HELP! Use of clay on paint before waxing
#61
Us tC owners, some of us use dish soap to strip wax.
Yesterday, I did my first attempt at clay barring. I wash with car wash soap. Then I followed after with dish soap. I dried off. I spray in sections with prep-spray then I use the clay. I didn't get much off or the dish soap must of taken off some of it already. Only difference I saw; it gave a shine. Then, I polished and waxed. Or I wash my car WAY TOO MUCH FYI, for anyone who wants to try at dish soap? Make sure you park the car within seconds in a garage when you're done washing and dry it. There's no wax which means your car isn't protected.
Pretty much got this...
Yesterday, I did my first attempt at clay barring. I wash with car wash soap. Then I followed after with dish soap. I dried off. I spray in sections with prep-spray then I use the clay. I didn't get much off or the dish soap must of taken off some of it already. Only difference I saw; it gave a shine. Then, I polished and waxed. Or I wash my car WAY TOO MUCH FYI, for anyone who wants to try at dish soap? Make sure you park the car within seconds in a garage when you're done washing and dry it. There's no wax which means your car isn't protected.
Pretty much got this...
Last edited by XPRESSCION; 09-17-2009 at 12:51 PM.
#63
Also since you seem to know what you're talking about. I've managed to restore some color in the hood of my 95 Accord, but there is still a very noticeable blemish. Any recommendations on how to restore the color? I've tried polish, meguiars ColorX (seemed to work the best out of everything), etc.
#64
Maybe you should watch this video which was made by Mike Phillips. He is Meguiars top administrator and moderator for there forums, in lame terms..he is a professional.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI
#65
Also I forgot to mention that you are picking up tiny blemishes and tiny grains of dirt with the clay bar. Your not picking up giant rocks with your clay bar. Clay is simply used to remove these things from your paint that washing cannot do. Also the quick detailer acts as lubricant for the clay allowing it to glide easily along the surface of your car. Remember, claying your ride is a prep process..that means the additional scratches you add during the prep process can be removed with the follow-up.
#66
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Look up at the first picture. Left side is dry, before any kind of restoring work. Dull color, blemishes, swirls. I got it pretty shiny, but the blemish is still there in the middle of the hood. I'm probably going need a deep cut compound, right? The only cutting I did, was with the Meguiars swirl remover, which I kind of just wanted to try it out. It was only a 3/10 on Meguiars cutting rating, so I knew it wasn't going to be a deep cut.
#67
just wondering what you think m105 is made of..geez i dont know...could it be 1200 grit sand paper? What is m105 used for? To remove scratches.
#68
Look up at the first picture. Left side is dry, before any kind of restoring work. Dull color, blemishes, swirls. I got it pretty shiny, but the blemish is still there in the middle of the hood. I'm probably going need a deep cut compound, right? The only cutting I did, was with the Meguiars swirl remover, which I kind of just wanted to try it out. It was only a 3/10 on Meguiars cutting rating, so I knew it wasn't going to be a deep cut.
#69
right that explains why he is still the moderator for the Meguiars forum and even if he does not work there anymore, he still has a lot more extensive knowledge on detailing then you do. His 20+ years of experience vs your 1 or 2 years of outside knowledge.
#70
You even admitted clay bar becomes abrasive when you use it. Did you know they have different aggressive levels of clay bar? A red clay bar from Meguairs will definitely leave behind marring. Clay bar is not just used for prep work. I also use it with there is a stubern bird turd on my paint that quick detailer and a soft MF won't remove. Works great.
#71
Look up at the first picture. Left side is dry, before any kind of restoring work. Dull color, blemishes, swirls. I got it pretty shiny, but the blemish is still there in the middle of the hood. I'm probably going need a deep cut compound, right? The only cutting I did, was with the Meguiars swirl remover, which I kind of just wanted to try it out. It was only a 3/10 on Meguiars cutting rating, so I knew it wasn't going to be a deep cut.
#72
You even admitted clay bar becomes abrasive when you use it. Did you know they have different aggressive levels of clay bar? A red clay bar from Meguairs will definitely leave behind marring. Clay bar is not just used for prep work. I also use it with there is a stubern bird turd on my paint that quick detailer and a soft MF won't remove. Works great.
Last edited by Domo; 09-17-2009 at 07:30 PM.
#73
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I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.
Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
#74
In that video he said , like I have been saying, its non-abrasive when you start out, but becomes abrasive when it picks up dirt, etc. I guess you never wondered why he says kneed the clay often. The same reason it says "If you drop a piece of clay throw it away".
Everyone gets their feelings hurt so easy on SL.
#75
I was using an orbital buffer. I tried ScratchX, didn't do anything for me. It works great on my tC for small scratchs and scuffs, but doesn't do anything for the swirls/oxidation on the hood.
I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.
Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.
Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
#76
If red clay bar leaves marring, then dont use it. And I am guessing you have never touched m105, so you really should not talk about it since you dont have any experience with it. Besides all this, I see you do have a good amount of knowledge on detailing and I will leave it at that.
The red clay bar is used on really paint paint that would take to long to use the blue or white clay on. Plus when I use red it normally means I will be polishing the surface.
#77
I guess you missed the 20+ pages of his leaving on MOL, autogeek, autopia, and a few other ones. Try to stay up.
In that video he said , like I have been saying, its non-abrasive when you start out, but becomes abrasive when it picks up dirt, etc. I guess you never wondered why he says kneed the clay often. The same reason it says "If you drop a piece of clay throw it away".
Everyone gets their feelings hurt so easy on SL.
In that video he said , like I have been saying, its non-abrasive when you start out, but becomes abrasive when it picks up dirt, etc. I guess you never wondered why he says kneed the clay often. The same reason it says "If you drop a piece of clay throw it away".
Everyone gets their feelings hurt so easy on SL.
#78
In all honesty, have you used the m105? Describe to me how the texture feels?
#79
I was using an orbital buffer. I tried ScratchX, didn't do anything for me. It works great on my tC for small scratchs and scuffs, but doesn't do anything for the swirls/oxidation on the hood.
I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.
Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
I don't think I need something as strong as 105. I was thinking of trying out the heavy cut cleaner.
Also, to clarify that I'm doing things in the right order...Wash, clay, paint cleaner (in this case, the heavy cut cleaner, M4), polish, wax...right?
Remember try the lightest polish then work your way up to a more aggressive polish if need be. Just don't start out with something like M105.