CX-Racing header
04-09-2009, 06:18 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by Zsanz
throw a cel?
i see this is a shorty tube header ive seen the others have longer pipes before the collector..interested for a dyno shootout /sound clips
i see this is a shorty tube header ive seen the others have longer pipes before the collector..interested for a dyno shootout /sound clips
I'll see about getting a sound clip but I don't know when I'll get on a dyno. This header is very similar to the Megan Racing TC header in this dyno shootout. Results should be similar.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82724
04-13-2009, 05:46 PM
#23
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SCION FRED THIS IS IN RESPONSE TO THE THICKNESS OF THE STAINLESS, ITS ALL 16 GAUGE SS AND THE DOWNPIPE DIAMETER IS 3 INCH, MADE TO MATE DIRECTLY TO THERE 3 " CATBACK EXHAUST SYSTEM,I HAVE THE CATBACK ALREADY AND IT IS NOTHING LIKE THE HEADER IT LOOKS AND SOUNDS AWSUM, ITS A BIT LOUD WITHOUT THE CAP IN THE END BUT IT IS REMOVABLE AND HAS AN ADJUSTABLE SHUTTER . IT FITS PERFECTLY WITHOUT ANY MODIFICATION.WHEN I ASK THEM AT CX WHY THE HEADER IS SO UGLY HE SAID ITS THERE FIRST SERIES AND THEY WERE JUST GOING FOR PERFORMANCE NOT LOOKS
04-14-2009, 03:11 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by mustb3ds
SCION FRED THIS IS IN RESPONSE TO THE THICKNESS OF THE STAINLESS, ITS ALL 16 GAUGE SS AND THE DOWNPIPE DIAMETER IS 3 INCH, MADE TO MATE DIRECTLY TO THERE 3 " CATBACK EXHAUST SYSTEM,I HAVE THE CATBACK ALREADY AND IT IS NOTHING LIKE THE HEADER IT LOOKS AND SOUNDS AWSUM, ITS A BIT LOUD WITHOUT THE CAP IN THE END BUT IT IS REMOVABLE AND HAS AN ADJUSTABLE SHUTTER . IT FITS PERFECTLY WITHOUT ANY MODIFICATION.WHEN I ASK THEM AT CX WHY THE HEADER IS SO UGLY HE SAID ITS THERE FIRST SERIES AND THEY WERE JUST GOING FOR PERFORMANCE NOT LOOKS
Maybe CXR has a new design coming? If so, I'd ask them to use 304 throughout, longer 16ga head tubes into a 2.5" ID 16ga collector, a better welder and try not to warp the head flange so much or machine it flat after welding. I'd gladly pay $100 more if they would make those changes.
04-14-2009, 03:43 AM
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mustb3ds
Will the cat back exhaust work with other axel back systems?
I have the Borla dual and I don't want to give up the look of dual exhaust but I would like to replace the Spipe and resonater.
Will the cat back exhaust work with other axel back systems?
I have the Borla dual and I don't want to give up the look of dual exhaust but I would like to replace the Spipe and resonater.
04-14-2009, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ScionFred
Maybe CXR has a new design coming? If so, I'd ask them to use 304 throughout, longer 16ga head tubes into a 2.5" ID 16ga collector, a better welder and try not to warp the head flange so much or machine it flat after welding. I'd gladly pay $100 more if they would make those changes.
04-14-2009, 05:46 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by FromTheOld
At this point you might as well just get a real header.
dyno run 015 - red - megan racing
dyno run 017 - blue - alphawerks
dyno run 011 - green - oem
dyno run 013 - purple - dc sports
04-14-2009, 01:37 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by ScionFred
Originally Posted by FromTheOld
At this point you might as well just get a real header.
1. Getting a flange that's actually like the stock design and isn't warped to hell. Getting a replacement gasket won't be hard either. Anyways, you have the piece of mind that it seals correctly and properly.
2. Getting good, quality welds. No worries.
3. Getting perfect fitment. Not having to fix crap yourself.
4. Knowing that you're getting power. The CXR probably gives power, but there are no dyno results, there is no proof it even improves anything. Sure, it's got smooth bends, but header design is complicated. How do you know the CXR header doesn't cause negative effects in other parts of the powerband? If it does, it's not well designed cause properly designed headers gain power and do not negatively effect the curve in any part.
5. Getting quality materials. In this case, you're getting quality 304 stainless steel, for ALL parts. Quality between metals vary greatly, and something tells me that the CXR header doesn't have good quality stainless steel, even if it is 304. That's a minor point though.
6. Supporting a company that actually does R&D for our company. Sorry, but CXRacing obviously gets their stuff from China. Not trying to be ignorant about China stuff, cause some of it is okay, but the quality control is terrible and no real thought is put into it. Do you really think CXRacing designed this header from the ground up? He just copied the stock design and did a catalytic converter removal from the looks of it. I bet it's hard for companies to want to do R&D on anything nowadays with all the outsourcing.
Just buy a quality part once, and never worry about it. You're saying that you hope the header lasts a few years. I hope you go turbo or sell the car by then, cause if it doesn't last, what will you do? Buy another header? That doesn't make sense, cause then you end up spending more money then someone who bought a real header. Some people are DIY types because they want to do stuff themselves and tinker with the car. I have no idea what you're trying to do at this point. It just looks like you're trying to cheap out but you're going to end up spending more. You already wasted time cleaning up the CXR header. I'm a "DIY" type too, but I know when it's just not worth it to do it yourself.
Not trying to bash you, but your post about CXR re-designing it, then that post about the dyno results bothered me. I don't care about the dyno results. I care about quality, and you're not going to get quality without spending a bit more money. Is money that scarce that you have to save a few dollars? I'm not saying go get ripped off by a company, but I'm also saying not to be so cheap in buying a piece of crap part. 315 shipped for a Strup Header is great. It's quality, and it's not expensive.
04-14-2009, 06:18 PM
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MADMARX
NOT SURE IF IT WILL WORK WITH BORLA DUAL BUT THE CATBACK IS A 3 PIECE JUST LIKE THE STOCK MINUS THE SCUBA BUT THE LAST SECTION SEEMS TO HAVE THE FLANGE ALMOST AT THE SAME POINT WHERE THE AXEL BACK / YOUR BORLA WOULD BOLT ON MIGHT HAVE TO BE WELDED BUT THATS A CHEAP FIX
I HAVE ALL INTENSIONS OF CUSTOMIZING THE REAR OF THIS PIPE TO DUAL EXHAUST ONCE I PUT ON THE BOMEX KIT
NOT SURE IF IT WILL WORK WITH BORLA DUAL BUT THE CATBACK IS A 3 PIECE JUST LIKE THE STOCK MINUS THE SCUBA BUT THE LAST SECTION SEEMS TO HAVE THE FLANGE ALMOST AT THE SAME POINT WHERE THE AXEL BACK / YOUR BORLA WOULD BOLT ON MIGHT HAVE TO BE WELDED BUT THATS A CHEAP FIX
I HAVE ALL INTENSIONS OF CUSTOMIZING THE REAR OF THIS PIPE TO DUAL EXHAUST ONCE I PUT ON THE BOMEX KIT
04-14-2009, 06:23 PM
#33
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FINALLY
FROM THE OLD
AS FOR A QUALITY HEADER ID PROBABLY GO WITH THE WEAPON R BUT IM JUST A CHEAP OL BASTUD BUT FOR A $110 DOLLARS ON EBAY ITS DEFINATELY WORTH A SHOT I CAN GO THRU 4 FOR THE PRICE OF 1 WR
FROM THE OLD
AS FOR A QUALITY HEADER ID PROBABLY GO WITH THE WEAPON R BUT IM JUST A CHEAP OL BASTUD BUT FOR A $110 DOLLARS ON EBAY ITS DEFINATELY WORTH A SHOT I CAN GO THRU 4 FOR THE PRICE OF 1 WR
04-15-2009, 04:03 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by FromTheOld
You forgot to mention that you had a warped flange, you used up time to clean it up, etc. Also, I think that quality and fitment are worth less than that because I found a Strup Header for 315 shipped @ WSCP. Not really that much more than what you're looking at with your re-designed CXR header you want. Just look around the internet and you'll find good stuff. What you're doing by getting a real header is the following:
1. Getting a flange that's actually like the stock design and isn't warped to hell. Getting a replacement gasket won't be hard either. Anyways, you have the piece of mind that it seals correctly and properly.
2. Getting good, quality welds. No worries.
3. Getting perfect fitment. Not having to fix crap yourself.
4. Knowing that you're getting power. The CXR probably gives power, but there are no dyno results, there is no proof it even improves anything. Sure, it's got smooth bends, but header design is complicated. How do you know the CXR header doesn't cause negative effects in other parts of the powerband? If it does, it's not well designed cause properly designed headers gain power and do not negatively effect the curve in any part.
5. Getting quality materials. In this case, you're getting quality 304 stainless steel, for ALL parts. Quality between metals vary greatly, and something tells me that the CXR header doesn't have good quality stainless steel, even if it is 304. That's a minor point though.
6. Supporting a company that actually does R&D for our company. Sorry, but CXRacing obviously gets their stuff from China. Not trying to be ignorant about China stuff, cause some of it is okay, but the quality control is terrible and no real thought is put into it. Do you really think CXRacing designed this header from the ground up? He just copied the stock design and did a catalytic converter removal from the looks of it. I bet it's hard for companies to want to do R&D on anything nowadays with all the outsourcing.
Just buy a quality part once, and never worry about it. You're saying that you hope the header lasts a few years. I hope you go turbo or sell the car by then, cause if it doesn't last, what will you do? Buy another header? That doesn't make sense, cause then you end up spending more money then someone who bought a real header. Some people are DIY types because they want to do stuff themselves and tinker with the car. I have no idea what you're trying to do at this point. It just looks like you're trying to cheap out but you're going to end up spending more. You already wasted time cleaning up the CXR header. I'm a "DIY" type too, but I know when it's just not worth it to do it yourself.
Not trying to bash you, but your post about CXR re-designing it, then that post about the dyno results bothered me. I don't care about the dyno results. I care about quality, and you're not going to get quality without spending a bit more money. Is money that scarce that you have to save a few dollars? I'm not saying go get ripped off by a company, but I'm also saying not to be so cheap in buying a piece of crap part. 315 shipped for a Strup Header is great. It's quality, and it's not expensive.
1. Getting a flange that's actually like the stock design and isn't warped to hell. Getting a replacement gasket won't be hard either. Anyways, you have the piece of mind that it seals correctly and properly.
2. Getting good, quality welds. No worries.
3. Getting perfect fitment. Not having to fix crap yourself.
4. Knowing that you're getting power. The CXR probably gives power, but there are no dyno results, there is no proof it even improves anything. Sure, it's got smooth bends, but header design is complicated. How do you know the CXR header doesn't cause negative effects in other parts of the powerband? If it does, it's not well designed cause properly designed headers gain power and do not negatively effect the curve in any part.
5. Getting quality materials. In this case, you're getting quality 304 stainless steel, for ALL parts. Quality between metals vary greatly, and something tells me that the CXR header doesn't have good quality stainless steel, even if it is 304. That's a minor point though.
6. Supporting a company that actually does R&D for our company. Sorry, but CXRacing obviously gets their stuff from China. Not trying to be ignorant about China stuff, cause some of it is okay, but the quality control is terrible and no real thought is put into it. Do you really think CXRacing designed this header from the ground up? He just copied the stock design and did a catalytic converter removal from the looks of it. I bet it's hard for companies to want to do R&D on anything nowadays with all the outsourcing.
Just buy a quality part once, and never worry about it. You're saying that you hope the header lasts a few years. I hope you go turbo or sell the car by then, cause if it doesn't last, what will you do? Buy another header? That doesn't make sense, cause then you end up spending more money then someone who bought a real header. Some people are DIY types because they want to do stuff themselves and tinker with the car. I have no idea what you're trying to do at this point. It just looks like you're trying to cheap out but you're going to end up spending more. You already wasted time cleaning up the CXR header. I'm a "DIY" type too, but I know when it's just not worth it to do it yourself.
Not trying to bash you, but your post about CXR re-designing it, then that post about the dyno results bothered me. I don't care about the dyno results. I care about quality, and you're not going to get quality without spending a bit more money. Is money that scarce that you have to save a few dollars? I'm not saying go get ripped off by a company, but I'm also saying not to be so cheap in buying a piece of crap part. 315 shipped for a Strup Header is great. It's quality, and it's not expensive.
2) The CXR welds aren't the prettiest but they appear to have good penetration and thickness. The pipes should break first.
3) The only fitment issue was with the bottom mounting bracket that Strup and W-R don't have. They rely on the head flange welds to support the header and S-pipe. It didn't take very long to bend those brackets a little to bolt up and I like having them there, just like oem.
4) Strup claims 10-12whp but independent testing by Import Tuner showed a gain of only 5whp vs the 7-9 real world whp gained by TC headers from Alphawerks, DC Sport and Megan Racing. How do you know that CXR isn't making a realistic claim with their 5-7whp claim? Just because they don't publish dyno results on their website doesn't necessarily mean that they were lying when they told me they dyno tested their header.
5) Chinese 18-8 304 may not be the best but neither is the 409 used in the oem header and exhaust. As for the flanges being copper/nickel plated mild steel, it's not a big deal to me. 304 welds to mild steel very well, the welds just don't look as pretty as 304 to 304.
6) Good point but I would argue that the bulk of Strup and W-R's R&D consisted of re-desigining a previous header design to fit the XB2. I highly doubt that they spent weeks fabricating and dyno testing different header designs to find the optimal header for our engine and how could they without first knowing what other modifications have been performed? The optimal header for a near-stock engine is going to be quite different from the optimal header for a highly modified engine. Still, I do agree that both the Strup long-tube 4-1 and W-R 4-2-1 designs should work better overall than CXR's shorty 4-1 but as I pointed out previously, the real world hp/torque gains shown in the TC header shootout weren't very significant.
Like I've said before, this experiment may fail and I may end up getting a new header. I'm not willing to wholeheartedly endorse this header without some dyno testing and more time. However, if it fails, I don't really care about the lost time or the paltry $135 spent on it. Obviously you feel differently so you should definitely buy Strup or W-R instead. This CXR header may be a "piece of crap", as you say, but IMHO it's much better than the oem header and only cost $135.
04-15-2009, 04:10 AM
#40
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There's nothing wrong with the CXR header the way it is now IMO. What they do is how they keep the costs down. If you want better quality, I feel that you should go elsewhere for it. I'm pretty sure it's so cheap because it's produced in large amounts very fast with a lot of cost cutting. Higher quality = much greater cost, IMO, for a mass produced product like this.