TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

The conversation is good ! I may not have the heavy duty needs, but the opportunity to learn is always appreciated. And thanks for responding to my hopelessly Joe Blow needs ! On the other hand, I could possibly apply it to my Turbo Eclipse, however, it's 129K clock tends to dictate the "High Mileage" side of the Mobil One synthetic oil spectrum. I expect to be running 10W-30 HM.

In any case, thanks for an interesting thread !

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

If I'm an oil nerd, you're an oil super geek! That's great info. I had no idea that different brands varied that much within the same viscosity ratings. I'm liking what I see with the RL 5w30 and very surprised to see M1 5w30 outperforming M1 10w30. I thought you had transposed some numbers but you didn't. It's very unexpected see a 5w30 with higher flashpoint and viscosity ratings than a 10w30 from the same supplier. Even the HTHS is too close to matter. Based on those values, M1 5w30 is better than M1 10w30, RL 5w20 is very close and RL 5w30 beats them all.

RL 5w40 looks good but I fear it might be "too thick" for those times when my engine isn't at full temp. I don't presume to know, just guessing. We do get some pretty wide temp swings here in MD spring and fall. It could be 70f in the day and drop into the 30's at night. In a typical year, the temp will range from 20F to 100F.

I can see that you like RL oil, is that pretty common in the oil geek world? I mean, is it generally agreed that RL makes a superior oil to say M1? I might have to switch.

Thanks again, I've learned a lot today.

elwaylite

iTrader: (1)

No problem. Redline is one of the few that actually uses Group IV and Group V base oils, which is why it costs so much. Mobil has been blending GIII, GIV and GV lately to get their oils right. As far as OTC, IMHO, you won't beat Mobil. To be honest, in a passenger vehicle UOA, you'd prob not see any difference between Mobil and RL, but once you start talking about guys like some of us that are driving their engines harder, I just feel better about knowing the protection is there. HTHS matters to me, as well as NOACK and the Viscosity Index. There was a guy on BITOG awhile back (I think it's BuickGN), and they consitently saw lower wear numbers on a high perf engine with an HTHS of 3.3, vs 2.7. Penn Plat and Ultimate are also GIII, which is why they are cheaper. They do clean well, but Im not sure how they handle stress. Castrol Edge, which is expensive, is not worthy of the price (NDA comes in here, but it was tested).

I did a little talking to folks in the know last night, and I'm moving to 5w-30 redline next change, just for some added protection. My cars seeing higher RPM's now and I want be a little safer and worry less about cold starts, especially now that Im living in Bama again (was in Virginia).

Also, I think you are OK with 5w-30, but 40w IS the preferred if you do some racing. Motul 300v was mention by someone, and its good stuff, but maybe not for general street.

If ya wanna see the next new thing, check out http://www.renewablelube.com/ .
Dyson is recommending this to his customers, especially the Direct Ignition engines that are just trashing oils after 3k miles. Complete BIO lube is here, and they handle Fuel dilution better than most normal syns.

Mach-box

You can get Eneos 5w-30 on amazon for 6.99 a qt. with free shipping. Just an FYI.

http://www.amazon.com/ENEOS-5w-30-QT.../dp/B002GI07QQ

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I've learned a lot from this thread. I knew that Redline was good oil but I didn't know just how good it really is. I knew M1 was good oil too but wasn't sure just how good. I wasn't sure about Pennzoil, Castrol or Quaker State but after looking into them, I won't be using them. I already had a jug of M1 10w30 so when I changed my oil today I used it but next change I may switch to Redline. I'm convinced that Redline is better than M1 but not sure that M1 isn't good enough for my use.

It's good to see that as much as things change, some old school rules still apply. We might be able to get 100k+ miles from an engine running formerly unheard of thin oil (0w20) today but there's still no substitute for the greater protection of heavier oil for more severe service.

That Bio Lube is very interesting stuff. I'll probably give it some more time to develop before taking the plunge but I'm very interested. I assume that you meant "direct injection" engines, no?

My remaining concern is this; is it better for me to run 5/10w30 or 10w40 for the best protection? My rudimentary understanding is that MV oils take a thin base oil and add polymers to make it perform more like a heavier oil at higher temps. Race engines tend to destroy the polymers and don't require a MV oil so they run SV oil. It seems to me that it's better to have a heavier base oil than a polymer enhanced high-temp viscosity but of course the base oil viscosity is limited by the temps at which a street-driven engine will be cold-started. Sooo... 5w30 or 10w40???

Mach-Box: Looking at the numbers for Eneos, I'll stick with M1 for < $5 per qt from Walmart. Eneos looks like a very good oil but M1 has better numbers and it's cheaper.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

BTW, I forgot to post this link to a very interesting "History of Engine Oil".

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/engine_oil_history.shtml

Edit: I also forgot to ask about Amsoil's marvelous mystery snake oil. Is it as good as they claim? NDA permitting...

elwaylite

iTrader: (1)

Amsoil's oils are very good, but are not API certified, but neither is Redline. This could cause warranty issue, but toyo would have to prove your engine damage was due to the oil. The API certification is really for the higher ZDDP additives and the emissions system effect. Basically, since they started having to warranty cat's for longer terms, they wanted certain additives limited, because once the vehicle burns oil at a high enough rate, the cat could be come plugged.

Amsoil's XL line, which is a Group III like Pennzoil, and meets API is a very good oil.