View Poll Results: How much oil does your 2AZ-FE consume?
Voters: 63. You may not vote on this poll
Oil consumption
#21
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
I sincerely believe that w30 will reduce your oil usage. The only thing you might lose is some miniscule reduction in MPG.
Last year I bought my daughter a 97 Geo Prizm with 80k miles on it. I made the mistake of adding 5w20 M1 oil, leftover from when I ran it in my XB. It used about 1 qt every 2k miles but only 1 qt every 5k miles since switching to 5w30 dino.
Last year I bought my daughter a 97 Geo Prizm with 80k miles on it. I made the mistake of adding 5w20 M1 oil, leftover from when I ran it in my XB. It used about 1 qt every 2k miles but only 1 qt every 5k miles since switching to 5w30 dino.
#22
Assuming that you don't have complete service records for the first 86k miles, your present oil consumption could easily be related to poor servicing before you bought it (or not). Another possibility is that TC valve cover. They are not interchangeble, although they are very simiilar. The main purpose of that oil baffle is to prevent oil from being sucked into the engine through the PCV system. Running without it almost certainly is causing some or all of your excess oil consumption. I highly recommend finding a XB VC to replace the TC one. Another potential problem with a TC VC is that the coil packs are also different. I know of one member who cracked a XB coil pack by installing it into a TC VC which takes a slightly shorter coil pack.
I was thinking along the same lines. But unfortunately I cannot find any XB's in the junkyards or online to get another VC. Thanks for your input.
#23
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
You're always welcome and thank you for voting in the poll. 547 views, 21 posts, 10 valid votes and one invalid. UFB...
#24
tell you what, when we pulled my engine apart 2 to 3 days ago we noticed some virtical scratches that you could feel with your nail on the cylinder walls. That is a guaranteed reason why some of you are losing oil are because of those small scratches. A Toyota mechanic of 15 years (master Rank) Told me he has seen this a couple times and will definatly be the cause of burning oil and it will slip through those scratches. Just saying . However if burning a little oil is the worst i have to suffer for a motor that will go 400k easy i can not complain that much. Just need to watch oil level.
#26
As far as the Scratches, its from Running low on oil. Mine are very minimal i barely burn any gas (70k miles on it now) But that is definatly the main reason with our engines why they burn oil. Like i said before if thats the worst, for a motor that will last 400k ill take it.
you are 100% dead on Fred. It will limit your burning by quite a bit going to a thicker oil, and will not hurt anything at all. This is from Toyota Regional, and the Mechanics.
I sincerely believe that w30 will reduce your oil usage. The only thing you might lose is some miniscule reduction in MPG.
#27
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
As far as the Scratches, its from Running low on oil. Mine are very minimal i barely burn any gas (70k miles on it now) But that is definatly the main reason with our engines why they burn oil. Like i said before if thats the worst, for a motor that will last 400k ill take it.
you are 100% dead on Fred. It will limit your burning by quite a bit going to a thicker oil, and will not hurt anything at all. This is from Toyota Regional, and the Mechanics.
#28
I chose <1qt over 5Kmi; however, I have less than 12K on the car. In any case, it's my intention to go 5W-30 with my next oil change (currently running 5W-20 Mobile One). The single most important thing to me is the welfare of my drive-train, any cylinder scratches whatsoever are unacceptable ! Perhaps any delay is a mistake?
#29
I dont lose enough to notice much difference on the dipstick
Mobil 1, 0w20 I had used Castrol EDGE 0w20 once as it used to be much cheaper, at least at that one time i purchased oil.
EDIT: 99k miles
Mobil 1, 0w20 I had used Castrol EDGE 0w20 once as it used to be much cheaper, at least at that one time i purchased oil.
EDIT: 99k miles
Last edited by reaper_700; 02-07-2012 at 06:58 PM. Reason: added mileage
#30
0 / 20 synthetic is where the burning has been happening. Our car calls for 5 / 20 synthetic or regular, why use something thinner than what the car recommends?
Some have no problems using lighter Weight however Some do, all depends on how your cylinder walls are and if you have any grooves =P
Some have no problems using lighter Weight however Some do, all depends on how your cylinder walls are and if you have any grooves =P
#31
I chose <1qt over 5Kmi; however, I have less than 12K on the car. In any case, it's my intention to go 5W-30 with my next oil change (currently running 5W-20 Mobile One). The single most important thing to me is the welfare of my drive-train, any cylinder scratches whatsoever are unacceptable ! Perhaps any delay is a mistake?
#32
Sounds good to me !! Drive-train health is definitely more important to me than absolute MPG. I used to run my Eclipse 4G63 on 5W-30 Mobil One, but as it approaches 130Kmi, I've switched to 10W-30 High Mileage. Most people don't seem to keep cars, but my inclination is to keep them running as long as I reasonably can !
Last edited by TrevorS; 02-08-2012 at 10:59 PM.
#33
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
FYI this poll is not anonymous so everyone can easily see who is casting votes by clicking on the vote #.
Koolbox and youngflier both owe everyone an explanation for why they claim to be burning 1 qt every 1,000 miles. Your claims are absurd and unbelievable without explanation.
Koolbox and youngflier both owe everyone an explanation for why they claim to be burning 1 qt every 1,000 miles. Your claims are absurd and unbelievable without explanation.
#34
i should also at least explain my poll, i was burning 1.5 to 2.5qts every 9,k miles on 0/20 1QT every 9k miles on 5/20. So i use 5/20 or 5/30 now =) As our car does call for 5/20
i wish i could edit, because i should be 1 of those 12.
i wish i could edit, because i should be 1 of those 12.
#35
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
I stumbled across a thread which helps to explain Youngflyer's vote:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...22&postcount=1
Apparently he bought a used TC with a blown supercharger and he states that it "leaks 2 qts between oil changes". That's only 1 qt every 2500 miles but in any case this poll wasn't intended to include abused, worn out used TC's with blown supercharger seals.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...22&postcount=1
Apparently he bought a used TC with a blown supercharger and he states that it "leaks 2 qts between oil changes". That's only 1 qt every 2500 miles but in any case this poll wasn't intended to include abused, worn out used TC's with blown supercharger seals.
#36
0 / 20 synthetic is where the burning has been happening. Our car calls for 5 / 20 synthetic or regular, why use something thinner than what the car recommends?
Some have no problems using lighter Weight however Some do, all depends on how your cylinder walls are and if you have any grooves =P
Some have no problems using lighter Weight however Some do, all depends on how your cylinder walls are and if you have any grooves =P
#37
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
The only difference between synthetic 0w20 and 5w20 is that 0w20 flows ever so slightly better at very cold temperatures making it a good choice for those living above the artic circle. It's also worth noting that 10w30 synthetic actually flows better than conventional 5w20 when cold. Syn 5w20 is actually no better at protecting your engine than 0w20 and won't affect oil consumption.
Also, scratched cylinder bores are not normal wear and have nothing to do with the Toyota TSB for excessive oil consumption. Scratched cylinder walls are caused by dirt, debris, over-heating or oil starvation. This reminds me of when I bought my ebay CAI that was literally full of metal shavings. Had I not thoroughly de-burred and cleaned that intake before installing it I would no doubt have scratched cylinder walls from all those metal shavings getting caught between the pistons, top rings and cyl walls. I did a full write-up of that install but for those who did not read it, I reiterate the necessity of inspecting and cleaning any new intake components before installing them on your car.
Also, scratched cylinder bores are not normal wear and have nothing to do with the Toyota TSB for excessive oil consumption. Scratched cylinder walls are caused by dirt, debris, over-heating or oil starvation. This reminds me of when I bought my ebay CAI that was literally full of metal shavings. Had I not thoroughly de-burred and cleaned that intake before installing it I would no doubt have scratched cylinder walls from all those metal shavings getting caught between the pistons, top rings and cyl walls. I did a full write-up of that install but for those who did not read it, I reiterate the necessity of inspecting and cleaning any new intake components before installing them on your car.
Last edited by ScionFred; 02-09-2012 at 07:55 AM.
#38
maybe for your year, but not for mine =) It strictly says on the oil cap 5/20 hard to miss.
#39
The only difference between synthetic 0w20 and 5w20 is that 0w20 flows ever so slightly better at very cold temperatures making it a good choice for those living above the artic circle. It's also worth noting that 10w30 synthetic actually flows better than conventional 5w20 when cold. Syn 5w20 is actually no better at protecting your engine than 0w20 and won't affect oil consumption.
Also, scratched cylinder bores are not normal wear and have nothing to do with the Toyota TSB for excessive oil consumption. Scratched cylinder walls are caused by dirt, debris, over-heating or oil starvation. This reminds me of when I bought my ebay CAI that was literally full of metal shavings. Had I not thoroughly de-burred and cleaned that intake before installing it I would no doubt have scratched cylinder walls from all those metal shavings getting caught between the pistons, top rings and cyl walls. I did a full write-up of that install but for those who did not read it, I reiterate the necessity of inspecting and cleaning any new intake components before installing them on your car.
Also, scratched cylinder bores are not normal wear and have nothing to do with the Toyota TSB for excessive oil consumption. Scratched cylinder walls are caused by dirt, debris, over-heating or oil starvation. This reminds me of when I bought my ebay CAI that was literally full of metal shavings. Had I not thoroughly de-burred and cleaned that intake before installing it I would no doubt have scratched cylinder walls from all those metal shavings getting caught between the pistons, top rings and cyl walls. I did a full write-up of that install but for those who did not read it, I reiterate the necessity of inspecting and cleaning any new intake components before installing them on your car.