CIONIDE

iTrader: (1)

You live in California... that eBay set-up would likely get your car impounded for 30 days (costing over $1000 to get it back), and a HUGE fine for not having any catalytic converters at all.

Digon

Trust me I am not trying to get my car impounded and that would def. get you there.

DAILYXB-TYPE-R

just something to throw out there but if you get that exhaust you don't have to replace the scuba tank just replace the mid pipe like a cat back.

even when you replace the header, your car can be impounded if the cop is being a ___ and say you're a street racer. i'll post some pics later when i finish what i've done. there's still some thing i gotta work out but here is a sample w/o cover

masterbB

iTrader: (1)

any links to where i can buy the weapon r header and s pipe combo

MaxBoost925

Weapon-R.com

but they didnt release the combo yet.

Dailyxb has a prototype.

Digon

Weapon-r.com, does not have an Online store you have to get it from an authorized dealer, but they do have a link to all of them here;
http://www.weapon-r.com/english/inde...in_page=page_3

I'm thinking of getting either Strup or Weapon-R from Auto Accessories Discount House, in the OC, they had the best deals so far.

Also FYI the weapon-r headers already come with the S-pipe, you do have to purchase the CEL eliminator seperate.

I talked to Chris in Sales from Weapon -R and he did not say that it is a prototype , I think Daily XB painted his headers and added the extra piece(this is an assumption) to allow for a cover/heat shield.

Can you confirm that DailyXB?

Digon

Here is a picture that was sent to me from Chris @ Weapon-R

miketf1

dailyxb has a production piece. 3 other people have production pieces that came in with that shipment.

no matter which header you get you want to get the weapon-r CEL piece because the CEL piece that comes with the strup does not work properly. it would keep throwing codes. when i got the WR s-pipe i also installed the WR CEL and it fixed it right up.. 100miles already and no CEL

whitebreadbox

weapon r and strup make great headers. i went with strup because it was ceramic coated. it helps keep engine bay temps down (a very small amount), keeps the exhaust velocity up and doesn't "blue" like the naked SS. you will hear a "raspy" sound under hard accelleration no matter what exhaust/s pipe combo you run due to the lack of the primary cat and open tube design. if you keep the "scuba tank" the exhaust note isn't that much different than stock, but you will still hear the "rasp" under hard accelleration. no matter which one you get, you will need a CEL elim and weapon-r has the best one. hope this helps in some way, shape or form. either way, its personal pref. you'll be happy either way!

DAILYXB-TYPE-R

i know i'm one of the 1st to get the weapon-r, s-pipe and cel eliminator combo. i had it on for over 5kmiles and sometimes going over 100mph and i still don't have any cel problem so i think the weapon-r cel eliminator is a very very good piece thats completely worth every penny.
as far for the blue strip its a bracket my friend help me weld onto the header for header cover.
also the header isn't a prototype, what i did is remove it aand paint it w/header paint. the header paint i've used can handle heat up to 1400degree. i used 2 header primer coating and 2 header paint coating. got everything at autozone for around $40 better than paying hot jet $200.
if you are planning on painting it 1 can of header primer is enough an you'll need 2 cans of header paint. trust me 1 won't be enough.
this project is still in the works coz theres a few minor flaws i want to work out before i put up a DIY. i'll get the pix w/the header cover on by 2night.
almost forgot to mention is after i painted the header, the engine bay isn't getting that hot as compared to before "stainless steel" because the header paint have a ceramic coating to it.

NoLimitzBuilt

I have them both. I did the test fit for Strup. Then used the strup till Weapon R came out with theirs. They both are great units. It is hard to tell which one is better though. I am not positive, but I think I noticed some more mid range power on the weapon R one. But this is all off a butt dyno. LOL..
I will post pics of both of them this weekend.

Digon

DailyXB,

Thanks for confirming your details! and for the experience you have with painting the headers. Cant wait for the pics!

Digon

NolimitzInt:

First i would like to say that you have one of the sickest Xb's i have seen. Ii have been to the website and checked out the pictures of you box from beginning to current. Great JOB Cant wait for the Pics

So what made you change from Stup to weapon-r did you here that they had more performance power, I have to admitt that strups visually look nice since they are all bends from top until they connect. Thanks for your advice.

miketf1

pics from my install of the strup header...

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=224507

NoLimitzBuilt

Thank you for comments on the xB, I am very happy with the build on this one. The bad thing is it is still not done yet. Couple more things to go and then we will see.

I changed, just to try something new. Plus I like to help out all the companies out there. I am friends with both Strup and Weapon R. So if I can share the love with both of them I will. The more coverage I can get them both the better also.

Digon

Great pictures (good Camera) thanks for sharing the ceramic coated strups dont look that bad after all

Can this be a self install, considering that an individual is mechanicly intune

NoLimitzBuilt

honestly the header install is really easy. The hardest part is getting the old one out. That takes the longest out of anything. Once that is out of the way it is super easy. Make sure and let the O2 sensor cool completely before you try and take it out. It makes all the difference. From there it goes real fast.

miketf1

i didnt install this myself because i had a mediocre set of tools but tips regardless of whichever you choose to go..

1) the header is hot if you drove the car before installation. sounds stupid but ive seen it happen..
2) there are bolts on the side of the stock header that are difficult.. hard-ish to reach and held on tight because the heat cycling.. use a breaker bar or something..
3) if you get any stainless steel header either wipe it down with rubbing alcohol or make sure no form of grease, oil, or anything touches the surface. fingerprints will be burned in and it looks ugly as hell.

DAILYXB-TYPE-R

you want your header to look good after running make sure you do #3. i didn't coz i was in a rush and left some burt finger mark thats why i have to repaint it.

DAILYXB-TYPE-R

no problem and you're welcome