xB Fender Flares?
#21
8 inch wide wheel with 0 mm offset
The “*”s represent the mounting hub of the wheel…if the offset is positive, the mounting hubs would move over to the right (the outside dish of the wheel)…if you get negative offset, the mounting hub would move over to the left (inside dish of the wheel). With the negative, you would gain more lip…now keep in mind, that is just the basics, now if you wanna get into A Disk and O disk, that’s another whole explanation, but there is the basics of offsets…hope that illustration helps people out ;-)
The “*”s represent the mounting hub of the wheel…if the offset is positive, the mounting hubs would move over to the right (the outside dish of the wheel)…if you get negative offset, the mounting hub would move over to the left (inside dish of the wheel). With the negative, you would gain more lip…now keep in mind, that is just the basics, now if you wanna get into A Disk and O disk, that’s another whole explanation, but there is the basics of offsets…hope that illustration helps people out ;-)
#22
#23
Originally Posted by ctruss
Originally Posted by bBOXD
IMHO for flares this is what i would do.
9" -25
10" -15
9" -25
10" -15
If you go with a 9" wide wheel, you will need roughly -25mm offset in the front and -20mm in the rear. If you do 8" wide wheels you will need roughly -20mm offset in the front and -10mm offset in the rear.
As you increase that negative offset number you will have less dish and the wheel will not stick out as far.
Example: Most sport compact cars or FWD cars in general (including our xB's) have wheels with an offset of -33mm to -40mm.
Trust me... I know...
suspended- Thanks for the explanation bro. You do know what you are talking about.
#24
yea sorry ctruss you're way off on this one. the more negative it is, the more dish it *usually* has and the more it sticks out away from the car.
wayne did explain it well. most wheels for our cars that are seen are the honda offsets (40 offset) and most FWD are positive like that.
if you have any questions, feel free to PM me and I can answer them for you.
Then again I am a noob at this car stuff
Scott
wayne did explain it well. most wheels for our cars that are seen are the honda offsets (40 offset) and most FWD are positive like that.
if you have any questions, feel free to PM me and I can answer them for you.
Then again I am a noob at this car stuff
Scott
#25
Sorry, i got negative and positve mixed up.
I know FWD wheels are HIGH offset and I also know I am right about the size wheels needed as I stated above.
I won't go anyfurther because you all obviously think you are better than me. I guess I should be bowing down to your superior knowledge. Hope you are picking up my sarcasm.
I know FWD wheels are HIGH offset and I also know I am right about the size wheels needed as I stated above.
I won't go anyfurther because you all obviously think you are better than me. I guess I should be bowing down to your superior knowledge. Hope you are picking up my sarcasm.
#26
I know a thing or two about cars, after about 6 years, some things catch on ;-)
I would have to agree with bboxd on the offsets for the flares, right now i'll use my fronts for example, they are 17x8.5 with a + 16mm offset, and notice from the pic, they stick out slighly (almost an inch, and i'm running no camber in the front at present time in that pic)
now with them sticking out that far, if you have fender flares that give you two more inches of clearance...lets see here...
2 inches=50.8 mm
16-50=-34 (which I don't think they make a wheel that they make a wheel with that offset)
I would suggest possibly a 9" or even a 10" wheel with the correct offsets, just play around with the figures like i explained above, remember, with the chart i made, for a 9" wide wheel, each side of the hub will have roughly 4.5", etc etc, just split the number in half (yes, that will only give you an aproxomite b/c no hub is 0 inches...hopefully you know what i mean ;-)
I would have to agree with bboxd on the offsets for the flares, right now i'll use my fronts for example, they are 17x8.5 with a + 16mm offset, and notice from the pic, they stick out slighly (almost an inch, and i'm running no camber in the front at present time in that pic)
now with them sticking out that far, if you have fender flares that give you two more inches of clearance...lets see here...
2 inches=50.8 mm
16-50=-34 (which I don't think they make a wheel that they make a wheel with that offset)
I would suggest possibly a 9" or even a 10" wheel with the correct offsets, just play around with the figures like i explained above, remember, with the chart i made, for a 9" wide wheel, each side of the hub will have roughly 4.5", etc etc, just split the number in half (yes, that will only give you an aproxomite b/c no hub is 0 inches...hopefully you know what i mean ;-)
#28
Originally Posted by ctruss
Sorry, i got negative and positve mixed up.
I know FWD wheels are HIGH offset and I also know I am right about the size wheels needed as I stated above.
I won't go anyfurther because you all obviously think you are better than me. I guess I should be bowing down to your superior knowledge. Hope you are picking up my sarcasm.
I know FWD wheels are HIGH offset and I also know I am right about the size wheels needed as I stated above.
I won't go anyfurther because you all obviously think you are better than me. I guess I should be bowing down to your superior knowledge. Hope you are picking up my sarcasm.
#29
Originally Posted by ctruss
^^Those are nice wheels.
#31
The one thing all of you "wheel gurus" are forgetting to mention is that an 8" wide wheel isn't 8" wide. An 8" wheel with 0 offset doesn't leave 4" in the back and 4" in the front. It is more like 4.5" in the back and 4.5" to the front. Wheels are measured to the inside of the lip at the tire mounting surface. Most wheels have close to 1/2" of additional material on each side.
So everyone needs to keep that in mind when you are trying to figure out your own custom fitments. If you are having a quality wheel company build the wheels all you should have to do is tell them what vehicle you have, what kind of stance it has, and how you want your wheels to fit (tuck, flush, etc.) If they can't get it correct with that much information, it is time to move on to a different (better) wheel company.
So everyone needs to keep that in mind when you are trying to figure out your own custom fitments. If you are having a quality wheel company build the wheels all you should have to do is tell them what vehicle you have, what kind of stance it has, and how you want your wheels to fit (tuck, flush, etc.) If they can't get it correct with that much information, it is time to move on to a different (better) wheel company.
#32
Originally Posted by RTon20s
The one thing all of you "wheel gurus" are forgetting to mention is that an 8" wide wheel isn't 8" wide. An 8" wheel with 0 offset doesn't leave 4" in the back and 4" in the front. It is more like 4.5" in the back and 4.5" to the front. Wheels are measured to the inside of the lip at the tire mounting surface. Most wheels have close to 1/2" of additional material on each side.
So everyone needs to keep that in mind when you are trying to figure out your own custom fitments. If you are having a quality wheel company build the wheels all you should have to do is tell them what vehicle you have, what kind of stance it has, and how you want your wheels to fit (tuck, flush, etc.) If they can't get it correct with that much information, it is time to move on to a different (better) wheel company.
So everyone needs to keep that in mind when you are trying to figure out your own custom fitments. If you are having a quality wheel company build the wheels all you should have to do is tell them what vehicle you have, what kind of stance it has, and how you want your wheels to fit (tuck, flush, etc.) If they can't get it correct with that much information, it is time to move on to a different (better) wheel company.
#33
Originally Posted by suspended
Originally Posted by RTon20s
The one thing all of you "wheel gurus" are forgetting to mention is that an 8" wide wheel isn't 8" wide. An 8" wheel with 0 offset doesn't leave 4" in the back and 4" in the front. It is more like 4.5" in the back and 4.5" to the front. Wheels are measured to the inside of the lip at the tire mounting surface. Most wheels have close to 1/2" of additional material on each side.
So everyone needs to keep that in mind when you are trying to figure out your own custom fitments. If you are having a quality wheel company build the wheels all you should have to do is tell them what vehicle you have, what kind of stance it has, and how you want your wheels to fit (tuck, flush, etc.) If they can't get it correct with that much information, it is time to move on to a different (better) wheel company.
So everyone needs to keep that in mind when you are trying to figure out your own custom fitments. If you are having a quality wheel company build the wheels all you should have to do is tell them what vehicle you have, what kind of stance it has, and how you want your wheels to fit (tuck, flush, etc.) If they can't get it correct with that much information, it is time to move on to a different (better) wheel company.
that is true that the wheel lip diameter (from outside to inside) is about an inch more than the wheels "size", but the facts still remain that the offsets given wouldnt add up to a flared look. hardly ever is it the case that the wheel lip is half the size of the diameter of the given size by the manufacturer. (4 inch lip on 8inch for example). that will depend on the type of wheel and the construction also. (1 piece, 2 piece, 3 piece)
What im basically saying is, that what you put RTon20s, is not going to affect the sheer fact that the offsets given by ctruss would be vastly off from what they should be. Lip size on this would not be a factor as a 17x7 with 40 offset or whatever would not be close to what it really could be.
Scott
#34
You might not think the statement I made is a big deal, but it can mean all the difference in the world. I know this from personal experience. It is especially important for folks who are trying to take measurements on their own for wheel companies. That TRUE inside and outside lip is where you are going to see all of your interference. It is best to know where it will truly sit.
#36
Yea no doubt I had to fit 15x9s on my car and it was a _____ because of that inside "real" lip. When you're spacing out a wheel that far such that you need fenders, usuallys its not the components of suspension that interfere, its more like fenders
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