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HELP! Use of clay on paint before waxing

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Old 09-17-2009, 12:45 PM
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Us tC owners, some of us use dish soap to strip wax.

Yesterday, I did my first attempt at clay barring. I wash with car wash soap. Then I followed after with dish soap. I dried off. I spray in sections with prep-spray then I use the clay. I didn't get much off or the dish soap must of taken off some of it already. Only difference I saw; it gave a shine. Then, I polished and waxed. Or I wash my car WAY TOO MUCH FYI, for anyone who wants to try at dish soap? Make sure you park the car within seconds in a garage when you're done washing and dry it. There's no wax which means your car isn't protected.

Pretty much got this...

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Old 09-17-2009, 12:55 PM
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After wash, before clay/cleaner/polish/wax (wet on left)
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After clay/cleaner, polish applied (did a pretty big area)
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After cleaner/polish/wax
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Old 09-17-2009, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CarbonXe
Also since you seem to know what you're talking about. I've managed to restore some color in the hood of my 95 Accord, but there is still a very noticeable blemish. Any recommendations on how to restore the color? I've tried polish, meguiars ColorX (seemed to work the best out of everything), etc.
Got a picture?
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Old 09-17-2009, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Domo
Maybe you should watch this video which was made by Mike Phillips. He is Meguiars top administrator and moderator for there forums, in lame terms..he is a professional.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI
Still wrong he doesn't work for Meguiars anymore. He works for autogeek.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Domo
Also I forgot to mention that you are picking up tiny blemishes and tiny grains of dirt with the clay bar. Your not picking up giant rocks with your clay bar. Clay is simply used to remove these things from your paint that washing cannot do. Also the quick detailer acts as lubricant for the clay allowing it to glide easily along the surface of your car. Remember, claying your ride is a prep process..that means the additional scratches you add during the prep process can be removed with the follow-up.
Just wondering what you think a fine grit sandpaper is? Its not big "rocks" but it will still scratch the sh.it out of your ride.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by seppuku27
Got a picture?
Look up at the first picture. Left side is dry, before any kind of restoring work. Dull color, blemishes, swirls. I got it pretty shiny, but the blemish is still there in the middle of the hood. I'm probably going need a deep cut compound, right? The only cutting I did, was with the Meguiars swirl remover, which I kind of just wanted to try it out. It was only a 3/10 on Meguiars cutting rating, so I knew it wasn't going to be a deep cut.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by seppuku27
Just wondering what you think a fine grit sandpaper is? Its not big "rocks" but it will still scratch the sh.it out of your ride.
just wondering what you think m105 is made of..geez i dont know...could it be 1200 grit sand paper? What is m105 used for? To remove scratches.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CarbonXe
Look up at the first picture. Left side is dry, before any kind of restoring work. Dull color, blemishes, swirls. I got it pretty shiny, but the blemish is still there in the middle of the hood. I'm probably going need a deep cut compound, right? The only cutting I did, was with the Meguiars swirl remover, which I kind of just wanted to try it out. It was only a 3/10 on Meguiars cutting rating, so I knew it wasn't going to be a deep cut.
How were you working it, by hand or DA? I would get some ScrachX 2.0 and use an orange Lake country pad if your using a DA. Be sure to work a small area at a time like a foot by a foot. Honda paint usually is pretty soft so you really don't need a compound for it.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by seppuku27
Still wrong he doesn't work for Meguiars anymore. He works for autogeek.
right that explains why he is still the moderator for the Meguiars forum and even if he does not work there anymore, he still has a lot more extensive knowledge on detailing then you do. His 20+ years of experience vs your 1 or 2 years of outside knowledge.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Domo
just wondering what you think m105 is made of..geez i dont know...could it be 1200 grit sand paper? What is m105 used for? To remove scratches.
Wow how did Megaiars make sand paper into a liquid. M105 is perfect for removing sanding marks from paint and still finish down decent enough.

You even admitted clay bar becomes abrasive when you use it. Did you know they have different aggressive levels of clay bar? A red clay bar from Meguairs will definitely leave behind marring. Clay bar is not just used for prep work. I also use it with there is a stubern bird turd on my paint that quick detailer and a soft MF won't remove. Works great.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CarbonXe
Look up at the first picture. Left side is dry, before any kind of restoring work. Dull color, blemishes, swirls. I got it pretty shiny, but the blemish is still there in the middle of the hood. I'm probably going need a deep cut compound, right? The only cutting I did, was with the Meguiars swirl remover, which I kind of just wanted to try it out. It was only a 3/10 on Meguiars cutting rating, so I knew it wasn't going to be a deep cut.
trust me, pick up some m105 and you wont be disappointed..I can not stress how effective this product is.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by seppuku27

You even admitted clay bar becomes abrasive when you use it. Did you know they have different aggressive levels of clay bar? A red clay bar from Meguairs will definitely leave behind marring. Clay bar is not just used for prep work. I also use it with there is a stubern bird turd on my paint that quick detailer and a soft MF won't remove. Works great.
Prep work can mean a broad range of things. Its primary purpose is to remove crap and what did you do? You removed bird crap. Why do you persist on stating the obvious? If red clay bar leaves marring, then dont use it. And I am guessing you have never touched m105, so you really should not talk about it since you dont have any experience with it. Besides all this, I see you do have a good amount of knowledge on detailing and I will leave it at that.

Last edited by Domo; 09-17-2009 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by seppuku27
How were you working it, by hand or DA? I would get some ScrachX 2.0 and use an orange Lake country pad if your using a DA. Be sure to work a small area at a time like a foot by a foot. Honda paint usually is pretty soft so you really don't need a compound for it.
I was using an orbital buffer. I tried ScratchX, didn't do anything for me. It works great on my tC for small scratchs and scuffs, but doesn't do anything for the swirls/oxidation on the hood.

I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.

Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Domo
right that explains why he is still the moderator for the Meguiars forum and even if he does not work there anymore, he still has a lot more extensive knowledge on detailing then you do. His 20+ years of experience vs your 1 or 2 years of outside knowledge.
I guess you missed the 20+ pages of his leaving on MOL, autogeek, autopia, and a few other ones. Try to stay up.

In that video he said , like I have been saying, its non-abrasive when you start out, but becomes abrasive when it picks up dirt, etc. I guess you never wondered why he says kneed the clay often. The same reason it says "If you drop a piece of clay throw it away".

Everyone gets their feelings hurt so easy on SL.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CarbonXe
I was using an orbital buffer. I tried ScratchX, didn't do anything for me. It works great on my tC for small scratchs and scuffs, but doesn't do anything for the swirls/oxidation on the hood.

I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.

Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
you got the steps right..I wish I could lend you my bottle of M105...I swear it is that worth it.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Domo
If red clay bar leaves marring, then dont use it. And I am guessing you have never touched m105, so you really should not talk about it since you dont have any experience with it. Besides all this, I see you do have a good amount of knowledge on detailing and I will leave it at that.
What makes you think I haven't use M105 are you so great that only you are able to buy it?

The red clay bar is used on really paint paint that would take to long to use the blue or white clay on. Plus when I use red it normally means I will be polishing the surface.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by seppuku27
I guess you missed the 20+ pages of his leaving on MOL, autogeek, autopia, and a few other ones. Try to stay up.

In that video he said , like I have been saying, its non-abrasive when you start out, but becomes abrasive when it picks up dirt, etc. I guess you never wondered why he says kneed the clay often. The same reason it says "If you drop a piece of clay throw it away".

Everyone gets their feelings hurt so easy on SL.
What do you think I said in the previous comments. Read and comprehend it.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by seppuku27
What makes you think I haven't use M105 are you so great that only you are able to buy it?

The red clay bar is used on really paint paint that would take to long to use the blue or white clay on. Plus when I use red it normally means I will be polishing the surface.
In all honesty, have you used the m105? Describe to me how the texture feels?
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by CarbonXe
I was using an orbital buffer. I tried ScratchX, didn't do anything for me. It works great on my tC for small scratchs and scuffs, but doesn't do anything for the swirls/oxidation on the hood.

I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.

Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
The problem is the orbital buffer. It simply doesn't have the power to remove defects. Look into buying either the Flex, G110 or PC 7424XP and some lake country pads. Its the best investment you could make to keep your car looking good.

Remember try the lightest polish then work your way up to a more aggressive polish if need be. Just don't start out with something like M105.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:43 PM
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Im using G110, it is great but eventually you will have to get it replaced because it has some faults.
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