TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Well, to be sure, worm clamps are tighter, but the wrap really doesn't need that level of tightness. The screwdriver is needed to anchor the lock, whereas I needed long nosed pliers to pull the free end against the lock. I admit it took some concentration (nothing at all like a plastic tie-wrap), but they ultimately did cinch in satisfactorily .

r2d2michael

hmmm this make me want to do this to my weapon r header and s pipe

CIONIDE

iTrader: (1)

The plug on the left isn't worn that much. That little pointy triangle is the shape of the center electrode on a long-life iridium spark plug. Looks like possibly a cheaper replacement plug (cheaper than iridium plugs) on the right.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Really? I presumed that triangular shape was from usage -- never seen an Iridium plug (actually, never seen a worn plug that looked like that either). The traditional and Platinum plugs look like the one on the right. With age, they round and the gap opens in my experience -- I've filed and re-gapped many a traditional plug to restore it to service !

CIONIDE

iTrader: (1)

This is what they look like new. You will note that the tiny .4mm wide tip of the new electrode is gone on your used plugs; so not a bad idea to change them, just not quite as drastic as you originally thought.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SCION...item43a4969c61

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Ahhh! So implication is the gap actually opens quite a bit in getting to the point Roller_Toaster is showing us. That goes hand-in-hand with ScionFred's alert that the opening Iridium gap is hard on the coil packs ! Very interesting! Wonder how frequently one should seriously consider re-gapping Iridium plugs?

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

The iridium plug on the left does look pretty good in the photo but I think you really need to measure tha gap to judge it's wear level. The iridiums I pulled out of my folk's Highlander at 70k looked as good but the gap was well over .050. With all the problems people are having with Scion coil packs I think it prudent to replace plugs earlier or possibly re-gap them if the owner is so inclined.

You are correct. The plug on the right is a cheap, less conductive, less foul resistant nickel/copper plug only good for 30k miles.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Back in the day we used to clean and re-gap plugs all the time vs replacing them. I still have (and use) a 12V cig lighter B&D sand-blasting spark plug cleaner I got ~30 years ago. It made economic sense back when I was running the 'then' state of the art $4 each "Gold Palladium" plugs in my 2-stroke motocross bikes. It might make sense again today with Iridiums. The iridium center electrode may last a long time but the ground strap still erodes away with the miles. If cleaned and re-gapped at 50k iridiums might not only last 100k but provide optimal performance the whole time.

Roller_Toaster

iTrader: (1)

Good to know!

I clean the plugs in my bike and regap them every season unless they are horribly worn down.

TheotherBMan

I would add some fuel injector cleaner real soon. It looks like you're running a bit lean. The plug should be a more grayish brown(unless you're running E-85). I hope you put some never-seize on that first.
If you're going for all out performance, copper is the best but plan on changing them often. Platinum, meh. Iridium conducts electricity very good and lasts way longer (but the electrode is so little)

ByTheWay, If it is(truely)stainless it should be fine and run a little better. Not only does it keep your engine bay cooler it will help keep the heat in longer so exhaust flow is better.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Platinum works way better in my almost 140K Eclipse GSX than copper, and as a result of my saying as much, I get the impression a sizable portion of the DSM community considers me some kind of shill ! However, truth is truth ! Relative to the xB2? No idea ...!

Bosch Platinum

NGK Copper after just six miles


The practical difference? The Platinum pulls nicely under turbo load up my nearby hill, the NGK copper doesn't !

TheotherBMan

I'm talking actual power output for the hardcore. Yes Platinum does outlast copper, I was changing my copper plugs on my EVO 8 every 3000 miles, but I was pumping 28lbs of boost.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's pretty major, I'm probably closer to 14lbs boost max, and I normally apply far less. My experience was simply the NGK copper was not a good fit with my older car, whereas the Platinum is seemingly symbiotic. Perhaps if it were 50+K younger the result would be different (and yes, my base timing was definitely 5 degrees)? In any case, my opinion is that you really don't know what plug will work best in your car until you check it out !

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

FI cleaner won't help a lean condition on our engines. Only a new AFR sensor can do that. If the inj's are dirty and flowing less, the ECU will add pulse width to compensate based on AFR feedback from the primary O2 (AFR sensor). But those plugs look perfectly normal to me anyway. The reddish hue is from gas additives, otherwise they'd be a perfect tan color.

As for copper plugs, they were by far the worst plugs available for all of my 2-stroke motorcycles. They fouled constantly even with pre-mixes as lean as 60:1 with Bel-Ray oil and only gold palladium plugs worked reliably. Platinum and Irdium plugs weren't available then.

When I boosted my XB I tried a set of ND copper plugs and they mis-fired constantly whenever the AFR exceeded 11:1. I swapped in a set of NGK Iridiums and they fire perfectly even at 10:1 and 6 psi boost. JMO but I am defintely not feelin' copper plugs. Although I admit that copper plugs may the the hot ticket for other apps.

Platinum plugs are not recommended for any boost application. I don't recall why but I think it has something to do with the welded platinum tip potentially falling off.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

No offense, but I've also read of that and am satisfied that was a particular situation (they seem to arise with automobiles). The Bosch Platinums work beautifully with my older boosted DSM !