Fair enough, Ima fixin' ta deliver some pichers then!

Yeah, the tirerack image is not accurate but the Hotchkis part number they referenced matched, so I took a little risk. The product received turned out to be the correct anthracitish color, if that's what you call it. $279 all told.

I have yet to install the front sway bar, and honestly am a bit concerned about the 140ft-lbf required when reinstalling the front support arm 22mm bolts. Will attempt this weekend with my roommate's 150ft-lb rated torque wrench. I too would like to know the true weight differences. I've already got the rear one on, but I feel like maybe people have posted that before somewhere on the forums.. the diff in weight between TRD and Hotchkis. I'll measure the difference in weight between the stock front sway and the Hotchkis.

 

crix, I think you'll be ok using a 150 lb torque wrench. The rule of thumb is don't trust the top and bottom 10% of any torque wrench. You'd be on the ragged edge but still safe. I'd be willing to bet most people use "two clicks of the elbow" to gage torque which in most cases is fine.

Gordon

 

You'll be fine with the 140 ft# to reinstall the lower control arm front bolt. Just make sure the wrench had been stored turned down below 20 before (and after) use.
You won't overwhelm a 150 ft# torq wrench until you change your springs, where the strut assembly to knuckle bolts take 177 ft#.

 

http://imgur.com/a/B2CRV

Okay, wow. This took me a long time to do and I'm still not done, since I can't actually get the 22mm front control arm bolts to the proper torque setting cuz there's no frickin' room to get any leverage under there. I may have to buy some ramps tomorrow at AutoZone (while just trying to drive carefully and slowly).

It was a bit like one of those Chinese metal linkage puzzles I gotta say. My unfamiliarity with car 'anatomy' also probably made the task more difficult. Once I realized that removing the front passenger side wheel would allow me to really pivot the control arm out of the way I was able to easily navigate the slightly larger diameter Hotchkis bar into position.

Anyone in SoCal have an impact wrench or know what I could do? I bet an autoshop would charge me 40bucks just to drive it in and tighten the bolts... lame.

Might attempt the Tanabe springs tomorrow. A buddy of mine who has worked on his car since he was a kid says he's never used proper torque settings. I'll do the 177ftlbs by just cranking those 22mm knuckle bolts with a 3 foot breaker bar.

 

You're only going to have to put ~1/3-a$$ into an added 3' cheater; don't strip those murphs...

 

Hah, I like the way you put that. Noted. Thanks GW

 

http://imgur.com/a/JvKiC

Twas a fun day. Only need to install the wing, and get an alignment. The shop was too close to closing by the time I got there; but I was thinking it might not be a bad idea to drive for a week while the springs settle before doing the alignment. I'll do it next weekend. Oh, lighting adjustment was super easy; too easy, haha.

As I expected I had to undo the rear sway bar entirely to get the rear springs on. No biggie, especially after having done it before.

My only discontent is that there's no more work to do!

 

Does Hotchkis sell just the rear sway bar by itself? I really don't understand why I need to replace the front one especially if you need to torque it at 140lbs! Can't a sway bar and some ___ behind it do just as good? Is there that much of a difference when the front one is replaced? Also, do you have to disconnect linkage, shocks or struts to install these sway bars? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined but do not have spring compressors or the likes.

 

Nope only in a set. I put my rear on only and the car just felt weird. Hard to explain but once the front was on it seemed more planted. I don't know my opinion.

 

So were they difficult to install? Do you really need a torque wrench? Will a jack and two supports be enough two complete the job? Thanks!

 

The rear is easy. Jack it up, undo the strut bolts and nuts (one side at a time), reinstall the bolts and nuts the same way as they came out (dont reverse the bolt and nut IT WILL BACK OUT oh and locktite the treads), put the bushings on (lube em up, oh yeah), raise the bar up to its position (a little persuasion maybe necessary to get the bar into the grove), do up the clamps, and boom done.

The front is a little different and from my knowledge (of course). I followed the instructions but found out I needed air tools because the damn bolts wouldn't come out even with penetrating fluid. But once I got the bolts undone it was cake. Just make sure you do the end link nuts to 150 lbs or as tight as you can and use locktite on the treads. I have had my setup on since February with no problems and do about 150 to 500 miles a week. Anymore questions PM me.

 

Huge difference... They come in sets and work really good together. Easy , just pay attention as with anything. A really nice improvment

 

As stated already, the rear is easier than the front. Though neither was really hard, the most difficult thing about the installation for me was removing the front OEM bar, but that became a lot easier when I realized that the wheels needed to be off. So don't forget to remove the front wheels (or at least the passenger side front wheel) or else you won't be able to rotate the control arm out of the way to free up the OEM sway bar. Performance-wise: I think I can feel the difference, but its quite subtle, feels a little more planted. The rear bar is a very clear upgrade... body roll reduced significantly. You probably don't need a torque wrench though you may need a breaker bar or just be strong as hell. Those 22mm bolts on the control arm are torqued to 144lbf. Be safe.

 

For the sake of posterity, I'll chime in on my impressions of the TRD bar I just installed. I installed it just after installing the ebay front strut bar, and I've got to say, the dollar to enjoyment ratio on the TRD bar is not that high.

It definitely helps flatten the chassis on longer sweepers, but it doesn't give the car that point and shoot feel you'd get with a stiffer bar. The bar doesn't add any of the feeling that you're rotating around a pivot point in corners like you would get in a sports car (which I'm aware the xB is not). I guess I was just expecting more.

What the TRD bar does well is give the chassis a more balanced feel. Is the Hotchkis more of the same?

 

The hotchkis bars completely changed the xb for me (extremely flat, very point and click). However, I DO drive tons of KY backroads on a regular basis, so I was extremely familiar with how the car felt before installing them.

 

Attempted to do mine today with no luck. Thought I had a 22mm socket, I DON'T! Did everything. Loosened the end links, the sway bar plates and that stupid dust cover that all the plastic clips broke. Got to the control arm bolt and no 22mm socket! Tried a 7/8" with a breaker bar and was afraid I'd strip it so I quit. Put everything back together and took a test drive to make sure eveything was ok. Guess I'll have to take it to a shop to have them put it on.

 

REDACTED

 

You will love it after you get them installed, especially after you do it yourself.

 

So. I emailed the local "tuner" shop to see what they would charge to install the front sway. You ready for this freaking BS................................ $335! The charge was for 3hrs of labor! Ha! So I bought a 22mm socket and a 2'x3/4" galv pipe to fit over the ratchet for leverage. Still don't know how I'm gonna torque the lower control arm bolts to 140lbs with the car at ride level.

 

Borrow a torque wrench and extension. Better yet, stop by a local tire shop and see if one of the acne faced kids can help you. Go by on a Sunday, more luck the manager isn't there.