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Old 05-07-2010 | 07:39 PM
  #21  
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i run kinetic rotors and trd pads for the rear i use powerstops bads the trd pad is alot more aggresive then any of the other pads i have tried they are dusty though but stop far better then the powerstops i can tell you that i would go that route i have been harder on these brakes then any others multiple track days and slowing down from 130 to 40 2 times in about 40 seconds trust me trd pads all the way
Old 05-11-2010 | 05:07 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by coryjames
i run kinetic rotors and trd pads for the rear i use powerstops bads the trd pad is alot more aggresive then any of the other pads i have tried they are dusty though but stop far better then the powerstops i can tell you that i would go that route i have been harder on these brakes then any others multiple track days and slowing down from 130 to 40 2 times in about 40 seconds trust me trd pads all the way
Thanks for the first hand experience, Cory. I still can't even decide on rotors. There are so many good arguments in favor of slotted/drilled rotors and equally good against them but no hard data. We all know that drilled rotors are more likely to crack and we've all heard the theoretical benefits of slots, holes or dimples but there doesn't seem to be any supporting evidence. Slotted/drilled/dimpled rotors do look very cool though.

FWIW, trains have very HD braking requirements and they all use vented blank faced rotors. I've never seen or heard of slots, holes or dimples used on any train brake rotors, anywhere in the world. On certain locomotives the blank rotors are bolted to the wheel and that is where they typically crack, right through the bolt holes.

It seems to me that slots, holes and dimples are more for appearance than performance. The question then is whether the improved appearance justifies the extra cost and the significance of any performance loss caused by such an aesthetic treatment. Frankly, I love the look of slotted/drilled rotors and as long as the performance isn't decreased significantly, I'd probably spend a few extra coins for them. OTOH, I don't like the increased pad wear from slots or the greatly increased crack potential from drilled.

Last edited by ScionFred; 05-11-2010 at 05:12 AM.
Old 05-12-2010 | 10:30 AM
  #23  
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Fred:
Just installed Posi Quiet Ceramic pads on my stock rotors. Combined with new Hanhook summer tires. Not the forum for tires, but they offer a large benefit to both handling & braking performance. Very satisfied and didn't break the bank.
Old 05-12-2010 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by srb219
Fred:
Just installed Posi Quiet Ceramic pads on my stock rotors. Combined with new Hanhook summer tires. Not the forum for tires, but they offer a large benefit to both handling & braking performance. Very satisfied and didn't break the bank.
Good info. Did you have the rotors cut? Any noise with the new pads?
Old 05-13-2010 | 12:03 AM
  #25  
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whats so hard about bleeding brakes dont you just turn a screw?
Old 05-14-2010 | 03:16 PM
  #26  
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www.topbrakes.com you can get stainless steel brake lines kits right from technafit for $119.00 both front and back free shipping.
Old 05-15-2010 | 09:44 AM
  #27  
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Did not have the rotors face cut. Unless you go a shop that really has good equipment and someone that knows how to run it, more harm is done than good. Rotors must be indicated "true" before cutting. Even the dealer just slaps them on the machine and you roll the dice. No noise at all with new pads.
Old 05-18-2010 | 04:17 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by srb219
Did not have the rotors face cut. Unless you go a shop that really has good equipment and someone that knows how to run it, more harm is done than good. Rotors must be indicated "true" before cutting. Even the dealer just slaps them on the machine and you roll the dice. No noise at all with new pads.
I might have been lucky in the past then because I never had any problems with cut rotors or drums. OTOH, I never had any problem re-using rotors and drums for a second set of pads/shoes. Except for my 68 Camaro and 87 Mustang that kept warping the drums. 4 wheel drum brakes on a 400hp 396 that did 130mph and rear drums on a 250hp stang that topped out at 150mph... wtf?

Oops, I forgot one. A 1978 Subaru that kept warping the solid front rotors. Vented rotors would have solved that oem mistake.

Glad to hear that the Posi-quiets are indeed "quiet". They're on my short list with Hawk SP and Posi-quiet extended wear SM.
Old 05-18-2010 | 03:58 PM
  #29  
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I purchased StopTech front Rotors & pads...but I CANNOT get the old front rotors off? Am so upset, I have tried these past two weekends and they just won't move. I've done this before but never had such a hard time getting the rotors off. Is there something is missing?
Any help how to get the old rusty rotors off?
I will be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by JoeSpeed; 05-18-2010 at 04:04 PM.
Old 05-18-2010 | 04:35 PM
  #30  
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^^^wd40 and a rubber mallet is your friend to get them off; i had the same issue when i swapped mine
Old 05-18-2010 | 05:33 PM
  #31  
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observe the two bolt holes on the rotor drive a 10mill bold into it it will pop right off thats why they are there
Old 05-19-2010 | 03:58 PM
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^^^ A+++ ^^^
Old 09-06-2010 | 08:08 AM
  #33  
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Does anybody have experience with R1 Concept brake pads(ceramic)? They seem pretty cheap in price, which makes me think twice about ordering them.
Old 09-15-2010 | 05:31 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DarkApathy
Does anybody have experience with R1 Concept brake pads(ceramic)? They seem pretty cheap in price, which makes me think twice about ordering them.
Your life rides on your pads. Consider a trust-worthy OEM pad manufacturer like Centric aka StopTech.

http://www.dezod.com/pd-centric-posi...e-padsxaxb.cfm

http://www.dezod.com/pd-centric-posi...ake-padsxb.cfm
Old 09-22-2010 | 06:27 AM
  #35  
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Ceramic pads last longer, at the expense of your rotor. You'll replace them just as often since you'll be replacing your rotors twice as often.
Old 09-22-2010 | 06:50 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by madmarx
Ceramic pads last longer, at the expense of your rotor. You'll replace them just as often since you'll be replacing your rotors twice as often.
I thought that SM pads wore out rotors faster?
Old 09-23-2010 | 02:48 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by JoeSpeed
I purchased StopTech front Rotors & pads...but I CANNOT get the old front rotors off? Am so upset, I have tried these past two weekends and they just won't move. I've done this before but never had such a hard time getting the rotors off. Is there something is missing?
Any help how to get the old rusty rotors off?
I will be greatly appreciated.

there is 2 threded holes in your rotors for that
Old 09-28-2010 | 10:41 PM
  #38  
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Anyone have any results with the TRD front pads?

http://www.trdsparks.com/displaypart...&parts_id=2258
Old 09-28-2010 | 10:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Beezer30
Anyone have any results with the TRD front pads?

http://www.trdsparks.com/displaypart...&parts_id=2258
Post #16 of this thread:

HOW TO/DIY: Front Brake Pad Install
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=155471

I have the TRD front pads also, and can confirm that the bite and brake feel are better than OEM.

And yes, they throw a LOT of dust!
Old 10-21-2010 | 12:43 AM
  #40  
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i have the r1 concept drilled/slotted f/r set, ssb lines and motul brake fluids for a yr now with green stuff pads, gotta luv the performance and still working great even in wet condition. good bang for the buck

but lately i've been thinking of moving on to bbk coz i want to go turbo next yr so i'm planning ahead to see how much i'll need to save.

is it worth it? which would be better trd, rotora, or ksport?

i'm kinda leaning towards ksport because they offer sizes 12"-16" rotors and both front and rear

both trd and rotora offer only front and trd is 13.39", rotora 12.99"

TIA for any info


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