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Possible "factory" High-output alternator?

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Old 12-04-2009, 10:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
I agree, but the alternator positive wire goes directly to the battery to my understanding... Not to the fuse block. There's usually 3 wires on the positive terminal of a battery. One goes to the alternator, the other goes to the starter, and the last one goes to the fuse box.

I could be wrong, though. But I doubt it.
I recently looked at the wiring diagrams in the service manual, and if I recall correctly, the 120amp fusible link (located in the fuse box) is in fact between the alt. positive and battery positive. In the same diagram, I don't recall seeing another wire between them that bypasses the fusible link, so you might want to check the wiring in the service manual yourself, to be sure.

Originally Posted by speakerboy
I thought you had replaced the fusible link from your battery to your fuse box in your car with a straight wire. THAT would be bad - I think we can all agree. The "Big 3" in my experience really has 4 wires:
1. Alt to battery
2. battery to ground
3. alt to ground
4. engine to ground
Yep, that's common, but I actually did it with 3;
1. Alt + to Batt + (with 100amp resettable circuit breaker between them)
2. Alternator body (absolute ground with engine running) to Battery negative
3. Battery negative to chassis ground.
It may be a bit of a nit, but I think it's better to go directly from alt to battery for the negative too. I used the circuit breaker so that if the wiring I added ever had an issue, the 100amp CB would trip, protecting both the 120amp fusible link and the car's wiring. The big 3 bypasses the stock fusible link, so if there's an issue with the big 3 install wiring for those not using a fuse or CB, the result could be very bad.
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Old 12-05-2009, 02:51 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by nodsetse
Yep, that's common, but I actually did it with 3;
1. Alt + to Batt + (with 100amp resettable circuit breaker between them)
2. Alternator body (absolute ground with engine running) to Battery negative
3. Battery negative to chassis ground.
It may be a bit of a nit, but I think it's better to go directly from alt to battery for the negative too. I used the circuit breaker so that if the wiring I added ever had an issue, the 100amp CB would trip, protecting both the 120amp fusible link and the car's wiring. The big 3 bypasses the stock fusible link, so if there's an issue with the big 3 install wiring for those not using a fuse or CB, the result could be very bad.
I would think it would be better to go directly to ground ESPECIALLY from the alternator to avoid a bad ground there and the subsequent alternator whine. I've heard a few comments about these cars and whine, but I don't know if it's a bad install, or poor grounds. I had an Eclipse that used to introduce just a little bit of hiss. Other than that, the head unit sounded awesome.
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:58 PM
  #23  
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Do you really need to upgrade the alternator??
I thought stock alter nator is around 150amp
I'm running a lot of stuff and it's running fine even at the idle..

Here are basically what I'm running
- Kenwood 9140 indash nav
- 37" LCD TV
- PS3
- Amp for all the components (addtional two mid speaker and two high speaker)
- Amp for the two 10" sub
- Plus 15 farad carbon alloy capacitor..

- Also stock battery
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:59 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by LEDmod
Do you really need to upgrade the alternator??
I thought stock alter nator is around 150amp
I'm running a lot of stuff and it's running fine even at the idle..

Here are basically what I'm running
- Kenwood 9140 indash nav
- 37" LCD TV
- PS3
- Amp for all the components (addtional two mid speaker and two high speaker)
- Amp for the two 10" sub
- Plus 15 farad carbon alloy capacitor..

- Also stock battery
OEM alt is 100amp. I have a real 3000watt amplifier that draws quite a bit of current.

So, yes. I do need a larger alternator. Heck, larger than my current 180amp unit would be even better.
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
I was actually going to hit you up on ROE in regards to selling my alt. But I really have no idea what to ask for it.

No real need to if you add the big 3 wire when you add the alternator. I've been running my 180amp alternator with the big 3 upgrade with a REAL 3000watt amplifier for the past 2 years. Absolutely no problems.

I'm sure replacing the fusible link with a larger unit, or even a circuit breaker, could be better. But no real need to.
When you think about it, the car itself will not be pulling any more (or less for that matter) current with a high output alternator than a regular OEM unit. The amplifiers will, hence why they have their own run of wire.
Is your set up for competiton??
There is no way that you need that power for daily listening.
Did you upgrade to high end battery and bigger capacitor??
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:03 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by LEDmod
Is your set up for competiton??
There is no way that you need that power for daily listening.
Did you upgrade to high end battery and bigger capacitor??
I do compete. I can play my setup for extended periods of time with no problems.

I added a second battery (Kinetik HC1800). Capacitors are junk, IMO. No real competitors use them. Extra batteries have a larger reserve capacity.
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