Alignment specs?
07-26-2009, 07:19 PM
#22
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 286
FROM ANOTHER POST....
WOW, there is a lot going on in this thread.... Let's talk about a couple of issues....
Let's start with WHEEL OFFSET..... Even if you do not lower the B and you change wheels to a larger wheel 18"-20" it "can" cause a pull or drift because of the way the final torque is transfered from the CV Axle to the ground. If you change the original OFFSET to a lower number, it moves the wheel outward from the original position and that will cause the wheel to react differently to the rotational force from the CV Axle. This will cause a pull when accelerating and a drift while driving, reguardless of road crown. A lower offset will make the wheel want to drive under the car, a higher number will make it want to drive away from the car. RESULT... If you have changed from factory size & offset, the alignment will need to be adjusted, even if it has not been lowered.
Now for the LOWERING SPRINGS.... Same as above. Once you lower the vehicle, you change several things. Think about how the wheel is set up in "FACTORY" position. All spring sets out there lower the rear more than the front. It's hard to explain without showing you, but as the rear is lowered more than the front, it causes the top of the front strut to move back when referenced to the center of the front wheel. RESULT... EVERYTHING CHANGES and factory specs are no longer any good here either.
Now combine WHEELS & SPRINGS...... So now we are changing things with the wheels, then changing them more with the springs and looking for someone to be responsible for not being able to align the B after we have screwed it all up.
Once everything has been changed like this, you have to find someone that understands the "ART OF ALIGNMENT", not just the alignment specs from a factory setting that can NEVER be achieved at this point. You will have to find a shop that specializes in lowered vehicles as the guy earlier stated. There is a lot to the art of aligning a vehicle that has had that many changes done to it.
I hope this helps explain why there are no SPECS for the vehicle after alignment. There are too many variables and the spec chart would be 20 pages long.
Having said all that, I changed wheels to KONIG 16" with factory offset and lowered my RS6 on NF210's. It drives great!!! No pull, no drift. I am searching for a good shop to check the alignment, but even if I go through my factory tires, who cares!!! They are Goodyear RS-S's and I will change them by 20K anyway.
WOW, there is a lot going on in this thread.... Let's talk about a couple of issues....
Let's start with WHEEL OFFSET..... Even if you do not lower the B and you change wheels to a larger wheel 18"-20" it "can" cause a pull or drift because of the way the final torque is transfered from the CV Axle to the ground. If you change the original OFFSET to a lower number, it moves the wheel outward from the original position and that will cause the wheel to react differently to the rotational force from the CV Axle. This will cause a pull when accelerating and a drift while driving, reguardless of road crown. A lower offset will make the wheel want to drive under the car, a higher number will make it want to drive away from the car. RESULT... If you have changed from factory size & offset, the alignment will need to be adjusted, even if it has not been lowered.
Now for the LOWERING SPRINGS.... Same as above. Once you lower the vehicle, you change several things. Think about how the wheel is set up in "FACTORY" position. All spring sets out there lower the rear more than the front. It's hard to explain without showing you, but as the rear is lowered more than the front, it causes the top of the front strut to move back when referenced to the center of the front wheel. RESULT... EVERYTHING CHANGES and factory specs are no longer any good here either.
Now combine WHEELS & SPRINGS...... So now we are changing things with the wheels, then changing them more with the springs and looking for someone to be responsible for not being able to align the B after we have screwed it all up.
Once everything has been changed like this, you have to find someone that understands the "ART OF ALIGNMENT", not just the alignment specs from a factory setting that can NEVER be achieved at this point. You will have to find a shop that specializes in lowered vehicles as the guy earlier stated. There is a lot to the art of aligning a vehicle that has had that many changes done to it.
I hope this helps explain why there are no SPECS for the vehicle after alignment. There are too many variables and the spec chart would be 20 pages long.
Having said all that, I changed wheels to KONIG 16" with factory offset and lowered my RS6 on NF210's. It drives great!!! No pull, no drift. I am searching for a good shop to check the alignment, but even if I go through my factory tires, who cares!!! They are Goodyear RS-S's and I will change them by 20K anyway.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sgtfluffy16
Regional - Northeast
3
07-28-2021 10:32 PM
