Second amp power and wiring.
#1
Second amp power and wiring.
So, I have been tossing around the idea of adding a second amp for my rear doors and front door speakers. I currently have my premier avic-f90bt running them with just a single amp for my sub woofer. I am not sure what would be the best for powering the second amp, a distribution block in th cab near where the power comes to the sub amp, that is under the passenger front seat. Cause I don't really wanna run another power wire through the fire wall. Or biting the bullet, run a second power wire through the firewall and using a battery terminal that has multiple inputs. Also if I run new speaker wires to the door speakers, what do I do with the factory connection behind the deck, or when I plug in the RCA for front and rear, will the deck automatically switch the power to them? Cause when I installed the deck, it came with the plugs from the place I ordered the deck from to use the factory speaker connections.
Any suggestions and advice will be appreciated.
Any suggestions and advice will be appreciated.
#2
Where the distribution block goes depends on your wire gauge.
1. If the power cable is just enough for one amp, then you'll need to run another cable for the second amp. You'll mount the block in the engine compartment. A larger fuse will be needed at the battery too.
2. If you power cable is heavy enough for both amps, then the block can be mounted inside the car, near the amp locations. A larger fuse will still be needed by the battery.
As for the speaker wires, I'd opt to run new wires to them direct from amp to speaker, especially if you've got aftermarket speakers. 16ga is enough. You'll be tearing into the door (which you've done if you got aftermarkets in). Takes more time, tho'. The factory wires are only 18ga at best.
Turn on power for the new amp can come from your sub amp's turn-on terminal/wire.
1. If the power cable is just enough for one amp, then you'll need to run another cable for the second amp. You'll mount the block in the engine compartment. A larger fuse will be needed at the battery too.
2. If you power cable is heavy enough for both amps, then the block can be mounted inside the car, near the amp locations. A larger fuse will still be needed by the battery.
As for the speaker wires, I'd opt to run new wires to them direct from amp to speaker, especially if you've got aftermarket speakers. 16ga is enough. You'll be tearing into the door (which you've done if you got aftermarkets in). Takes more time, tho'. The factory wires are only 18ga at best.
Turn on power for the new amp can come from your sub amp's turn-on terminal/wire.
#3
You must have at least a 4 gauge amp wire running to the battery to use a d-block for another. I would personally run 0 gauge to the battery and use 4 gauge from the d-block to the amps. Yes..please upgrade you wire to at least 16 or 14 gauge for any aftermarket Mids & tweets. As far as hooking the RCA's to the deck, you could run RCA's from the current amp to the new if it allows or you may need to run another set to the back of the deck if you have multiple RCA's outs. Make sure to connect the Sub amp to the RCA that say rear for fading reasons. Also don't forget the Remote (blue) wire for power turn on.
The best option is to scrap the Mono amp and the 4 channel and purchase a good 5 channel amp that would run your sub and 4 speakers.
Alpine, JL, & Kicker make some pretty amazing units...and most are Digital..so no heat build up.
The best option is to scrap the Mono amp and the 4 channel and purchase a good 5 channel amp that would run your sub and 4 speakers.
Alpine, JL, & Kicker make some pretty amazing units...and most are Digital..so no heat build up.
#4
Thanks guys,
I believe I have 4 gauge wire for the sub amp, it is pretty thick. Right now there is one 35 or 50 amp fuse inline from the battery to the amp in there right now as well. I just wasn't sure whether to run a distribution block or just a larger battery terminal with multiple connections. I would like to buy a 5 channel amp, but the two amps I have right now are nice enough and I am not really looking at sound competition quality so I would rather just stick with the two amps.
I believe I have 4 gauge wire for the sub amp, it is pretty thick. Right now there is one 35 or 50 amp fuse inline from the battery to the amp in there right now as well. I just wasn't sure whether to run a distribution block or just a larger battery terminal with multiple connections. I would like to buy a 5 channel amp, but the two amps I have right now are nice enough and I am not really looking at sound competition quality so I would rather just stick with the two amps.
#6
The big problem of 5 channel amps is size. Is there enough room for them under the seat? For speaker wiring, 16ga is plenty (you won't hear any difference between a 14 and 16 unless your run is 50ft or more). Also, 16 is a whole lot easier to thread thru the body/door boot.
#9
So anyway, I don't think I am going to use the amp I have because I found out it is only 25 watts RMS X 4. I think I would like to be running at least 40 watts RMS, so I am looking at 4 brands of Amps that have the power and size of amp that I want. They are lanzar, pioneer, alpine or memphis audio. Any opinions on any of those brands would help me decide.
#10
Lanzar and pioneer are not my 1st choices as they have unregulated power supplies and in the basic non Stage 4 Pioneer's are a bit dirty too. Alpine and Memphis are great choices as well as Arc Audio, Audison, Boston Mobile (I have), Rockford and Kenwood Excelon. I have the A/D/S PH15 and it's only 55 watts to the 6 channels RMS. I am also using a AudioControl 6XS which has an on board line driver which will clean the sound up and as much as double the signal voltage too. None of the guys in my chapter (OC/SD Scikotics) can believe my speakers have 55 watts as I have the loudest system. A/D/S is considered the cream of the crop of high end car audio. JL Audio and Audison make some great 6 and 4 channel choices.
#11
get a power distribution block.
http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-NANLFB...1557968&sr=8-5
i ran short 0guage to it, and 4 guage to my amps.
I velcoed the block on top the battery.
http://www.amazon.com/DB-Link-NANLFB...1557968&sr=8-5
i ran short 0guage to it, and 4 guage to my amps.
I velcoed the block on top the battery.
NUM NUM, Daddy wants this
#12
Hey, Released,
Do you go to any car gatherings around SD, I'd like to see some of ur set up. I am probably gonna go with an alpine amp. I just running new wires for the door speakers and have to pull the head unit to put in the RCA's. Lol
Do you go to any car gatherings around SD, I'd like to see some of ur set up. I am probably gonna go with an alpine amp. I just running new wires for the door speakers and have to pull the head unit to put in the RCA's. Lol
#13
Well, I am close to narrowing my choices between a couple brands. Alpine and Memphis Audio, a local shop has one of each, but the Alpine is digital and the Memphis is not. I have seen more Memphis amps in show cars, but haven't found any decent reviews or opinions on them over all. Alpine I have heard their digital amps are great for heat, but I am only using it for mids and tweets so I don't think I have to worry too much about heating up. My Sony sub amp never get's too hot and I pound that thing a lot.
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