Cheapo way of making a quiet ride (UPDATE: Now with DIY!)
#43
Honestly any of them should be fine. I wasn't too concerned about r-values in terms of using the pink insulation as the higher number indicates better capacity at absorbing heat. So any pink insulation combination should be fine. I purchased a r-7 type in several batts and used that to insulate my doors. The sound quality is superb.
What I will be addressing soon (hopefully next week) is the dilemma on the previous page concerning water and possible mold growth. Once I have this settled, I will re-do my doors as necessary and follow up with another video DIY.
What I will be addressing soon (hopefully next week) is the dilemma on the previous page concerning water and possible mold growth. Once I have this settled, I will re-do my doors as necessary and follow up with another video DIY.
also tell me about using saran wrap? i like the cheapness of that. so tell me what your idea for keeping the water our with saran wrap. and i'll do it tomorrow morning. and see how it works. I'm returning the r=13 i just bought and finding the r-7 in the morning.
where did u find the r-7?
#44
so i justfinished the front doors. and hood*
HOW THE ____ DID U GET THAT HOOD PART. seriously i damn near tore open my hands and that padding trying to get in there. there's no system or easy way like everything else on the car.....
Wind/engine noise has died alot i guess i actually liked hearing my engine rev. Sound quality has increased. when i'm outside the car i can still hear it quite well, but i haven't done the rear doors, and maybe i'll add moy insulation later. (not like i'll run out of it soon.
On a side note i was sad, i had new door speakers to install but there was no wiring harness so i have to wait till one comes in the mail. which sucks. but overall good mod. takes work. started at 9:30 ish finished around 12, no breakfast or brakes. (i am slow and the speaker part did hold me up.)
HOW THE ____ DID U GET THAT HOOD PART. seriously i damn near tore open my hands and that padding trying to get in there. there's no system or easy way like everything else on the car.....
Wind/engine noise has died alot i guess i actually liked hearing my engine rev. Sound quality has increased. when i'm outside the car i can still hear it quite well, but i haven't done the rear doors, and maybe i'll add moy insulation later. (not like i'll run out of it soon.
On a side note i was sad, i had new door speakers to install but there was no wiring harness so i have to wait till one comes in the mail. which sucks. but overall good mod. takes work. started at 9:30 ish finished around 12, no breakfast or brakes. (i am slow and the speaker part did hold me up.)
#46
Glad to hear that your installation went well. This is definitely one of those modifications that should take some time, especially since you are disassembling parts of the car and gluing things together.
My take on the saran wrap is that it will definitely water proof the material to prevent it from molding. What I was thinking of using in my box was either that or maybe even a trash bag. I even thought about using the EcoFi carpet squares from earlier in the topic to put against the metal and then follow up with more insulation.
The sound quality has improved in my car and can barely be heard outside on medium volumes. On louder volumes, you can hear it if you move closer to the door and stand near the speaker. Not bad for a stock setup. I'm not really an audiophile, so this setup is pretty much fine for me. I might get more powerful speakers in the future, but it's last on my list.
Yeah... that was definitely one of the harder parts. Once you get the hang of pulling out the locks in the insulation cover, it's not that hard to take it off. When I pulled mine off, I glued down insulation on that. The hardest part was putting it back on, what with the extra thickness. But it compresses well, and since it has a lower r-value, it won't retain as much heat. So it silences my car better and does not interfere with temperatures.
My take on the saran wrap is that it will definitely water proof the material to prevent it from molding. What I was thinking of using in my box was either that or maybe even a trash bag. I even thought about using the EcoFi carpet squares from earlier in the topic to put against the metal and then follow up with more insulation.
The sound quality has improved in my car and can barely be heard outside on medium volumes. On louder volumes, you can hear it if you move closer to the door and stand near the speaker. Not bad for a stock setup. I'm not really an audiophile, so this setup is pretty much fine for me. I might get more powerful speakers in the future, but it's last on my list.
Yeah... that was definitely one of the harder parts. Once you get the hang of pulling out the locks in the insulation cover, it's not that hard to take it off. When I pulled mine off, I glued down insulation on that. The hardest part was putting it back on, what with the extra thickness. But it compresses well, and since it has a lower r-value, it won't retain as much heat. So it silences my car better and does not interfere with temperatures.
as for the wrap. just lay saranwrap over the whole door? or in that section where u pulled up the tar?
#49
What about using Great Stuff foam sealer. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
I have used it to fill gaps near plumbing as it comes up from my crawl space. It is self adhering and water proof.
I have used it to fill gaps near plumbing as it comes up from my crawl space. It is self adhering and water proof.
#51
Great for specific areas, but not something you'd want to use in the doors.
For places like where the kick panels go up to the dash, or A, B & C pillars, it can definitely help reduce resonances and outside noise. The thing is, it requires air to dry, so you have to use it a little at a time in this application. If you just fill a big pillar all at once, the middle inside will never cure, it'll remain a sticky, gooey mess and won't have the desired noise reduction effect.
I've used it for both home & car, was in all the pillars of my old '91 Sentra for about 10yrs, did the job with no issues at all.
For places like where the kick panels go up to the dash, or A, B & C pillars, it can definitely help reduce resonances and outside noise. The thing is, it requires air to dry, so you have to use it a little at a time in this application. If you just fill a big pillar all at once, the middle inside will never cure, it'll remain a sticky, gooey mess and won't have the desired noise reduction effect.
I've used it for both home & car, was in all the pillars of my old '91 Sentra for about 10yrs, did the job with no issues at all.
#52
I have no idea on the cost of the product, but there are DIY expanding foam insulation for sale now. These are pretty much the same products used by professional installation crews to insulate homes. There are spray foam and also injection. Spray foams are usually used at the new construction with care studs amd injection method is used in retrofit situation with drywall already up. I can see both system working well with cars.
I looked up some of the costs, and you can do 205 board foot (12" x 12" x 1") for around $300. Probably not cost effective for one car, but if you're just doing door panels, 205 board foot is probably sufficient to do 3-4 cars, at least.
Once you look deeper, you'll find closed cell and open cell and other variations. While they may be relevant to thermal insulation, for sound insulation, the differences may be negligible.
edited to add: And since these are designed to be injected into wall cavities, you won't have the curing problem another poster mentioned with Great Stuff and those canned foams even if it is never exposed to open air.
I looked up some of the costs, and you can do 205 board foot (12" x 12" x 1") for around $300. Probably not cost effective for one car, but if you're just doing door panels, 205 board foot is probably sufficient to do 3-4 cars, at least.
Once you look deeper, you'll find closed cell and open cell and other variations. While they may be relevant to thermal insulation, for sound insulation, the differences may be negligible.
edited to add: And since these are designed to be injected into wall cavities, you won't have the curing problem another poster mentioned with Great Stuff and those canned foams even if it is never exposed to open air.
#53
For the amount of $ you're talking, people could purchase injectable structural foam made specifically for cars, which not only reduces noise, but actually increases the structural rigidity of the vehicle. Not many people are willing to spend that kind of $ or take noise reduction to that level.
#54
As an instaler I would not recommend putting pink home insulation in your car. There are much better ways of doing this. A short bit of searching and Im sure you will be able to find many other better cheap options.
#56
expanding foam as mentioned previously, there are lots of options similar to dynamat online at discounted prices. im just trying to get across that having home insulation in your car is not a good option. as mentioned before, water does get inside the door panel and the insulation may get soacked and moldy.
#58
its not garunteed you will get odor or mold.. especially not within a few days. but over time it will definately happen. I dont know how you would waterproof the pink insulation. But best of luck to you and if I come up with anything Ill be sure to post it.
#60
I don't have that problem, but then again, I found it necessary to judiciously install eDead when I upgraded my radio and drivers (kept the OE tweeters). My doors come across as very solid.