I got my xB2 on 10/7/07 and so far have 400 miles on it. I plan to let the dealer do the 5k and 10k free oil changes.

After that I plan to do it myself with Mobil 1. I used Mobil 1 in my old SUV every 7500 miles (recommended) with a quality oil filter. Even then the oild still drained pretty clean. If Scion recommends every 5k, then that's what I'm going to do. I just hope it isn't too hard getting to the filter. I never worked on my old civic for that reason. The SUV was cake - just roll under and get to work!

I wonder if the dealer will put in synthetic oil if you ask? I'd hate to do that because I honestly don't trust that they'd do it. But they'd probably charge for it.

 

I know this is a xb2 post but we all have the same engine and i use red line synthetic, rated up to 18,000 miles before it has to be replaced. I change mine every four months because im spoiled but I dont even have to.
Check out red line performance products.

 

My bad, I have a Gen 1 and forget which forum I was under. I still frequent the Gen 2 a lot because I will be trading into one soon.

 

Since ALL 2008 Scions get free 5k and 10k service from the dealers I'm going to do that. Afterward I'll take it somewhere cheaper and use sythetic, Mobil1, QPower, or Castrol Syntec.

http://www.scion.com/#complimentaryMaintenanceService

 

I just did my first change. Here's my experience.

I use ramps, Rhino 12000 pounders. Access to the filter and drain plug were VERY easy. I did remove the splash pan below the front of the motor. It requires removing 7 push pins and 6 bolts, again, very easy. To remove the push pins, use a small flat screwdriver and slowly pry out the middle section about a quarter inch, then the outer flange will come out easily. You can get away with removing only one push pin, and then swinging some of the splash pan down, however, this whole contraption is cheap plastic, and after so many bends, I'm sure it will break off.

The drain plug is 14 mm if memory serves me right. I always replace the crush washer. Cheap 73 cent insurance. Also, with the car on ramps, angled up, the rear facing drain plug ensures the most old oil is removed. Torque the drain plug to 30 lb-ft.

I anticipated the filter being a bear to come off. It wasn't. I also use a filter cap. I believe 67mm is the right size. Factory filter came off fine. I replaced with the Toyota OEM filter. Can buy them online for $4. Tighten 3/4 turn after gasket makes contact with engine.

For the fill, I use Toyota's own 0W-20 full synthetic. 4.5 quarts, and it's reasonable at $4.50 per quart. The part number is 00920-1QT0W-01.

I did the change at 1800 miles, but this is absolutely unnecessary. You can wait until the 6 months or 5000 miles, and your motor will be no worse for wear. Engines, oils, and filters have come a long way. I just enjoy doing it, and get that warm, fuzzy feeling after changing oil. What a nerd.

 

I got my free oil change .right it cost me $26.00 cuz i wanted synthetic. you can get mobil for $21.00 for 5 qt
I wont get another free one . lol just change it your self

i'm going to run amsoil 0w-20 and a 1year filter good for 25,000 miles

 

In response to the comments on the forum:

If changing the oil every 5k, synthetic vs non-synthetic is probably not real important. Using the desired 0W-20 or 5W-20 *is* important. If you take it to a non-dealership shop, make sure they use the right weight. They'll probably default to 5W-30 or 10W-30 which is what most cars use. BTW, was watching a racing show with an interview of a NASCAR driver. He said his team (and the rest as well) run 0W synthetic oil. Good enough for them, good enough for me.

Personally I plan on using Mobil 1. Been using it for 20 years in 4 different cars. Each car has exceeded 100k miles with clean oil between changes (which I did annually) and *without* the varnish buildup I've seen on the dipstick of older cars using conventional oils. Plus synthetic reduces cold startup wear when compared to conventional oil. And true synthetics, like Mobil 1/RedLine, etc. are naturally detergent and don't require as many additives for detergency, stability, or viscosity improvement. So when you buy a quart of oil you get nearly a quart of oil, not a 1/2 qt plus a 1/2 qt of additives.

Royal Purple, Red Line are also good synthetics (but more expensive than Mobil 1). Beware Castrol and other synthetics. They're not true synthetics, chemically built from esters with no ash content. They are more akin to hyper-refined conventional oils. Mobil sued Castrol over the synthetic claim some years back but lost the suit as Castrol was able to prove they their oil met the ASME spec for synthetic oil.

As to oil filters, I don't use the inexpensive Fram filters. I've seen teardowns on the net suggesting that Fram anti-drain back valves (which keep the filter full of oil) are not very effective. Purolator ones are better. I do know that after reading the info on the drainback valves, I switched from Fram to Purolator filters on a car that had startup valve noise and, presto, the valve noise disappeared.

Noticed one poster said to tighten the drain plug to 30 ft-lbs. Should that be *inch-lbs*? 30ft-lbs of torque seems like it would strip out the drain plug or the pan (which I've seen too many shops do). It will certainly completely crush the gasket on the plug.

Last comment - I do intend to change oil myself. 1) Only way to use synthetic cheaply (I buy mine in 5 gal jugs at Walmart); 2) only way to assure that the drain plug is not put in too tightly or the oil filter too tightly. I've had problems removing both after I let any shop, dealer or otherwise, change the oil.

Cheers, and hope for a long-Scion life.

 

Great post. My only comment is that NASCAR teams expect an engine to last for 500-600 miles of very hard use and while 0W synthetic may be good enough for that, I wonder if 0W is the best option for an engine intended to last for ~200,000 miles with 5,000 mile oil-change intervals. Personally I feel more comfortable with 5-20W even if I lose 1hp and 1/2mpg.

I don't know much about synthetic motor oil but I'm assuming that like conventional oil, they use polymers to acheive their multi-viscosity rating. If so, I also like the fact that 5-20W needs fewer polymers (which can cause engine sludge when they break down) to 0-20W.

BTW, does anyone know what real race cars use? F1 that is, for those who might not know...

 

You guys give good info. The drain plug should be tightened to 30 FT-LBS. It really isn't that tight. I would also add that even by going certain dealerships, you're not guarranteed they'll use 5W-20. I know of some that buy 5W-30 in drums, and use it across the board.

As far as oil choice, I think we can all recognize that both will behave as a 20 weight once warm. Many would argue that a 5W-20 would be more sheer stable, but only several UOA's of both oils in this motor would validate that.

 

ELF?

 

I had the dealer try to pull one over on me today, the car was in for its first service. They already hate me because i have pointed out every flaw on the car trying to get it fixed...seems they cannot often reproduce noises...conveniently.

I forgot to put the lug key in the car, and when they tried to rotate the tires, they couldn't find it. They called me and I said skip it and just change the oil for my first service. They told me OK, no problem.

I picked it up today, and the service manager gives me the rundown. He gets to the first service..."We couldn't use one of your free services unless we rotate the tires, so we just changed the oil and found you a coupon...it will be $20."

"I didn't authorize you to do anything I was going to have to pay for; I said to use my first service and you said OK."

"Well we changed the oil, but we cannot use you free service unless the whole service is performed."

"OK...if your point is that I have to pay for the oil change, don't waste your time. I am not paying for it, because I did not authorize any work to my car that I would be charged for, and you therefore cannot legally charge me."

"Well, I guess I'll have to pay for it then."


This is the same place that tried to tell me that they would not give me a rental car while my car was in the body shop fixing blemishes THEY CAUSED. I guess they think they can take advantage of me because I am young...boy are they mistaken.

 

I am opting to do all of my own maintenance. I have heard absolute horror stories about how crappy dealerships can be when it comes to the care of an automobile in their shop.

My father took his 07 vette in for a servicing not too long ago, and decided to have an engine mod done while it was in. The car had to be kept for three days. He dropped in on the folks at the dealership to see how thinsg were going, and to his horror, the mechanics were working on his car with no protective aprons on the fenders, and an old coffee can filled with tools, bolts and other garbage sitting right on top of his paint. People just don't care for other peoples property the way people care for their own. And when you are working on cars day in and day out, it becomes less personal of a thing.

When I was at the dealership, the wack job salesmen crossed his feet while he was standing there talking to me, and kicked the fornt of my car on accident. He didn't even look twice. You think the majority of these clowns are going to be MORE careful in your absence?

Yeah....

I am also not to comfy running a motor 5,000 miles without changing the oil. I know oil and engine technology has advanced since the old days, but 5k is a long time to go without changing your oil, no matter how you slice it.

 

The manual suggests the first oil change at 5,000 miles, and that is when I will perform the first change.

I also own an '05 Honda Element. One of the posts in the forums I frequent states that Honda uses a "special" oil with "special" additives from the factory, and that it should be left in place for the first 5,000 miles so that the engine breaks in properly. Many forum members were very concerned about following this to the letter, which is not what I did. I changed it at 1,000 miles, 5,000 miles, and every 5,000 miles after that. The owner's manual states nothing about this "special" oil. I use Honda oil and filters though.

Regarding my xB, I have decided that I will perform my own oil changes, as I also don't trust the dealership to use the right oil, or to care about my car. I have 3,000 miles on the car, and I plan on performing the first change at 5,000 miles as recommended.

I plan on using OEM filters and Amsoil 0W-20 oil. My understanding is that all 0W-20 oil is synthetic. Amsoil rates this oil to 25,000 mile/1 year change intervals, so I am considering changing oil every 10,000 miles. This is a big step for me, as I am used to changing oil every 3,000 miles in previous vehicles.

 

I just did my first oil change at 4300. I used 4 qts Amsoil 0W-20. Total cost equaled to 42.00 for 5 qts. They claim 25,000 every oil change, however if you do not change you oil every 5000 like scion recommends then your warrenty will be cancled.
I used the toyota certified oil filter which was about a 1/2 inch smaller then the factory installed one. I had a hell of a time removing the damn oil filter. Almost two frustrating hours until I finally gave up and took the damn thing to a local mechanic and asked for assistance and they even had problems! They didnt charge me a dime to remove and replace my filter thou.

recp

5qts Amsoil 42.00...
1 stock toyota oil filter 5.00...
2hours fighting the oil filter...
Ruined a pair of jeans....
The assurance of knowing that nothing harmfull was put into my engine.....PRICELESS

I would never take my car back to the scion dealership. The guys in the servise department a effin a holes!

 

It's not entirely accurate to say that not changing the oil every 5,000 will void the warranty. Should an engine problem arise, Toyota would have to prove that it was oil related, and that the extended drain interval caused the mishap. This is highly unlikely with todays fine synthetic oils. There are extremes though. Going 30,000 miles without changing the oil would probably put you S.O.L. There is a flip side though. By extending the drain intervals while under the warranty period, you might have to put up more of a fight with the dealer and Toyota corporate, should an engine problem arise. Again, that's not to say you would be wrong, just browbeaten.

 

I've personally spoke with two different tech's at two seperate scion dealerships. Both claim that if you do not follow the routine maintenance check list, your warrenty will be voided. Nothing says you have to have the work done at Scion. You can go anywhere you feel comfortable or DIY. Just make sure if you DIY you keep all receipts and a detailed log explaining the work you have done....

On a side note I agree with the whole "If scion cant prove it...then your fine attitude. Honestly thou Scion is a million dollar corporation and Im betting on if they wanted to ____ you they could.

 

I just realized this forum it edited. I tried using the unapropriate "F word" and they changed it to flip. so I hope your all having a great flippin day!

 

Just changed mine at 1400 miles with Amsoil 0W-20. Used Amsoil filter. Oil filter was a _____ to take off.

 

the only reason im bringing it in is so that they fix the creek, adjust the sensitivity of my alarm...the rest is a bonus since im kinda **** about taking care of my car myself...i doubt that i will bring it in for 10k...wanna go synthetic asap

 

What kind of alarm...? Can the Scion Alarms sensitivity be adjusted? I have the Scion alarm and feel like I wasted my money on a blinking light. You literally have to break the window or break open the door in order for the alarm to activate. In my opion that seems a bit drastic and a tad bit late. Whats the point of evan having an alarm, as if I didnt just hear my window break...

sorry for the rant