Component Speaker Installation
10-27-2010 | 03:17 AM
#1
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From: Rochester, NY
Component Speaker Installation
I'm getting ready to buy some new speakers for my car, and am wondering about the difficulty of replacing the tweeters in the sail panels? When I install the crossovers, do I need to install new wiring or can I use the existing wiring that's already in the door? Actually doing the job isn't going to be a problem, I just don't want to get my doors apart only to realize I'm going to need to order new parts. Any help that anybody could offer would be greatly appreciated.
10-28-2010 | 01:03 AM
#2
If you are running an amp, orplan to in the future, you should replace the speaker lines going into the doors to better handle the power. You can use the existing wiring if you want though, just need to route it to the crossover that'll come with the new speakers and then run from that to the seperates.
10-28-2010 | 04:09 AM
#3
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From: Rochester, NY
Great, thanks for the info. I've no intention of running an amp or anything like that, just a bit of an upgrade over stock. I may get the bazooka powered sub at some point, but from what I understand that is pretty much plug and play with the wiring. Now i've just got to figure out what I want to buy lol.
10-28-2010 | 07:20 AM
#4
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From: North San Diego
You can use the same wires and I even used the same plugs with some soldering and stuff. I replaced all the speakers except the Front door mids, they are decent cause they aren't paper and I just tested the tweeter connection to find out the right ones to use and integrated my old crossover for the infinity tweeters I had. Definitely a sound upgrade in the highs. I actually have been considering adding a second amp and rerun all the wires for the mids and tweets instead of running them off the deck, I have the Premier version of the Pioneer navi upgrade from Scion. Sounds good but I think I want a little more mid bass, that I noticed the base factory deck actually had and sounded pretty good.
10-28-2010 | 01:17 PM
#5
If you haven't done so, try putting some sound deading on the inner and out door skins. You'll notice an improvement in your mid-bass response to keep back up with the new tweets.
10-29-2010 | 12:24 AM
#6
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From: Honolulu, HI
I changed out the mids and tweeters with a set of DLS X-Program SA-62s, and put lots of deadening in the doors. Running a TruTechnology S44 amp bridged to the speakers (200W x 2), and they sound GREAT, even all the way up. Most aftermarket speakers won't sound great or get loud unless you've got an amp on them. The head unit just doesn't have enough power (17 or 22W per channel).
10-29-2010 | 01:33 AM
#7
Very true. You should hear mine trying to push the 8's I put in the doors
I've really got to finish the system so I can get my amps running.
10-29-2010 | 09:56 AM
#8
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It's easy putting in aftermarket speakers in, but you'll need to do a little work (well, not that much, really).
1. Tweeters in the mirror sails. You may need to do a some filing to fit them in. If you're really adventurous, get some Bondo and fill in the gap between the new tweeter ring mount and the stock sail, then paint it with paint for plastic (cover the grill with tape and really clean the sail of anything that will prevent a good paint job).
2. Woofers. You will need to make a new baffle to attach the new woofer to the door, and you'll need to drill out the rivets holding on the old speakers on. Nearly any kind of plywood, MDF or hardboard will work: just give it a few good coats of paint to seal it from moisture). Don't need to be real neat, make sure the hole for the woofer is just right. I also recommend foam baffles behind the driver: just cut out the bottom half of the cup, leave the top on to shed any water.
3. Crossover. Lots of places in the door, mine is near the rear of the panel.
4. Wires. Horror stories on this one! Running heavier wire (above 16g) is a pain getting thru the rubber wire boot. Most heavy spkr wire have heavy, thick insulation (unnecessary, they do it for looks) which is very difficult snaking thru the S-shaped boot. Make sure no children or those with sensitive ears are nearby as you attempt this. Have aspirin (it's a headache) and bandages (when your hand slips or you hit the door) ready. Run the wire first to the crossover, then to the drivers. I like to use industrial wire tie anchors, since they stick better, to hold the wires in the door. Get them from shops that cater to the electronics techs, not Home Depot or Radio Shack. Trim your wire ties with a razor blade flush to the box where the wire tie tail comes out (wire cutters leave a the tail a little proud, ready to slash your hand).
Other notes.
Clean out ALL metal chips from drilling/shaping/filing from the bottom inside of the door (prevents rust later on). Work methodically, plan things out on paper first to see any probably problems. Wear kneepads or have a couple layers of carpet to kneel on. Working outside in the sun? Sunscreen; neck and ears. Trust me. 'course this is only true in the summer. Keep only the tools you need right now near you; anything else, put on a table nearby, out of the way.
Stuck with a problem? STOP WORKING! Think it out. Don't rush. No ideas come to mind? You know where we are. We give good bum advice here. Good installing!
1. Tweeters in the mirror sails. You may need to do a some filing to fit them in. If you're really adventurous, get some Bondo and fill in the gap between the new tweeter ring mount and the stock sail, then paint it with paint for plastic (cover the grill with tape and really clean the sail of anything that will prevent a good paint job).
2. Woofers. You will need to make a new baffle to attach the new woofer to the door, and you'll need to drill out the rivets holding on the old speakers on. Nearly any kind of plywood, MDF or hardboard will work: just give it a few good coats of paint to seal it from moisture). Don't need to be real neat, make sure the hole for the woofer is just right. I also recommend foam baffles behind the driver: just cut out the bottom half of the cup, leave the top on to shed any water.
3. Crossover. Lots of places in the door, mine is near the rear of the panel.
4. Wires. Horror stories on this one! Running heavier wire (above 16g) is a pain getting thru the rubber wire boot. Most heavy spkr wire have heavy, thick insulation (unnecessary, they do it for looks) which is very difficult snaking thru the S-shaped boot. Make sure no children or those with sensitive ears are nearby as you attempt this. Have aspirin (it's a headache) and bandages (when your hand slips or you hit the door) ready. Run the wire first to the crossover, then to the drivers. I like to use industrial wire tie anchors, since they stick better, to hold the wires in the door. Get them from shops that cater to the electronics techs, not Home Depot or Radio Shack. Trim your wire ties with a razor blade flush to the box where the wire tie tail comes out (wire cutters leave a the tail a little proud, ready to slash your hand).
Other notes.
Clean out ALL metal chips from drilling/shaping/filing from the bottom inside of the door (prevents rust later on). Work methodically, plan things out on paper first to see any probably problems. Wear kneepads or have a couple layers of carpet to kneel on. Working outside in the sun? Sunscreen; neck and ears. Trust me. 'course this is only true in the summer. Keep only the tools you need right now near you; anything else, put on a table nearby, out of the way.
Stuck with a problem? STOP WORKING! Think it out. Don't rush. No ideas come to mind? You know where we are. We give good bum advice here. Good installing!
10-29-2010 | 09:22 PM
#9
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Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 102
From: Rochester, NY
It's easy putting in aftermarket speakers in, but you'll need to do a little work (well, not that much, really).
1. Tweeters in the mirror sails. You may need to do a some filing to fit them in. If you're really adventurous, get some Bondo and fill in the gap between the new tweeter ring mount and the stock sail, then paint it with paint for plastic (cover the grill with tape and really clean the sail of anything that will prevent a good paint job).
2. Woofers. You will need to make a new baffle to attach the new woofer to the door, and you'll need to drill out the rivets holding on the old speakers on. Nearly any kind of plywood, MDF or hardboard will work: just give it a few good coats of paint to seal it from moisture). Don't need to be real neat, make sure the hole for the woofer is just right. I also recommend foam baffles behind the driver: just cut out the bottom half of the cup, leave the top on to shed any water.
3. Crossover. Lots of places in the door, mine is near the rear of the panel.
4. Wires. Horror stories on this one! Running heavier wire (above 16g) is a pain getting thru the rubber wire boot. Most heavy spkr wire have heavy, thick insulation (unnecessary, they do it for looks) which is very difficult snaking thru the S-shaped boot. Make sure no children or those with sensitive ears are nearby as you attempt this. Have aspirin (it's a headache) and bandages (when your hand slips or you hit the door) ready. Run the wire first to the crossover, then to the drivers. I like to use industrial wire tie anchors, since they stick better, to hold the wires in the door. Get them from shops that cater to the electronics techs, not Home Depot or Radio Shack. Trim your wire ties with a razor blade flush to the box where the wire tie tail comes out (wire cutters leave a the tail a little proud, ready to slash your hand).
Other notes.
Clean out ALL metal chips from drilling/shaping/filing from the bottom inside of the door (prevents rust later on). Work methodically, plan things out on paper first to see any probably problems. Wear kneepads or have a couple layers of carpet to kneel on. Working outside in the sun? Sunscreen; neck and ears. Trust me. 'course this is only true in the summer. Keep only the tools you need right now near you; anything else, put on a table nearby, out of the way.
Stuck with a problem? STOP WORKING! Think it out. Don't rush. No ideas come to mind? You know where we are. We give good bum advice here. Good installing!
1. Tweeters in the mirror sails. You may need to do a some filing to fit them in. If you're really adventurous, get some Bondo and fill in the gap between the new tweeter ring mount and the stock sail, then paint it with paint for plastic (cover the grill with tape and really clean the sail of anything that will prevent a good paint job).
2. Woofers. You will need to make a new baffle to attach the new woofer to the door, and you'll need to drill out the rivets holding on the old speakers on. Nearly any kind of plywood, MDF or hardboard will work: just give it a few good coats of paint to seal it from moisture). Don't need to be real neat, make sure the hole for the woofer is just right. I also recommend foam baffles behind the driver: just cut out the bottom half of the cup, leave the top on to shed any water.
3. Crossover. Lots of places in the door, mine is near the rear of the panel.
4. Wires. Horror stories on this one! Running heavier wire (above 16g) is a pain getting thru the rubber wire boot. Most heavy spkr wire have heavy, thick insulation (unnecessary, they do it for looks) which is very difficult snaking thru the S-shaped boot. Make sure no children or those with sensitive ears are nearby as you attempt this. Have aspirin (it's a headache) and bandages (when your hand slips or you hit the door) ready. Run the wire first to the crossover, then to the drivers. I like to use industrial wire tie anchors, since they stick better, to hold the wires in the door. Get them from shops that cater to the electronics techs, not Home Depot or Radio Shack. Trim your wire ties with a razor blade flush to the box where the wire tie tail comes out (wire cutters leave a the tail a little proud, ready to slash your hand).
Other notes.
Clean out ALL metal chips from drilling/shaping/filing from the bottom inside of the door (prevents rust later on). Work methodically, plan things out on paper first to see any probably problems. Wear kneepads or have a couple layers of carpet to kneel on. Working outside in the sun? Sunscreen; neck and ears. Trust me. 'course this is only true in the summer. Keep only the tools you need right now near you; anything else, put on a table nearby, out of the way.
Stuck with a problem? STOP WORKING! Think it out. Don't rush. No ideas come to mind? You know where we are. We give good bum advice here. Good installing!
10-29-2010 | 09:49 PM
#10
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 42
From: Ogden Utah
It's easy putting in aftermarket speakers in, but you'll need to do a little work (well, not that much, really).
1. Tweeters in the mirror sails. You may need to do a some filing to fit them in. If you're really adventurous, get some Bondo and fill in the gap between the new tweeter ring mount and the stock sail, then paint it with paint for plastic (cover the grill with tape and really clean the sail of anything that will prevent a good paint job).
2. Woofers. You will need to make a new baffle to attach the new woofer to the door, and you'll need to drill out the rivets holding on the old speakers on. Nearly any kind of plywood, MDF or hardboard will work: just give it a few good coats of paint to seal it from moisture). Don't need to be real neat, make sure the hole for the woofer is just right. I also recommend foam baffles behind the driver: just cut out the bottom half of the cup, leave the top on to shed any water.
3. Crossover. Lots of places in the door, mine is near the rear of the panel.
4. Wires. Horror stories on this one! Running heavier wire (above 16g) is a pain getting thru the rubber wire boot. Most heavy spkr wire have heavy, thick insulation (unnecessary, they do it for looks) which is very difficult snaking thru the S-shaped boot. Make sure no children or those with sensitive ears are nearby as you attempt this. Have aspirin (it's a headache) and bandages (when your hand slips or you hit the door) ready. Run the wire first to the crossover, then to the drivers. I like to use industrial wire tie anchors, since they stick better, to hold the wires in the door. Get them from shops that cater to the electronics techs, not Home Depot or Radio Shack. Trim your wire ties with a razor blade flush to the box where the wire tie tail comes out (wire cutters leave a the tail a little proud, ready to slash your hand).
Other notes.
Clean out ALL metal chips from drilling/shaping/filing from the bottom inside of the door (prevents rust later on). Work methodically, plan things out on paper first to see any probably problems. Wear kneepads or have a couple layers of carpet to kneel on. Working outside in the sun? Sunscreen; neck and ears. Trust me. 'course this is only true in the summer. Keep only the tools you need right now near you; anything else, put on a table nearby, out of the way.
Stuck with a problem? STOP WORKING! Think it out. Don't rush. No ideas come to mind? You know where we are. We give good bum advice here. Good installing!
1. Tweeters in the mirror sails. You may need to do a some filing to fit them in. If you're really adventurous, get some Bondo and fill in the gap between the new tweeter ring mount and the stock sail, then paint it with paint for plastic (cover the grill with tape and really clean the sail of anything that will prevent a good paint job).
2. Woofers. You will need to make a new baffle to attach the new woofer to the door, and you'll need to drill out the rivets holding on the old speakers on. Nearly any kind of plywood, MDF or hardboard will work: just give it a few good coats of paint to seal it from moisture). Don't need to be real neat, make sure the hole for the woofer is just right. I also recommend foam baffles behind the driver: just cut out the bottom half of the cup, leave the top on to shed any water.
3. Crossover. Lots of places in the door, mine is near the rear of the panel.
4. Wires. Horror stories on this one! Running heavier wire (above 16g) is a pain getting thru the rubber wire boot. Most heavy spkr wire have heavy, thick insulation (unnecessary, they do it for looks) which is very difficult snaking thru the S-shaped boot. Make sure no children or those with sensitive ears are nearby as you attempt this. Have aspirin (it's a headache) and bandages (when your hand slips or you hit the door) ready. Run the wire first to the crossover, then to the drivers. I like to use industrial wire tie anchors, since they stick better, to hold the wires in the door. Get them from shops that cater to the electronics techs, not Home Depot or Radio Shack. Trim your wire ties with a razor blade flush to the box where the wire tie tail comes out (wire cutters leave a the tail a little proud, ready to slash your hand).
Other notes.
Clean out ALL metal chips from drilling/shaping/filing from the bottom inside of the door (prevents rust later on). Work methodically, plan things out on paper first to see any probably problems. Wear kneepads or have a couple layers of carpet to kneel on. Working outside in the sun? Sunscreen; neck and ears. Trust me. 'course this is only true in the summer. Keep only the tools you need right now near you; anything else, put on a table nearby, out of the way.
Stuck with a problem? STOP WORKING! Think it out. Don't rush. No ideas come to mind? You know where we are. We give good bum advice here. Good installing!
10-29-2010 | 10:46 PM
#11
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Joined: Jan 2008
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