EVERYTHING I centerpunched the hole location, then drilled each with a 1/16" drill, and finally, with a 1/4" drill.
After the outer holes were drilled, I used a "center punch" to locate the position of the holes necessary on the inside of the hatch. When you place the center punch in to the outer hole and move it towards the inside you will need to "feel around" a bit until you feel the center punch pass through another internal hole. When your sure you have passed through this internal hole, just give the center punch a light tap to slightly dent the inside sheet metal, thus marking the location of the holes on the inside of the hatch.
INSIDE HOLES
Open the hatch and locate the two small punch marks from the previous step. Next use your punch to "repunch" them from the inside so that you can drill the holes. As with the outside, I first drilled them with a 1/16" drill bit, and then opened them up larger with a 1/4" drill bit.
The next step is a bit scary
but it will be necessary to open these two holes even further to 3/4". I did not have a "hole saw" (which I believe would be the easiest tool for the job), thus I had to make due with what I had. I used a 3/4" countersink bit to open the holes up to 3/4". After the countersink was all the way through, I had to use a needle nose plier and small file to "debur" the holes. Finally, I had to use a small screwdriver to gently reshape the holes since the sheet metal had "concaved" slightly when I used the countersink drillbit.MOUNTING SUB STRUCTURE
In the next picture you can see that there is an Existing Sub Structure that was under the painted sheet metal. The hole in this sub structure was existing (I did Not drill the internal hole). This is what you were "feeling for" with your center punch in one of the previous steps. Therefore Scion placed this mounting point into the hatch for mounting a spoiler, thus the True OEM spoiler does Not have caps
GASKET/SEAL
Below are pictures of the material I used between the spoiler and the hatch. It is sold as "Truck Box Liner" at Home Depot and it seems to be performing well. The material appears to provide a good seal against water, and it has the added benefit of isolating any vibration.
After rough cutting a piece of the gasket for each side, I placed them in position between the spoiler and hatch, (a helper is very beneficial while doing this). Next, using a yellow highlighter, I marked very precisely around the spoiler to trace its shape onto the gasket. Finally, I removed them and used a pair of scissors to cut them to size based on my tracing.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Assembling everything turned out to be a little more difficult than I expected. First you will need two 6mm diameter bolts that are 75~80mm long, (please measure your total depth and verify!). These turned out to be very difficult to locate on a Sunday, but I finally found 80mm length bolts at NAPA.
Place your long bolt (with washer or washers) through the inside sub structure hole and then out through the outside hole. Next you will need your helper to hold the gasket in its proper position as you start threading the bolt into the spoiler. When, both sides are started you can use a 10mm socket to tighten them down slowly as you assure the gasket is positioned correctly.
The last step was to paint the rough edges of the 3/4" hole with some fingernail polish. After it dried I installed a rubber plug. Since my bolts were 80mm long and I had to use a flat washer and a lock washer, I had very little clearance to install this rubber plug. This is why I believe a 75mm long bolt with just one washer would be better.
THE FINISHED PRODUCT
04-06-2005, 02:58 AM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 25
Thanks to all for you comments! I hope it is useful to anyone faced with the same situation of installing this type of spoiler.
In addition, I would like to thank mikochu for adding this to the "technical" section.
In addition, I would like to thank mikochu for adding this to the "technical" section.
07-05-2005, 12:55 PM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 6
Spoiler install
Hey guy,
Thanks for the tutorial. I used it to install my CF spoiler and my biggest problem was finding the bolts. One thing I would add: I used PVC shower pan liner between the spoiler and car, it's not quite as thick as the truck box liner you suggested and serves the same purpose; no vibration and seals out water.
Thanks again
Scott
SamuraiZenU
Thanks for the tutorial. I used it to install my CF spoiler and my biggest problem was finding the bolts. One thing I would add: I used PVC shower pan liner between the spoiler and car, it's not quite as thick as the truck box liner you suggested and serves the same purpose; no vibration and seals out water.
Thanks again
Scott
SamuraiZenU
08-16-2005, 10:14 PM
#18
Senior Member
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 6,564
I have seen the install of the spoiler at the port here in Long Beach. It is very interesting!!! They use this thing that is for mounting and they have to remove these screws in the hatch. it is cool to watch though.
08-17-2005, 01:24 AM
#19
Junior Member
OhioScions
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wilmington, Ohio
Posts: 21
I finally got it on. It only took ALL day. The write up was great, it should have only taken about an hour, but we had to have that one bolt that just would not go on right. It still is not on right, but it will hold until I have enough time to get what I need to fix it.
If any one else does try this, do go out and buy longer bolts before you start. That was part of our problem, especially when the nearest parts store is 15 minutes down the road.
Thanks Brookforest.
If any one else does try this, do go out and buy longer bolts before you start. That was part of our problem, especially when the nearest parts store is 15 minutes down the road.
Thanks Brookforest.
03-19-2006, 02:52 AM
#20
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Posts: 167
Why are you guys making such a big deal about being 40 Years old? I'm 75, and a have a five speed XB. I haven't had so much fun since my 1983 VW GTI. But I don't have big enough gonads to drill 3/4" holes in mine.