So two questions.

I was searching on fastscions.com

Found this http://www.fastscions.com/Scion-2AZF...cer-tC-xB.aspx

Which looks like a simple mod i might be able to do...I think. but i wanted some OP's. If doing a TB spacer increased mpg by 3. then you would think everyone would have done one by now. same with this pulley. unless this is fairly new. for 150.. what they claim seems pretty modest. also fuel rails on a N/A car like mine? bad idea or not. or is it one of those ....wtf frozone really? things.

2nd.
Also so i have my tenzo CAI. iiiii wanta new filter.
http://www.nlmotoring.com/Tenzo-Cold.../tcas2008x.htm

Thats what i have.

So i was looking at these 2
http://www.nlmotoring.com/Tenzo-R-Bl.../taf1000bk.htm
I like the look of that cause its an open cone now. which should mean easier cleaning. also with that hole. i can SUUUUUCK more air no?

Second was this
http://www.nlmotoring.com/ProductDet...e=AEM-21-201DK

now apparently you dont ever oil it...ok. I never found oiling a pan but sure. still thisi s almost 20 dollars more and its not an open tube like the Tenzo one.

So if you take out the cleaning aspect. Which one should be more effective. I imagine the tenzo having more ways to bring in the air. would make it a better choice but possible i may be wrong.

Thanks in advance!

 

i was the r&d car for the spacer and crank pulley from fastscions and the throttle body spacer and crank pulley have been great since day 1, i did slightly notice the increase in gas mileage and as far as performance it's wasn't really noticeable with the spacer alone but with the crank pulley it was a different story. i'd recomend the HOB combo and also NST's water-pump and alternator pulleys. yes upgrading the fuel rail on your n/a xB2 is crazy because your sending more fuel when your car doesn't need more fuel as it is.

as for the filters, it's funny how you mention fastscions.com and nlmotoring.com as both are my #1 go to shops out here in socal lol. if you already have a tenzo intake then why don't you just clean the filter and save yourself some money as the filter is reuseable, sure you will have to buy the k&n filter cleaner kit but it's only like $12. yes the aem doesn't need to be oiled as i have that filter and just clean it with soap and water and let it dry by itself over night so i am saving myself money in the long run than having to buy a filter cleaning kit. not as far as the difference in both the filter than came with your intake and the other tenzo one, there really isn't any noticeable difference even though 1 can take in more air because the center has an opening but in the end it's not worth the spending but hey it's your car and money and if you want to spend go ahead but i'd just clean the current filter instead and save the money for future mods.

 

As far as the spacer goes, I've heard and read a lot, and none of it's been good.

 

could u elaborate elway??

and thanks acid.-yea I figured that since the AEM is a 5 inch then it might be more effective. I might be going sri soon. so the tenzo one might be a cooler looking one haha. btw do you have a DIY for that pulley/spacer thing. because it has to be something i coudl do on my own without horribly messing up things.

 

Almost every car I've put parts on in the last 10 years, had a TB spacer available. General consensus is they do nothing on a fuel injected vehicle, and save your money. You know my strategy though, buy one and dyno before and after!

 

Oiled cotton gauze filters (K&N, etc.) flow the best but woven polyester filters like AEM filter better, flow almost as well and don't use oil. I'd get the AEM, which is what I did. BTW, the AEM filter will flow much more air than your engine requires. The open end Tenzo may flow more air but you won't benefit from it.

A lite crank pulley is a nice addition but a under drive lite pulley adds more HP. Check out NST.

TB spacers can sometimes help with air/fuel atomization on carbed or TB injected apps. They serve no purpose whatsoever on a port or direct-injected app and probably do more harm than good.

 

thanks guys! I wasn't sure how a tb spacer would help with MPG. and yea the pulleys i heard were a good idea.
my question on the aem is if you dont oil it. how you clean it.

 

You simply wash, rinse and dry the AEM.

 

Yeah, same with W-R. I just don't like oil filters, but thats me.

 

Why go short ram?

I really doubt you would see any benefit from it. Just my two pesos.

 

Who said anything about a short ram?

 

SRI>CAI
You don't gain ____ from a stupid filter anyways, it's just a matter of sound, and trust me you don't want to drive with a CAI on a rainy day/night.
Better be safe than sorry.

 

Greek is right... the little gain you make will be lost. You're pulling hot air off the engine and tranny.

LOL prefilters are your friends.

http://www.racinglab.com/injen-hydro...re-filter.html

but if you submerge the filter its game over anywho.

 

Granted i live in a hilly area. But with winter coming and i drift my car in the snow n drive alot. its cold up here. so whether its CAI or SRI its gonna get some cold air. I was thinking SRI just cause its easier to clean. (i hate scratching up my damn intake.) I would get a pre filter...but honestly if im in a position where there is THAT much water. im fcuked anyways.

So basically. im going to look on finding a way to do the NST pulleys on my own. (no dough to pay someone)
Gonna try sri! haven't heard it like that yet.

 

Fixed that for ya!

I am truly sorry about what happend to you but facts are facts.

 

Hehe.

 

luls

 

On a more serious note to those considering switching from CAI to SRI (aka HAI), consider the following points first:

1) In independant dyno testing the AEM CAI was shown to add ~10whp to a 08 XB.
2) SRI's often produce similar dyno results but...
3) During the dyno session the hood is open and a large fan is blowing cool air at the engine and intake filter
4) If you closed the hood and that SRI was sucking in 150F air instead of 80F air, there would be a significant difference in hp and tq.
5) Cooler intake air makes more power (PERIOD)

Obviously there is some risk involved in running a low-mounted CAI but it's really a personal choice as to whether the reward outweighs the risk. I just believe it's important to consider all the facts when making this choice without skewing them to justify your decision.

If anyone has a scan tool I highly suggest that you log your IATs with a CAI and again with a SRI. You might be very surprised at the results. Since adding my turbo kit and re-locating my intake filter to the fenderwell above the fuse panel I've recorded IATs over 150F vs ~100F with a CAI in the front bumper right behind the open bumper vent. The typical SRI would be even worse.

 

I had an Injen CAI which is considered high end. I'm not sure what constitutes a "smart" CAI but I can assure mine was no cheap ____.
A bypass can only hold out so much, if water is evident and your car gets submerged over an extended period of time you're ____ed.

Also to conclude, I felt 0 difference with my CAI, especially no 10whp that is claimed. MAYYYBE 7hp to the crank and MAYYYBE 1-2hp of that gets transferred onto the wheels which is where the difference would be felt.

CAI just offers you a placebo affect and the fact that we own 148whp machines makes it all the worse.

 

I don't disagree Fred, but I think the HP differences are so small to begin with, you wont even notice. Since moving from the TRD to the W-R short ram, I've noticed zero differences, other than it sounds better. Only time I noticed a difference when removing a part, was taking off the unichip. That was immediate in drivability.

So, if going from a CAI to a "HAI" for water purposes is the plan, you really aint gonna notice a difference.