10hp... I dont know fred. 3-4hp seems a lot more plausible.

 

My results on the Dyno with a TRD CAI and Borla axel back (basically no HP help) showed it to be pretty accurate. Im not doubting 8-10 HP from a CAI, because Ive run the test, Im doubting that the hot air loss on a short ram is that big of a deal.

 

Yeah maybe with the exhaust. Short ram is essentially for drag racing not everyday driving. What exactly were your gains? Can you post your dyno runs?

 

The + 10whp claim isn't from a CAI manufacturer, it comes from independent dyno testing by third parties. CAI makers usually claim more. If you add 7BHP you also add ~7WHP. The parasitic drivetrain losses don't increase exponentially as you add BHP.

Independent SL member intake test

Import Tuner AEM CAI test

I do see your point though. Adding 10 whp to 148whp may not be felt in the seat of your pants but if extra power is what you want, every extra 10hp adds up. I also agree that if you drive through deep standing water and submerge a low-mounted CAI, you're screwed. So again, the choice comes down to reward vs risk and your own personal situation.

 

interesting. well i have that unichip...hmm i wondering if running Sri for a lil while would negatively effect that.

 

You might not notice the difference from the seat but I'm quite sure that it can be measured on a dyno or timed acceleration runs. OTOH, it does depend a lot on the weather. While a SRI sucks ballz when it's 90F outside, it's not so bad when it's ~50F outside.

The fact remains that colder, denser air contains more oxygen molecules and when the correct amount of fuel and timing are present, results in greater hp and tq.


See the links I posted above.

 

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=186368


If you go there, you'll see my before and after measurements. Before is TRD CAI and Borla, which gave me 135hp and 136.8 ftlbs at the wheels, in a otherwise stock with an auto tranny.

 

It ocurred to me that you SRI guys might be able to get the benefits of a CAI without the hydro-lock risk by running a cold air duct to your SRI filter. You could make this even more effective by adding a heat shield or airbox with a CA duct. Just something to consider.

 

Yeah, I have a duct for my Stealth, but once again, I have dust to worry about too.

 

^^^ what ya'll talking bout

 

The W-R Stealth has a ducting kit, that allows you to run duct from the filter to a point where cool air flows into it. No real chance of hydrolocking this way.

 

ohh so basically it re works the piping to a diferent location? so it still gets outside air. its just not in that vent area.

 

It's still a short ram, with the filter in the same location, you just run what looks like a dryer vent, or shop vac hose to a location to funnel in cool air.

 

If cleaning your washable air filter less often is more of a concern than increasing your IATs well above stock, that's up to you.

 

I think silicon ingestion, and we all know these filters don't filter as well as stock, is more of a concern than an IAT.

 

hold on can u take a quick pic elway?? im totally confused. yesterday all i did was take out my long down pipe. and attached the filter right on the piping that was left. no sound change really but MAF sensor went nuts. actually is there an easy way to change our filters? its such a tight fit in that corner. i try moving the battery a tad over. but getting the filter down there is a pain. i have to kinda bend it.

 

As long as all you see is lost power but no detonation, I suppose elevated IATs aren't a big concern.

 

for emphasis

 

DJ, I think if you remove the battery you should have ample room to remove, clean and re-install a CAI filter.

The cold air ducting we were talking about is something you could add to direct cooler air towards a SRI filter. Any suitable flexible tubing could be used and the W-R kit apparently comes with such a duct kit.

 

Sorry to resurrect this post on the first page, but I'm late to this thread party.

So there's a bunch of links on this page, so which one should I get for adding a little bit more horsepower.

Basically I'm rocking a Strup Header, will be getting my TRD CAI installed soon and then my Tsudo Dual exhaust later this year.

I'm going turbo (potentially) next year, so I'm keeping bolt-ons low, and I think I'll stop with the underdrive pulley. But which one would be best to invest in?

Extracted From External Link:
NST02020 20% Underdrive Crank $110
NST02148 CR-Lite Crank $110
NST02022 20% Overdrive Alternator $88
NST02025 WP-Lite Water Pump $88
NST02025K 20% Alternator & WP-Lite Water Pump KIT $160
K060750 Belt for Underdrive Crank $35

Signed,
Thoroughly Confused