xseveredveganx

Most coilover manufacturers can either rebuild the damper insert, or sell you a new one. KSport charges around $110apiece for the new cartridges. BC Racing charges $110. Fortune Auto can rebuild your inserts for $125 a corner, and you can have them dyno them for like $25 more apiece.

I've been out of adjustable suspension for a year or so now and focusing solely on static.

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

I think the key word here severed is "adjustable" I either want it to go up and down with a switch or not at all. Haha The days of me driving my car up on a curb And sliding underneath it are over. I'm 33 I don't care about that stuff anymore, I'm also having my first child in april. The coilovers sounded good because it didint compromise the shock and when you think about it the xb is really only a little over in the front, the rear you are just getting an adjustable perch with adjustable shock. I don't know if anyone here has tried but I wonder if I could purchase the rear separate. The biggest issue with the lowering springs on the car is the rear gap. Who's to say I can call up 1 of these manufacturers in say " hey I previously purchased a cat in my car was rear ended and I just need the rears replaced"???

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the spelling, my stupid pile of crap droid phone sucks with the voice recognition. I meant to say call the manufacturer and tell them you alrrady purchased a kit and a vehicle was in an accident in you need to replace the rear perch springs and shocks.

xseveredveganx

You possibly could buy just the rear from some manufacturers. Just call them and let them know you bought a set of their coilovers, used, but the seller forgot to send the rears. Could work.

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE

Picked up some tanabe DF's pretty reasonable and I will be tossing them on in hopefully next week when they arrive before I leave town again..


here she ____s currently

flyingemu05

i say good choice on DF springs. i had the NF when i was running springs and always thought i should have bought DF's since it wasnt low enough for me. pics after the install

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Got the springs in yesterday, I installed the tanabe strut brace and TRD intake last night. holy ____ did that strut brace make that car feel like a freaking tank now..

in other news, I have to replace the cases on my harley after building a stroker motor for that and so far that little project is costing me another 3k to do so after I put the springs on, I think the mods to my XB are gonna slow down until after xmas.. I got a baby coming and these trips to the pumpkin patch are killing me..


Thank god the impala doesent get driven enough to give me all this fun

xseveredveganx

Haha! Harleys are ridiculously expensive!

And think, for a little more than $3k, you could turbo your xB!

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Severed, thats only THIS time.. if you are in for a good laugh at my expense.. this is a little lesson I call DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME

I buy my harley off some idiot who clearly grenades this motor way beyond what he told me had happened..

I put 200 miles on the bike.. the outer pinion shaft (part of the crank) sheers off, bike dies on freeway.. cases need to be split and a new flywheel must be put on (cost=1200)

After splitting the cases and assembling motor, I get 40 miles down the highway and the head gasket spits out.. turns out the threads pulled from the head (very common issue with harley evo motors) pull the heads off and put timesert into the threads and reassemble and on my merry way (cost=300)

this time I put 1000 miles on it and it spits the gasket out again.. turns out the timeserts pulled out and I have to split the case AGAIN and have if weld filled, tapped and the guy who does the machining work tells me "these things will never fall back out, I even welded the timeserts in" (cost=1400)

put another 1000 on the bike and now I get white smoke from the front cylinder dumping out of the pipe.. pull the cylinder jugs off and the piston (which is new) burned a hole right through the cylinder wall.. turns out with the stroker kit and 10 over piston bore, the stock heads couldnt handle the high compression and wasnt allowing the engine to breath.. head work being done, ported, bigger valves and stronger springs, new cylinders front and rear.. (cost=2100)

after putting the engine back together and torquing the heads... you guessed it.. case bolts spinning and pulled out the timeserts AGAIN.. the machine shop guy who "fixed it" tells me he can put in a bigger timesert.. biggest one they have. he does, charges me 70 bucks and I put the heads back on and the damn bolt SPINS AGAIN..


so now I am being told the factory cases obviously were compromised from overheating or whatever.. so now i get to order new cases (950) from S&S and rebuild the entire bottom end AGAIN (cost=1000)

so lets tally this up

$6950 is what I have dumped into this motor so far..


it went from an 80 inch evo to a true 96 inch stroker and it putting out over 100 hp (for a bike thats fast)

a factory built S&S 96 in stroker motor with all the bells and whistles $5180

and that comes with carb, perfomance oil pump (which I have) and S&S ignition..

so needless to say I could have just bought the stupid motor from the crate and been done with it..


this thing better outrun the mother ____ing cops once its finished..


anyways, installing the DF's on monday and I will post pics..

VENisME

Not trying to be a dick, but next time you'd probably be better served buying Japanese.

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Club rule #1

Patched members are required to own and ride Harley Davidson motorcycles..

Dont worry, I'm not offended but you dance with whom you came

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Well here she sits..




I have to admit I am pretty impressed the difference in the ride from stock to the tanabe's and I am happy I got them, its lowered perfect for me and the ride improved from the factory springs.


I set the camber in the front - 0.4 right and 0.2 left because Im a big dude at 6'0 290 and it will adjust out once sitting in the car. The negative camber will give me better handling and the rears were within specs..


Im happy and now onto finishing the audio system.. and acoustically treating the roof and doors, this thing is louder than a cow fart in a tin ____ing can..

flyingemu05

looks good, closed up the gap in the wheel wells nicely.

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Yeah seriously I thought I was gonna regret it and this thing was going to be slammed beyond what I wanted..

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

So quick update but I am rubbing over mild dips or hard turns.. I thought it was the fenders but I dont see any fender wear or tire scrape.. Maybe the inner plastics? I might have to move up to a stiffer spring to keep this thing from bottoming out.. maybe sway bars? or should I just throw the tokico blues in?

xseveredveganx

Pull the wheels off and give it a look. I'd assume it's just the fender liners.

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

its just the fender liners.. I am hesitant to remove them since there is no separation from the engine compartment without them.. so in other words ____ it.. Ill throw some tokicos on after the holidays to firm out the ride

xseveredveganx

They'll wear away eventually and have holes, like mine. Or you can get in there with a heat gun, heat up where it's hitting, and push that section away a bit. Stretch it, if you will.

kingofthecrate

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm good point. I will do that this week..

besides you and i need to chit chat about how and where I am mounting two 8's or that shallow mount JL audio 13' in this _____

VENisME

Try is man http://oemaudioplus.com/mobile/#/mobile/systems/xB.html
Check out their YouTube video of the installation. Nice and clean, to me it puts some of the extra weight towards the middle of the car and at its lowest point. Should be better for handling compared to a system in the rear.