elwaylite

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Was just in the process of cutting out the charcoal filter above the air filter and noticed the intake going down towards the fender. I thought "WOW", they actually have a good cool air thought from the factory, then I noticed it loops down and comes back up. WTF?

AndreyCo

keeps the water out?

elwaylite

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Maybe. I mean its not really exposed down there, because it does not go too far down. Im just looking at the OEM intake design and thinking this thing is close to being as good as it could be. I removed the charcoal filter, and am just thinking about buying a drop in AEM Dryflow filter.

Wondering if removing the loop in the intake would allow for slightly cooler air?

elwaylite

iTrader: (1)

Nevermind on the dryflow, they do not make a drop in for our cars

elwaylite

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Well, I got bored (wife is outta town) and did some reading on intakes and then took action.

Removed the loop, so all I have now is the plastic pc tube coming from the bottom of the airbox, which runs down beside the battery, and opens downward. This is taking air from down lower, so maybe it would be cooler, but I decided to take another step.

I read some posts where people bought the TRD intake vent for the bumper, and since I was bored and could not run down the my local TRD store, I popped the sealed one out to see what it looked liked. Looks like crap without, so I staggered some holes with my drill to open up the pc I pulled out and reinstalled. Now, when Im riding down the road, the intake is pulling air from below, and the bumper now has openings there to allow cooler outside air to enter. Regardless of power, the car should def get cooler air now.

Left the battery unhooked for 15 minutes, then hooked it up and let it idle for 5, then ran it around the block with some lead foot action.

User 112921

to answer this, you would actually be drawing in hotter air since youre sucking in the air closer to the engine, it does sound a little better when you slam the gas though

elwaylite

iTrader: (1)

Not much difference. The tube coming out of the airbox heads past the battery towards the fender well, where it makes a downturn and the opening faces down and towards the fender. Then the ribbed hose was connected to that end, it went down like a roller coaster and looped back up, with the intake hole ending a little higher, but basically in the same spot and facing the same way.

That is why I did not understand the whole thing, and why they even had that extra 2 feet of crap.

jnaval

I always wondered that too and thought the same as you! I always wanted to do something about it but I'm on the road to getting an AEM CAI.

AndreyCo

I was thinking of doing something like you did, except to connect the intake tube directly to the bumper. That would require a lot of duct tape.

ScionFred

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I'm pretty sure that the sole purpose of the long looping intake (silencer) hose is to quiet the intake. The first mod I did to my car was to remove that hose. The placement of the remaining airbox intake snorkel is very good, drawing cool air from the fender. IMO it sounds better without the silencer and might even add a little power. OTOH, a real CAI is much better and has been shown to add as much as 8whp over the oem airbox. IMO the biggest problem with the oem airbox is the accordian-style rubber hose between it and the TB. Replacing that with a smooth 2.75" pipe improves airflow.

elwaylite

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I was gonna post after my drive to work this am, but did not have time until now.

I agree with your comment, because the first thing I noticed when I downshifted on the highway this am, was the better sound. More of a lower growl now when it gets into the 4-5k rpm range. I like it.

Dunno about the butt dyno, but I gotta think removing that hose, venting the bumper vent to allow outside air in, and removing the charcoal filter helped the air flow.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Little things can add up and airbox mods are great because they're free. Removing the silencer hose, charcoal filter and venting cold air into the fender should help somewhat. IMO the only remaining restriction with the oem airbox is the rubber flex hose to the TB. Obviously a design compromise to allow easy filter servicing.

There is another good alternative to removing the silencer hose. Re-route it to a location behind the grill or the bumper/fender vent for a quasi-ram air intake. Better yet, add a venturi stack to the intake end for a true ram-air intake. It ain't forced induction but you can raise barometric pressure in the airbox. I'm not sure if a drop-in filter helps or not. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don't. It depends on the relationship between the engine's air requirements and the surface area/restriction of the oem filter. My guess is that the oem pleated paper filter is big enough already to preclude hp gains from a less restrictive filter media such as oiled cotton gauze or AEM's polyester media. Just a guess though, no evidence either way.

User 112921

wait.. i just realized that this thread was in the xb's section so my post might not have made sense

elwaylite

iTrader: (1)

Hehe, I was wondering...

elwaylite

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I still may get an AEM, just undecided on cost vs benefit.

divisii

IMHO, to answer the OP, the loopty-loop is meant to compensate for a curve elsewhere in the system (I think you mean curve, 'cause a loopty is a full circle).

If you believe OEM rationale, they carefully 'tune' the routing of the intake so the airstream is smooth; so intake air and sensor readings are constant.

jnaval

That's a good idea, I'll probably try that before my CAI comes in.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

The AEM CAI is very nice but so is the Tenzo-R for half as much. You could put an AEM filter on the Tenzo and still save money.

The silencer hose is before the airbox, filter, charcoal filter and MAF. IMO the venturi tube right before the MAF is what smooths and straightens airflow across the MAF.

It worked really well on my Dodge Dakota.