Cheap ebay header installed with photos and tips
#21
Originally Posted by HotBox420
did nobody notice the holes on the new header pipes are smaller than stock???
Originally Posted by greybox
The holes look smaller on the header due to the soot on the stock one.
Can anyone confirm if the soot marks on the stock manifold are actually the size of the exhaust ports on the cylinder head or if the gasket is just oversized around the ports?
#22
I couldn't get a good picture of the head that showed the holes as far as size or shape but from the soot on the stock manifold it looks like the holes coming out of the head are pretty good sized.
The headers pipes are actually slightly bigger than the stock manifold and like stew pointed out, it's the soot that makes it not look that way.
I didn't want a 2 or 2.25 inch header for fear of losing low end but the sake that the headers tubes are all the same length, bent more cleanly and the collector if farther away makes the flow much better.
The headers pipes are actually slightly bigger than the stock manifold and like stew pointed out, it's the soot that makes it not look that way.
I didn't want a 2 or 2.25 inch header for fear of losing low end but the sake that the headers tubes are all the same length, bent more cleanly and the collector if farther away makes the flow much better.
#23
Re: Cheap ebay header installed with photos and tips
Originally Posted by greybox
I bought the cheap header off of ebay for $25 with ceramic coating and here's what I got.
nice find...
#28
I didn't get a photo-they were from baxter auto-the sku number on the back plus the brand should get you pointed in the right direction
looks like this
http://www.carpartsmit.com/images/do...ro/ES72143.jpg
looks like this
http://www.carpartsmit.com/images/do...ro/ES72143.jpg
#29
Thanks for the information.
If I put the stock number in that is listed on the package you have a pic of in the Baxter website. 3 things come up with that number.
And the obvious one mentions that it is for Chrysler. Is that the one I get?
or are any of these any good?
http://search.ebay.com/exhaust-sprin...Z1QQsofocusZbs
If I put the stock number in that is listed on the package you have a pic of in the Baxter website. 3 things come up with that number.
And the obvious one mentions that it is for Chrysler. Is that the one I get?
or are any of these any good?
http://search.ebay.com/exhaust-sprin...Z1QQsofocusZbs
#31
It's weird because one box said chrysler and one said dodge-exact same part. The length of the section that is smooth is the most important one so make sure in person that is is the same as the stock one.
It is also advisable to put a washer against the header flange to make sure the shoulder doesn't start to push into the hole in the header flange. I will try to a diagram later today to help explain. I did one with a washer and one without and it seems to be working fine both ways.
It is also advisable to put a washer against the header flange to make sure the shoulder doesn't start to push into the hole in the header flange. I will try to a diagram later today to help explain. I did one with a washer and one without and it seems to be working fine both ways.
#32
Pieced together diarama of how the bolts go-it's actually easy to do. I used a washer on 1 but not on the other and it's fine
The ceramic is slightly peeling but only at that one point and it is stainless steel so it shouldn't rust or decolor. It still stays cool too.
The ceramic is slightly peeling but only at that one point and it is stainless steel so it shouldn't rust or decolor. It still stays cool too.
#33
Senior Member
Music City Scions
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
What about just using a regular bolt instead of the one with the shoulder on it?
Also, do the original bolts stay tight in the head or should lock washers or lock tight be used?
Also, do the original bolts stay tight in the head or should lock washers or lock tight be used?
#35
Never bolt an exhaust directly together-the engine needs to have the ability to rock seperately-you will end up cracking the welds at the head or flange.
The shoulder bottoms out against the header flange and the spring provides the tension holding the flanges close and giving an exhaust seal but allowing movement.
The bolts I bouth come with a flat piece of metal with a nut built in and then the brass one tightens against it to lock the threads (hence being brass it contorts and locks itself in place)
The shoulder bottoms out against the header flange and the spring provides the tension holding the flanges close and giving an exhaust seal but allowing movement.
The bolts I bouth come with a flat piece of metal with a nut built in and then the brass one tightens against it to lock the threads (hence being brass it contorts and locks itself in place)
#37
Senior Member
Music City Scions
SL Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
I'm gonna tackle this same project as soon as my header shows up. I already pulled the heat shield and sprayed the bolts down with penetrating fluid. Now I wait.
#39
Update!
The header is working just fine-coating is flaking a little bit more but for the price???/
There was a chrome one one ebay as well that was actually being made by a real company but sold by one of those cheap dealers and I looked it up and the quality was very good but I figured by the time I bought the header (it was like $75 for it and shipping) and then bought header wrap (another $15) I could just get this and header wrap it later if need be.
I will try to get some pics later.
The header is working just fine-coating is flaking a little bit more but for the price???/
There was a chrome one one ebay as well that was actually being made by a real company but sold by one of those cheap dealers and I looked it up and the quality was very good but I figured by the time I bought the header (it was like $75 for it and shipping) and then bought header wrap (another $15) I could just get this and header wrap it later if need be.
I will try to get some pics later.