seppuku27

Its thick and has a little gritty feel to it. I seriously don't know why you keep recommending something that is 30 dollars for a big bottle that he most likely won't ever use before it goes bad. He can get a smaller/cheaper bottle of the OTC stuff and be just as happy. Another thing that is wrong is your advising him to use the most aggressive product out there when his real problem is the buffer he is using.

Domo

iTrader: (3)

I dont think the buffer is the problem. It has been debated many times whether hand vs buffer is better. It mainly comes down to the solution. I think m105 is worth it on every level. It gets the job done at an efficient rate. I have used the Meguiars Scratch X 2.0. Good product but just doesnt cut it for me. It takes me an 1 hour to 2 hours to detail my hatch with scratch X but with m105 it takes me 30 minutes. Also your advising him on upgrading to a new buffer which cost more then 30 bucks.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

If I use the M105, should I follow with a fine cut before polishing?

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

I have a rotary buffer also, but didn't have any pads for it.

seppuku27

He's using an ORBITAL buffer thats completly different than by the DA buffer you have aka G110. Everyone knows by DA or rotary is the only way to go. You can work by hand but it takes longer and takes alot more out of you. I have done cars by hand and it takes me twice as long as it would with a DA buffer.

You can also change your pad so you get more or less cut. Do you inspect your work under lights?

seppuku27

Do you know how to use the rotary buffer? If not just get a DA and buy a junk yard hood to practice on with the rotary.

To finish down correctly you would need M205 if you are going to be using M105. M205 would be the polishing step then you would wax after done with that.

Domo

iTrader: (3)

I wouldnt say you NEED M205. In my opinion this product is overrated and not worth the money. I have it and regret buying it.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

Yes i know how to use it, and this car pretty much is my practice car lol.

seppuku27

Maybe your not using it correctly. How are you using it with what pad and speed? Are you priming the pad?

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

I followed no ones instructions and went to town with my current products. I used swirl remover, scratch x 2.0, Ice clay stuff and Deep Crystal carbauna wax. I figured I might as well use some of my products. It made a HUGE difference. I cleaned it first, then used Scratch X. That made an improvement, then I switched to swirl remover, and that made an even bigger improvement. Every time I did another section, the rest of the hood looked like crap compared to the section I just did. Then when I used that liquid clay trash and washed it off with water. After it dried, the hood looked like crap again, so I said ____ it, used the wax and when I took it off, the hood was a nice deep black and looked wet. The blemish is still somewhat there, but it's even better. I didn't even use a standalone polish and the hood looks pretty deep.

Pics in a little bit.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

Alright.

I decided to actually tape off sections so I could see the improvements as I went along.

This is after using Scratch X2.0 with an orbital buffer and a terry cloth applicator. As you can see, there are still TONS of swirl marks, but those aren't my concern right now, the massive fading is. The Scratch X helped a lot.


This part of the hood wasn't as bad. I decided to switch to Meguiars Swirl Remover. It's a very light cut, so I knew it wasn't going to remove my swirl marks, but I wanted to compare its ability to get rid of the oxidation to the ScratchX. Results are basically the same.


This was the worst part of the hood. It's still pretty bad around the nozzle, because the buffer I use is 10", so nothing was even getting to this part, but the entire hood used to be like that, with the center of the hood much worse.


And the finished product, after waxing. I didn't use any polish or glaze.

Domo

iTrader: (3)

Dorry worry, I can follow directions. I just dont think the results are worth the price.

Domo

iTrader: (3)

Yea your Honda is in pretty bad condition. You can remove 60 percent of the swirl marks with one round of m105. I do not think m105 is too aggressive for your paint. Actually I would say its right in the ball park. You might as well experiment with the m105 since your skipping steps.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

At this point, I don't think I'm going to bother unless the blemish starts to come back again. I'd rather spend the money on some Zaino products.

kidd

Do not use terry clothe!!!

seppuku27

You didn't answer any of my questions. Are you using any kind of lighting to inspect your work?