Topping Off the Tank -- How and Why and Good or Bad
#21
From an old post I made (in addition to the instructions, don't top off the tank or go any extra 'clicks').
I'd like to give a few pointers on getting accurate readings.
1) Fill up your tank in the morning and before you have your car on longer than 5 minutes.
2) Try to use the exact same gas pump for testing. Not all pumps are created equal.
3) Try to fill up in similar weather conditions/temperatures.
4) Make sure your tires are properly inflated.
Now getting to the actual process, here is step by step of how it should be done.
1) Fill up your tank and reset your trip odometer.
2) When you need to fill up, write down the miles on the trip odometer and how much gas you put in the tank.
3) Use the following formula: a= miles on trip odometer; b = gallons of gas used to fill up tank; c=mpg
a/b=c
ex: a=287.9 miles/b=10.7 gallons=c=26.9mpg
1) Fill up your tank in the morning and before you have your car on longer than 5 minutes.
2) Try to use the exact same gas pump for testing. Not all pumps are created equal.
3) Try to fill up in similar weather conditions/temperatures.
4) Make sure your tires are properly inflated.
Now getting to the actual process, here is step by step of how it should be done.
1) Fill up your tank and reset your trip odometer.
2) When you need to fill up, write down the miles on the trip odometer and how much gas you put in the tank.
3) Use the following formula: a= miles on trip odometer; b = gallons of gas used to fill up tank; c=mpg
a/b=c
ex: a=287.9 miles/b=10.7 gallons=c=26.9mpg
#22
Originally Posted by emiller
Gallons: This is the amount of gas required to refill the tank. You should lock the gas pump handle and let it shut off automatically. Then, do not top off the tank. True, each gas pump will shut off at a slightly different level. But there is no other way to verify that you have a full tank of gas. Later, you will be able to average the miles per gallon readings you get to find the lifetime average.
From edmunds.com
From edmunds.com
The car parked in my driveway with 234,000 miles on it was set up in such a way that doing as you say above would net me a full 100 miles less per tank than topping it off. Was that tank full at the first click off? Thats 3+ gallons.
#23
Senior Member
Music City Scions
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
Originally Posted by jamesgang
Originally Posted by emiller
Gallons: This is the amount of gas required to refill the tank. You should lock the gas pump handle and let it shut off automatically. Then, do not top off the tank. True, each gas pump will shut off at a slightly different level. But there is no other way to verify that you have a full tank of gas. Later, you will be able to average the miles per gallon readings you get to find the lifetime average.
From edmunds.com
From edmunds.com
The car parked in my driveway with 234,000 miles on it was set up in such a way that doing as you say above would net me a full 100 miles less per tank than topping it off. Was that tank full at the first click off? That's 3+ gallons.
In my Econoline van I can squeeze another 8 gallons in it after the initial click. It all depends on tank design.
#24
Originally Posted by jethro_b
Originally Posted by jamesgang
Originally Posted by emiller
Gallons: This is the amount of gas required to refill the tank. You should lock the gas pump handle and let it shut off automatically. Then, do not top off the tank. True, each gas pump will shut off at a slightly different level. But there is no other way to verify that you have a full tank of gas. Later, you will be able to average the miles per gallon readings you get to find the lifetime average.
From edmunds.com
From edmunds.com
The car parked in my driveway with 234,000 miles on it was set up in such a way that doing as you say above would net me a full 100 miles less per tank than topping it off. Was that tank full at the first click off? That's 3+ gallons.
In my Econoline van I can squeeze another 8 gallons in it after the initial click. It all depends on tank design.
I get it. And relying on the 'quirky' shut off of various pump handles will, in no way, give us a reliable/consistent base to calculate mpg. That is, one time you can 7 gallons, the next 8, followed by 6.5
#25
Originally Posted by jamesgang
Those taking the 10,000 gallon average method - better, but only because you are lessoning (not minimizing though) the error of your ways by spreading it out.
I'll bet you dollars to dimes my 38mpg is closer to REAL than your....whatever you claim
I'll bet you dollars to dimes my 38mpg is closer to REAL than your....whatever you claim
Originally Posted by jamesgang
The car parked in my driveway with 234,000 miles on it was set up in such a way that doing as you say above would net me a full 100 miles less per tank than topping it off. Was that tank full at the first click off? Thats 3+ gallons.
Originally Posted by jamesgang
I get it. And relying on the 'quirky' shut off of various pump handles will, in no way, give us a reliable/consistent base to calculate mpg. That is, one time you can 7 gallons, the next 8, followed by 6.5
#26
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Music City Scions
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
WHY is it so hard to understand that you don't need to fill it to the top to get accurate mileage figures. As long as you keep track of TOTAL miles and TOTAL gallons, that is all that's needed PERIOD. The CLICK on the gas pump is NOT part of the equation PERIOD.
#27
If you drive a certian number of miles and you dont fill all the way then how do you plan on figuring out MPG? You will have no idea how much gas you actually used to drive that number of miles. Its just like filling it by adding clicks. If you do 5 clicks 1 time and none another then you didnt fill it to the same amount as you did last time and you will have no idea how much gas you actually used.
#28
Over filling is a bad idea i mean arent you guys and galscar
Buffs? Read you BMW manual and it will tell you overfilling finds its way into the charcoal canister and casues problems with emissions and more! First click and thats it. O wait you dont drive beemers gosh my bad
#29
Originally Posted by OneBadBox
The car parked in my driveway with 234,000 miles on it was set up in such a way that doing as you say above would net me a full 100 miles less per tank than topping it off. Was that tank full at the first click off? Thats 3+ gallons.
Here are my two points;
1. I want an "acurate" mpg reading when I do the calculation. It is as simple as that. The way I do it is as acurate as one can ask. Otherwise, I could just look at the original window sticker.
B. The reason I fill up - top off - is personal. Driving, on average 175 miles per day - living on a border state (higher taxes on one side than the other) - it makes economic sense to top off - it saves time, saves gas, and save dollars. SIMPLE AS THAT.
#30
Originally Posted by jethro_b
WHY is it so hard to understand that you don't need to fill it to the top to get accurate mileage figures. As long as you keep track of TOTAL miles and TOTAL gallons, that is all that's needed PERIOD. The CLICK on the gas pump is NOT part of the equation PERIOD.
#32
Why is it sooo improtant to figure mileage down to the foot????
No matter what the mileage is, when the gage reads E, you have to get more gas.
Just fill it up til the 1st click off, then squeeze in til the next dollar just to keep from having a lot of loose change in your pocket, because change is heavy and will affect your mileage. I also don't drive after a large meal.
If the mileage starts to drop considerably, have the service dept. check it out.
If you squeeze in extra GALLONS at each fill up, you will severly screw up your ODB II sensors. Not covered under warranty like others posted.
No matter what the mileage is, when the gage reads E, you have to get more gas.
Just fill it up til the 1st click off, then squeeze in til the next dollar just to keep from having a lot of loose change in your pocket, because change is heavy and will affect your mileage. I also don't drive after a large meal.
If the mileage starts to drop considerably, have the service dept. check it out.
If you squeeze in extra GALLONS at each fill up, you will severly screw up your ODB II sensors. Not covered under warranty like others posted.
#33
Originally Posted by jamesgang
Originally Posted by OneBadBox
The car parked in my driveway with 234,000 miles on it was set up in such a way that doing as you say above would net me a full 100 miles less per tank than topping it off. Was that tank full at the first click off? Thats 3+ gallons.
1. I want an "acurate" mpg reading when I do the calculation. It is as simple as that. The way I do it is as acurate as one can ask. Otherwise, I could just look at the original window sticker.
B. The reason I fill up - top off - is personal. Driving, on average 175 miles per day - living on a border state (higher taxes on one side than the other) - it makes economic sense to top off - it saves time, saves gas, and save dollars. SIMPLE AS THAT.[/quote]
Finally someone with an actual reason for topping off. I do the same thing because gas usually costs more near my job than near the apartment. Although I dont drive that far or across state lines. I always fill up in Ohio when Im there though for the cheap gas.
#34
Accuracy in mpg vs. possible damage to the charcoal canister/ the environmental impact of spilled fuel/ poor performance due to emission system malfunction/ check engine light for evap system? I'll take a little inaccuracy, especially considering that the odometer has been proven to be inaccurate with stock tires and if you've changed things, then who knows?
I like the idea that we can compare how the xB responds to the pump, shutoff-wise. I don't know if comparing that to "the car in the driveway 234K on it" is as relevant...
I like the idea that we can compare how the xB responds to the pump, shutoff-wise. I don't know if comparing that to "the car in the driveway 234K on it" is as relevant...
#35
Originally Posted by TheScionicMan
Accuracy in mpg vs. possible damage to the charcoal canister/ the environmental impact of spilled fuel/ poor performance due to emission system malfunction/ check engine light for evap system? I'll take a little inaccuracy, especially considering that the odometer has been proven to be inaccurate with stock tires and if you've changed things, then who knows?
I like the idea that we can compare how the xB responds to the pump, shutoff-wise. I don't know if comparing that to "the car in the driveway 234K on it" is as relevant...
I like the idea that we can compare how the xB responds to the pump, shutoff-wise. I don't know if comparing that to "the car in the driveway 234K on it" is as relevant...
I would think 19,000 miles would be time enough to start experiencing these symptoms?????
By the way, I'm not yet ready to ANNOUNCE my 41.264mpg without A/C and minimal highway miles. I'll hold off until repeated a few times. Its supposed to get hot again today - so likely the A/C will be in use.
I'm also doing a little informal test as to the gallons after 'click off'. I'll let you know how that goes.
As far as WHY the need to know the exact mileage to the foot. Maybe its the lesions I've been diagnosed with.
#36
So, what will happen when your mileage does vary?
I like to keep an eye on what I get, but if I get 10 miles less per tank, my world will still keep spinning. Likewise, if I get an extra 10 per tank, it doesn't mean Mom can get that operation.....
Yall must have every other problem in your life under control to be this worried over mileage.
As for when you should notice degraded performance due to cannister contamination, it will flash a code at a very low level because of gov't regs. All mfr's have to meet such strict pollution regs, there is very little wiggle room in the amount of vapors that are allowed a chance to escape into the atmosphere.
The best way to avoid a costly repair to something that has to last 150,000 miles is to not overfill the tank. Not only that, you don't risk the gas splashing out on you or dribbling down the paint job if you don't try to pack the gas in.
I like to keep an eye on what I get, but if I get 10 miles less per tank, my world will still keep spinning. Likewise, if I get an extra 10 per tank, it doesn't mean Mom can get that operation.....
Yall must have every other problem in your life under control to be this worried over mileage.
As for when you should notice degraded performance due to cannister contamination, it will flash a code at a very low level because of gov't regs. All mfr's have to meet such strict pollution regs, there is very little wiggle room in the amount of vapors that are allowed a chance to escape into the atmosphere.
The best way to avoid a costly repair to something that has to last 150,000 miles is to not overfill the tank. Not only that, you don't risk the gas splashing out on you or dribbling down the paint job if you don't try to pack the gas in.
#37
Originally Posted by oldmanatee
So, what will happen when your mileage does vary?
I like to keep an eye on what I get, but if I get 10 miles less per tank, my world will still keep spinning. Likewise, if I get an extra 10 per tank, it doesn't mean Mom can get that operation.....
Yall must have every other problem in your life under control to be this worried over mileage.
As for when you should notice degraded performance due to cannister contamination, it will flash a code at a very low level because of gov't regs. All mfr's have to meet such strict pollution regs, there is very little wiggle room in the amount of vapors that are allowed a chance to escape into the atmosphere.
The best way to avoid a costly repair to something that has to last 150,000 miles is to not overfill the tank. Not only that, you don't risk the gas splashing out on you or dribbling down the paint job if you don't try to pack the gas in.
I like to keep an eye on what I get, but if I get 10 miles less per tank, my world will still keep spinning. Likewise, if I get an extra 10 per tank, it doesn't mean Mom can get that operation.....
Yall must have every other problem in your life under control to be this worried over mileage.
As for when you should notice degraded performance due to cannister contamination, it will flash a code at a very low level because of gov't regs. All mfr's have to meet such strict pollution regs, there is very little wiggle room in the amount of vapors that are allowed a chance to escape into the atmosphere.
The best way to avoid a costly repair to something that has to last 150,000 miles is to not overfill the tank. Not only that, you don't risk the gas splashing out on you or dribbling down the paint job if you don't try to pack the gas in.
Mom already had her operations. Thankfully my Dad was wise enough to buy additional insurance to cover such things.
When will this code flash? Based on what you know about my car - 19,000 miles with all but a couple/three tanks totally topped off! Will an idiot light come on to notify me of degraded performance. Or will I start getting poor gas mileage?
Where are these vapors escaping from again? And do they only escape from the 'topping off gas' but not the 'first click' gas?
I'd really like to see the car, and ALL its parts last 300,000 miles. One-Fifty will be like
#38
Thanks for letting me know that you were joking... I was worried that yall were really serious about this...
Now, for the codes and vapors, the cannister is designed to collect the expansion vapors from when the tank is full and due to external conditions, the vapors expand and due to the EPA regs have to go to a sealed container. IF, and it is a big if, over time, you have accidentally overfilled the tank the vapors and raw gas are vented into the cannister. The charcoal is designed to absorb the vapors, so after time, if raw gas has been vented as well, the cannister will be useless. I don't know how much contamination that requires, but the sensors then throw the code and next time the car is in the shop, the dealer has to by law, make the emission system legal again. In AL, that means he can refuse to release your car until you fix it. I am not sure, but if the code is serious enough, it could put the car in "limp Home" mode... talk about degraded performance!!!
And the ODBII regs are so tight.....It is a fact that ULEV engines are capable of exhausting cleaner air than it takes in.
All I was saying was why take the chance? Gas 'er up, stop at the next dollar, and hit the road...
Now, for the codes and vapors, the cannister is designed to collect the expansion vapors from when the tank is full and due to external conditions, the vapors expand and due to the EPA regs have to go to a sealed container. IF, and it is a big if, over time, you have accidentally overfilled the tank the vapors and raw gas are vented into the cannister. The charcoal is designed to absorb the vapors, so after time, if raw gas has been vented as well, the cannister will be useless. I don't know how much contamination that requires, but the sensors then throw the code and next time the car is in the shop, the dealer has to by law, make the emission system legal again. In AL, that means he can refuse to release your car until you fix it. I am not sure, but if the code is serious enough, it could put the car in "limp Home" mode... talk about degraded performance!!!
And the ODBII regs are so tight.....It is a fact that ULEV engines are capable of exhausting cleaner air than it takes in.
All I was saying was why take the chance? Gas 'er up, stop at the next dollar, and hit the road...