Guess this isn't very exciting info, but I just today changed my xB2 engine oil and filter -- it was at 5246mi, roughly 4200mi past my one-and-only "freebie" dealership change (the dealer put in 10w30 Mobil One and the "tech" scratched up the driver's side sill !) I hope you can understand my choosing not to give them a second chance to damage my car!)

The change was kind of a pain since I had to remove the passenger side wheel, a splash shield panel adjacent the engine, and an undersized oil filter (in comparison with my previous cars anyway). However, patience does work with the six snaps that secure the engine splash shield and the bottom of the oil filter shield. It took me awhile since I couldn't find a way to remove the little filter. Finally used my largest offset pliers to gradually rotate it far enough to remove by hand. The elapsed mileage from the dealer oil change was 4,200mi and I was surprised how dark the oil was . So it's now got a new filter, 1qt MMO, and 3-1/2 qts Mobile One 5W/20 on board. See if it raises the gas mileage any !

 

You're saying you removed that many components to access the oil filter?

 

I removed the passenger side front wheel, the snap holding up the bottom rear of the forward wheel splash shield (it covers the forward most lower snap of the engine access panel), the four snaps that attach the engine access panel (allowing me to remove it), and the snap holding up the back of the engine compartment shield below the filter. So only two actual "components" were removed, the wheel and the engine access panel, but six snaps. Filter removal would have been easy (as was the drain plug) if it hadn't been so tiny. I'll have to pick up a suitable filter wrench before the next go around.

 

You did a lot of extra work, all you had to remove was one snap holding the flap and it folds back so you can remove the filter. Most of the time its not even there if you toke it to a dealer, they usually razorblade it off.

 

^^x2, and yup, my clip/snap has been missing since the first dealership oil change. Found out about it long ago when I kept hearing the filter access flap scrape the ground going in & out of driveways.

 

Outside of the tiny oil filter, the six snaps really aren't that big a deal -- the center lifts with a middling screwdriver. Yes, jacking that corner (factory jack point) and removing the wheel is a minor pain (one that I've already had to do a number of times -- so it really isn't that big a deal IMO), but the advantage is that you then have easy access to both the drain plug and the filter via the wheel well.

I've read of the flap being cut off, and the hinge starting to crack, and the flap remaining bent down, plus, if the flap is lost, then you lose that splash protection for the engine. Consequently, I'm in favor of keeping it intact, which apparently translates into leaving it alone. There's no need to bend the flap at all with that single bottom snap removed and wheel well access. I just allowed that corner of the bottom shield to flex down and it served as an oil guide for the filter spill into my drain pan during filter removal. I just wiped the oil off it afterward. First car I've had that doesn't require crawling around underneath to change the oil and filter !

 

I just changed my oil today, didn't have to move any access door and only needed a 14 mm wrench. I also didn't have to jack up the car, 1 2x4 was enough to get oil pan under the car and badda bing badda boom

 

Procedure? (I'm imagining driving the front right wheel onto the 2x4 and then attacking underneath by removing the flap snap and bending the flap down .) Are you lowered?

 

1. By MMO, do you mean Magic Mystery Oil? If so, why would you want to put that stuff in your new car? This is not 1932 (the date the products was first on the market)........

2. When I changed my oil, I just drove the front up on ramps and I was able to access the oil filter without taking anything off and using a length-wise cut in half soda bottle to channel the dripping oil from the filter into the used oil container. No need to take a bunch of stuff off the car.

3. What filter was on their when you took it off (small filter you spoke of)? What filter did you put on? I used Mobil1 #M1-103 filters and they are pretty small overal (same one that my WRX took). The smaller filter should be better for oil pressure and with the filter design and sythetic elements it should filter very well. Used them for years without any issues.

 

I spent a lot of time researching it a couple years ago and then started using it in my Eclipse. 5K on the clock is a good point to start IMO. I consider both it and Seafoam Motor Treatment to be excellent products.

The front fascia doesn't clear my ramps. Don't know if the composite ramps at PepBoys would have worked, but $40 just to change the oil seems a bit much. Other possibility was to just jack up the nose, but frankly, removing a wheel is pretty easy (likewise the snaps).

The old filter was Toyota and part of the "freebie" oil change. I have a stack of their filters on my shelf for future changes, but I installed a Mobil1 filter that was part of a deal when I bought the Mobil1 5W/20 oil -- looked pretty much the same as the original. I'm not criticizing the filter's, they're just physically tiny compared to what I'm used to. Just need to find an appropriate wrench for next time .

 

^On another note, I am going with Mobil1 5w30 for hopefully a little better protection/thicker profile. I found Mobil1 to be on the thin side and volumes of testing out there has shown that it shears down pretty quickly, losing a lot of film strength. Some of my cars (Nissan and Honda) have appeared to like it, running well, while all of my Subarus hated it (running horrible). I ended up using it on this car simply because it was readily available down the street versus the stuff I have used in the past that I have to order online (Redline Oils, Motul, Pentosin) and a little less expensive. Seeing as this is not exactly a high performance car and the fact that I drive around 20,000 miles a year, I will probably just stick with the Mobil1 5w30 unless I find some great deals online that bring the price down on the other oils and the associated shipping charges.

 

The OEM oil filter is the Toyota YZZF2, which is the little short one. The YZZF1 is the same diameter, but a little taller and contains more filter media. The oil pressure stays the same, as the inlet & outlet are the same size. I use the F1 just because I figure a little more filter media can't be a bad thing, especially since they are both the same price. It may not make any difference, but my perception is my reality.

 

thats what i do! im lowered on sportlines & i just roll up on a couple 2x4 pieces, bend the plastic thing outta the way, change the filter, drain the oil, fill up with new oil... 20 mins tops done!

 

Really? I understood synthetic carbon chains tended to be slow to break down, though that's probably based on percentages and the consistency of chain length associated with synthetic. I've always used 10W/30 Mobil1 in my 1G Eclipse, but now it's approaching 130K, I've bumped it to 10W/40 "high mileage" -- though the compression is still pretty respectable and it gets decent MPG for a turbo car. You clearly have more experience with the available lubricants than I !

I saw the factory suggested xB2 engine lube is 0W/20 for higher temp climes and 5W/20 for the rest. Since I'm running one quart MMO, I plan on sticking with the 5W/20. The Eclipse seems happy with what I'm running and hopefully, the xB2 will be comfortable as well. Still, I only just made the change and so I've no feedback yet.

I'm running Pennzoil Syncromesh in the Eclipse transaxle and transfer case and Royal Purple in the rear differential. That all feels good, but I don't know what I'll do with the xB2 transaxle yet !

 

I just checked my stack of oil filters and they are YZZF1 -- bought from TRDsparks at a discount shortly after I picked up the car. I presumed them to be original equipment, apparently not !

Sounds good man -- guess I'm just conservative. Don't want to risk losing the splash shield provided by the flap. Keeps my crank pulley etc, nice and clean !

 

No, apparently not... actually better than OEM!!

 

I've been thinking about this myself as well. Not sure with what or if I want to change out the tranny fluid in the xB2. The stock stuff does not seem too bad and any issues I have with the tranny at this point appears to due to the FWD-cable-shifting experience and soft motor mounts more than anything. I want to get one of the stiffer front engine mounts out there, but I am low on funds right now and using what little I have to build a cockpit/driving setup for my Logitech G27 racing wheel/pedals/shifter setup in anticipation of the release of the full Gran Turismo 5 for PS3 in November.

 

well im done on freebie chagnes and i have to change in about a month with winter coming. gonna ramp it up there. where and how much is this filter you talk about cionide? aslo since i now have i/h/e mods any oil you guys would reccomend? i will find an oil pan somewhere

 

This is the place I bought mine, $38 for 10 filters with free shipping & no sales tax. Beats $5.40 each + tax at the local dealership.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-O...Q5fAccessories

 

Have you adjusted your clutch pedal height yet? If not, it's a freebie and it really makes a difference in shift feel.

PS. My stock transaxle fluid is fine so far too, though "so far" is only about 5K for me !