ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Live and learn... Plugging in the FIC might have saved you but only because you couldn't drive the car with the mis-wired Boomslang harness!

BTW, I installed my new turbo setup and the custom DP fits perfectly. Everything fit well except the compressor intake pipe which required another 90* coupler and a 4" long pipe to make it work. I'll get pics up soon.

Now teh suck... the car runs great w/o the FIC and like suck with it. Even when the FIC is set for zero changes it still seems to interfere with the O2 sensor, idle goes crazy at times, AFR jumps all over, it breaks up badly at high load and keeps throwing a P0335 code for crk position sensor failure every time it hits high load. (yes, it is wired correctly and has 2.2K resistors installed correctly).

Ironically, while most of the peeps on SL will tell you that boost w/o engine management = FAIL, my previous $1500 CXR kit ran great with 440cc injectors and no management. Now my $4500 managed setup runs like teh suck. If CXR had only used schedule 40 pipe instead of 16ga for the mani, I'd still be enjoying the modest 50whp gain over stock instead of wasting countless hours and money to fix that one fatal flaw in the CXR kit.

Maybe I have one of the numerous faulty FICs that have to be sent back to AEM for testing and repair? Maybe I need to rewire the harness yet again? (intercept this, tap that, test, try again, repeat...) Maybe 2.2k isn't the right resistance for the crk/cam FIC inputs? I don't know and unfortunately neither do Boomslang, AEM or Dezod. World Motorsports/Racing/Descendant claims to have it figured out but isn't sharing any info.

andys09xrs

use the Turbonetics manifold mounts are exactly like cxracing manifold but cast iron if u wanna go back to the cx set up.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I wish I had known that before I spent $2000 for a new mani, DP, turbo, WG, FIC and harness...

At this point I'm committed to see this through. The new turbo setup fits well and all I need to do is get the FIC working properly and tune it. It's exhibiting the same high-load breakup and stutters that prompted the resistor mod for the crk/cam signals. The problem is I already have the resistors installed and tested okay.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Well, here it is finally...









Not much room but my garage made DP fits!



Note that I had to grind away some of the alt bracket to fit the manifold over the studs. More importantly, I had to grind away some metal off the head or the manifold did not fit flush to the head. IIRC there's a TC guy with this mani and exhaust leaks. Maybe this is the reason?



My modified Boomslang harness with new FIC +12V lead going into the fuse panel and tapped to 'EFI No.1'.





My ATC fuse tap modified for a mini fuse. There are better taps but they are too tall and the fuse panel cover won't close.

madmarx

If it is of any conselation. I'm not sure anyone has it figured out. When descendant was working on my car they were finding that what works on one xB dosent work on another. Even after getting my car back I still had to take it to a tuner here in Phoenix. luckily for me Tony at UMS tuning has tuned xB's for TT and Ksport so it only took half a day for him to fix most of the issues with my car. Hope you can find a tuner in your area with the magic touch.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. If all else fails, P-Tuning is pretty close.

How's your tune now? Any codes or remaining issues? Are you happy with your WR kit?

andys09xrs

Looks good just that dp is a tight fit like mine that's why I went with turbonetics manifold

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Where did you find a Turbonetics mani? Did you get your new harness from Boomslang yet? I'm very anxious to see if you have the same crk/cam sensor problems that I'm having.

andys09xrs

I just talk to boomslng ill be here tomorrow. The Mani I got from someone here on s.l I remember another one for sale. I wont be boosted till December.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I like the Treadstone mani except that it really doesn't leave much room for the DP. My MIG'd DP isn't very pretty but it fits great and doesn't leak so I guess I'll stick with what I've got until something breaks.

I'm looking forward to seeing your XRS finished. Please post lots of pics when you can. Good luck.

andys09xrs

that looks like my manifold also and yeah the downpipe space sucks thats why when i saw the other manifold i jump on it.


this is the turbonetics mani exactly like the cxracing but cast iron and it has the wastegate port. i might boost it next week i need to see when i get time to put it together.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I told Kevin (CXR) that he should try to buy the T-netics mold for that mani but he didn't listen. He's not sure how many kits he could sell with a reliable cast mani instead of a thin-wall 304 mani that cracks within a few weeks...

That T-Netics mani looks close enough to use the CXR DP and piping without any changes. That would make the CXR kit worth buying but I have no stake in it. CXR can do as they please.

BTW, I solved my high-rpm misfires/hesitation by removing the 2.2K resistor from the FIC +/- crk inputs. If you have a similar issue, that's your likely fix. Looking forward to seeing your boosted XRS!

madmarx

I cant complain about the WR kit. I have nearly 10k on it now and it only gets better. The only error code issues ive had are random cylinder misfires and those were my own falt. after torquing the spark plugs to 14lbs i have had no error codes (300 miles and counting). I put on the crx 3" exhaust took some cutting and splicing but now it fits well. I also cut up my TRD CAI and im using the maf holder with an AEM dry filter no maf codes. My only issue know is the idle wants to wants to bounce around when the car is hot. It usually stabilizes in about 5 seconds, but occasionally stalls. The idle issue started after doing the intake and exhaust. So im fairly certain it is tune related. I will be taking it back to Tony soon. In the mean time I have played with the fuel and maf map while monitoring stft and nearly have the idle issue solved.

The car is faster than anything I have ever driven except for a 05 corvette. If I give it full throttle in first or second gear the tires just start spinning. I can run it to redline in every gear or at least the first four without anything getting out of wack. I took my foot of at 133, just way to fast for a two lane blacktop. It didn't feal unstable just comon sence kicking in.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. It's good to hear some long term feedback on the WR kit. If you get a chance I'd love to see some pics of your setup with the new air filter.

FWIW, I had the same bouncing idle with z107 and even with z104 when my ltft was negative and the stft capped at +20%. The AFR would go very lean and then start bouncing up and down and so did the rpm. For some reason it seems that the engine needs more fuel at idle when hot.

BTW, I found a problem with that MAF map I sent you. The low rpm clamps were too low and caused some lean bogging on take off from idle. I'll send you a fixed version.

phantomxb

im having the same problem fred with my xb as well boom slang claims they put res but i guess not cause i had my car to the tuner countless times ten different tunes and the same crank shaft position code now at cold start it stutters real bad at 2300 rpm until warm up then it goes away but intermidiate stalling problems churches automotive tuning swears its got to be that code and ive tried the hex 4 and 7 firmware too im not so savvy like you about where to put the res and all . rob at world racing says they take a look at it for 1000 dollars should i give them a shoot or back to stock where it runs great?

coryjames

I think it's the auto tranny cause these are issues I do not have you also need to know your gona have issues with turboing your car it's just the way it is. I can deal with a little checkengine light every ojce in a while the only time I throw a crank code is on cold start my fuel system takes a while to prime also ethonal is harder to syart cold. I wish you guys lived closer so I could tune you guys. Me and colby have mastered the fic along with the ultimate

tainoxl

Its def gotta be an auto issue. Till this date I have never gotten a crank or cam code. Maf code comes around once in a while but i can live with it. Btw, I tried blow through maf setup a lil smother. Just need a new clutch, then to the track and dyno, if this weather ever gives. Hey Cory what size resonator are using, my exhaust is driving me crazy I was thinking of a second muffler or vibrant ultra quiet resonator?

Also what are u guys doing as far as cooling, my temps hover around 192 to 200+ at idle and thats with temps in the 30s. I might try a new thermostat.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

The Boomslang harness definitely has 2.2k resistors installed between crk magi+/- and cam magi +/-. They are near the ECU plugs and wrapped in heatshrink. While this works for most TCs and XBs, there are exceptions. I'm aware of some TCs that had to remove the resistors and a MT 08 TC that runs best with a resistor on the cam and none on the crk. That's what worked best for me.

Try removing the resistor from the crk magi+/-. That eliminated 95% of my 4000+ rpm misfiring and P0335 codes. In fact, it might be THE solution for the AT XB. My O2 sensor went bad and fouled my plugs shortly after I removed the crk resistor. The fouled plugs MAY have been the cause of subsequent high-rpm misfires and maybe even the P0335. I just got disgusted, pulled the harness and FIC and then the weather turned bad. That's why I haven't done any testing lately. I did install new NGK iridium plugs and they work much better than the fouled ND copper plugs ever did.

This is just my opinion but I would not pay WR $1000 to take a look at it. If they have a fix, they can sell you one of their "fixed" Boomslang harnesses for $500 and guarantee it to work or your money-back. That's what I would do. If they won't do that, they don't have a solution. Besides, I heard from a very reliable source that WR sent their harnesses back to Boomslang for repair. Boomslang is still looking for a fix, as are we all.

Hang in there buddy. As soon as the weather improves I have a special harness wired up with 1-10k pots on the crk and cam leads and an oscilloscope. I should be able to tweak the resistance to clean up the sensor signals from the FIC. If not, we're screwed until AEM validates the FIC for our car. They may end up releasing a modified model FIC like they did for some Hondas, Chryslers, etc. to fix the same issues we're having.

If removing your crk resistor doesn't work, there is another option. If you don't have to pull timing, you can re-wire the harness so that it only taps the crk sensor. That would give the FIC the rpm data it needs without intercepting and screwing up the crk signal to the ECU.

Anyway, hang in there and good luck. Keep me posted.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I think you may be right. It seems to affect AT cars much more but it's really a FIC issue. There are TCs that had to remove the resistors, some that had to add them, at least one TC that had to remove one resistor and according to AEM, no one should need those resistors ever. AEM is right too. If the FIC worked as it should, there would be no need to add resistors and they wouldn't need 4 different "UNIVERSAL" FICs to handle different crk and cam sensors. More than one AEM tech has told me that the only car they've seen that actually needed those resistors was a single AT XB1. No one seems to know what's going on and the one guy who claimed to have the solution has been very quiet on the subject lately.

Maybe I'll fly you out for a tune if and when I get rid of these dambed crk sensor problems...

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Refresh my memory, did you tap or intercept the crk and cam ground wires? AEM recommends tapping and that's what Boomslang did. Maybe I should try intercepting them instead. Tapping should be better but whatever works.

Do you still have the CXR exhaust? How's the fit? I'm thinking about replacing my exhaust from the DP back. I want 2.5" but all I can find is that 2.25" ebay kit, the over-priced 2.5" Magnaflow and the 3" CXR. I know I'd need a new resonator or muffler with the CXR. I heard your CXR sound clip and it's too loud for me. Honda guys would love it!

I'm running a Stant 170F stat and it helps a little but I'd rather have a 160F. MadMarx is running the 140F Mishimoto stat and swears by it.