**

 

Congrats! I'm looking forward to pics and a dyno sheet (if possible). Is Descendant tuning it or are you going to try their base tune first?

You didn't mention t-stat or plugs so fwiw the Mishimoto t-stat and 1 step colder NGK Iridium IX plugs are great additions. M1 ATF has also worked great for me but I really can't say with any certainty that it's actually better than Toyota's fuel economy oriented WS.

 

Then why spend all the $$ to go boost ???????

 

What tranny cooler? On the xB1, the Mishimoto doesn't have an integrated oil cooler, had to go stand-alone B&M for my auto turbo.

 

By "base tune" I meant the tune that Descendant refers to as "bolt-on and go" and "turn-key". The reason I asked is that a fellow member tried their tune and it didn't work very well for him. There are members here who mistakenly think that "turn-key" means they don't need a $500 tune on top of the kit cost. Moot point in your case. I'm sure Churches will get it all sorted.

I find it odd that they would recommend stock heat range plugs and 200F+ ECT for 10 psi but maybe they know something that others don't. Do they at least re-gap the plugs for boost? I suppose the tuner can always pull enough timing to compensate for those detonation risks. FWIW, I've lowered my avg ECT from 200F to 170F with the Mishimoto t-stat and stock radiator and it's never exceeded oem ECT levels.

My own theory on the ATF is that Toyota switched to thinner WS solely for better CAFE and that a traditional Dex III viscosity ATF would provide better line pressure and protection. It was just a suggestion. I can't wait to see what 10 psi will do through a 1.8" exhaust. Good luck with everything.

 

I'm sure that between Descendant and Churches they'll know best what you need and don't need. I was just mentioning some things that have worked well for myself and others. TBH I never even tried running the stock t-stat or plugs with boost.

Anyway, welcome to the boosted XB2 club.

 

Interested to see how this works out.

My main reason for wanting to 5 speed swap before turboing is to have the benefit of an LSD.

 

Soflotc had a A/T built from level 10 didnt work out too good from what I remember ended up going M/T

 

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/

Unfortunately I suspect that there may be good reasons why every boosted AT TC I know of who bought a valve body upgrade or built AT from either company has since done a MT swap...

The only boosted AT cars I know of that are still AT are running fairly low boost on stock trannies. If there is anyone out there running more than 300whp/tq through a U241E, I'd love to hear about it.

 

I'm on my second transmission currently, and from what I could tell the weak link wasn't the valve body in the U340E. When the trans started going, it would rev high without much power transfer, basically not building hydraulic pressure. My guess was either the hydraulic pump was failing or the torque convertor had a leak.

The problem started when I had my thermastat go bad and overheat the engine. My thinking is that when the radiator overheated it also cooked the trans. fluid passing through the shared cooler (another reason to go stand-alone). if I were upgrading, I would do the torque convertor first, the aftermarket ones braze the fins inside instead of simple welding.

 

The whole point of the valve body modification was so that the transmission shifts faster. The transmission shifting faster actually helps the transmission not wear out as quickly. Think of it like this (generally): If you feel it, the car probably doesn't

As far as I know, Level 10 and IPT are not the same, so what "build" they do is different. In other cars, I've heard a lot of success stories with IPT, but I don't know much about Level 10. Also, the "build" that IPT does replaces all of the various parts of an automatic transmission. High stall torque converter, clutch packs, valve body modification, etc.

Finally, upgrading to an independant transmission oil cooler is important. The #1 killer of automatic transmissions are heat.

 

Our A/T code is U241E. Talk to IPT and see what they recommend for you. The flip side of a faster shifting VB upgrade is the potential to destroy the clutches from the sudden engagement with more tq than they were designed to handle. Allan Phillips (Allan Phillips Racing) told me how they destroyed a Taco trans very quickly by modifying the ECU for fast, firm shifts. The clutches no longer slipped but the friction surface was ripped off the clutches.

 

Oh, not sure how this helps or anything......but a lot of guys I know have had transmissions built by IPT (not for our Scions though) and they love them. IPT also happens to be 10 minutes away from me....but that doesn't really help you much

 

Can't wait to see how this turns out... I've been dying to turbo my xB but money is definitely a problem lol. Hope to see pics and possibly video soon!

 

Lookin' good Bro! I hope you don't have any issues with the FIC and fwiw you may want to read this TC thread about boosting with a U241E.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-tc-1g-forced-induction-1645/turbocharging-your-t-official-end-all-sticky-74908/

Also know that the 2.5" TRD axle-back actually has a short 1.8-2.0" section where it meets the oem 1.8" mid-pipe. Eventually when you upgrade to larger exhaust you'll want to remove that also.

 

Lord knows I love sleepers! I went to my local drag strip tonight and like the last time it was a blast to have so many people come up and ask WTH I had under the hood! Your build sounds even steathier than mine. You'll surprise a lot of people.

You may not do any exhaust upgrades but if you do, you'll find that your turbo spools much faster, boost builds much faster and the end result is a quicker car. Then again, you may be satisfied with the oem exhaust. FWIW, 3" is optimal for power but very loud and hard to tame. You can run a 2.5" exhaust and still maintain the sleeper theme.

As dead as the XB2 FI section is, I may be as anxious as you are to see your completed build!

 

Thanks Clean XB. I recall reading posts from a guy with a turbo'd A/T TC making close to 300 whp and he had like 2 years on the trans with no problems. I think that most of the guys who blew their autos were beating on them pretty hard. As long as the trans can hold the tq without slipping and you don't beat on it, it should hold up pretty well. Almost everyone told me that I couldn't run boost without a piggyback but 2 years later it still runs like a factory turbo car.

I agree, a boosted XB makes a great family car that's still fun for dad. No one expects much from an XB so it's a great little sleeper. Aside from an occasional trip to the drag strip I rarely ever race anyone. What I enjoy most is simply having the power to climb long hills without downshifting constantly and being able to pass idiots that don't want to be passed on the highways.

I'm looking forward to seeing and hearing more about your boosted family truckster! LOL

 

It's not very hard to change the ~$30 wastegate spring on the car but you wouldn't want to do it often. In your case you can remove the WG which is much easier and less likely that you'll lose any tiny allen bolts or damage the diaphragm. Keep in mind that the WG cap holds pre-load on the spring so be careful when removing it so it doesn't shoot off. Make sure to get a genuine Tial spring. Cheap springs lose their temper from the heat.

 

In for pics and vid!

 

Lookin' good Bro! 230/220 is great for only 4psi. Autos are a PITA to tune. Everything has to remain in balance or the ECU won't shift correctly and on the dyno the auto keeps downshifting below ~4k rpm.

If you don't want to post your dyno sheets could you possibly PM or email them to me? I just want to compare them to mine for my own benefit.

Enjoy the new ride.