eph94

This was a great DIY post. One thing I forgot to do, though, since it was not mentioned here was to lube the rubber bushings with the supplied silicon grease. I noticed the tube just sitting there after I got done, and thought, "Dang!" I should have read the TRD instructions too but this DIY was so straightforward that I didn't think I needed to.

Did anyone else not lube the rubber bushings? I'm wondering if it will be fine as is or if I need to undo everything. I'm not the most mechanically inclined person, so this 20 minute job took me about 60 minutes since I had a bit of difficult lining up the RSB with the strut bolts as well as tightening the clamps.

I also installed the TRD rear lowering springs while I was there. The rear ride height and the front (with the stock springs) are now identical at 26 3/4 inches. The front springs look like a PIA, so I'm going to have a local shop do that (and the front strut bar while they have the cowl assembly apart) along with an alignment.

I'd hate to have to uninstall and then reinstall everything. I'm hoping to hear there are some of you who haven't lubed the bushings and are no worse for the wear!

miketf1

sorry but you should kinda lube it.. you can do the lube really simply though. loosed the strut bolts and just remove the clamps. that would allow the bar to just swing out of its "hole" and you can remove and lube the bushings there.

the point of the lube is so that it doesnt creak and it properly links the left right struts.

eph94

Thanks. I decided to take it off to lube it. I also reversed the direction of the bolts at the shocks while I was at it since the TRD instruction explicitly say to keep the nut on the tire side and to torque the bolt only. I've read in other threads that an installation with the nut facing inward caused problems like the nut loosening.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

I just want to point out that what is described here as the first step actually should NOT be done! Although it definitely makes the install easier, the bolts should NOT be reversed. The nuts lock in the OEM position (which is why you must NOT turn them.) This groove to ridge lock is lost if you change the bolt orientation from oem, or apply torque to the nuts. Correct installation requires the bolts and nuts remain as oem. This first photo shows the correct orientation of the bolt -- DON'T reverse it!



The following two photos both depict the bolt in the INCORRECT orientation, the nut should be at the OUTSIDE, just as oem.

TrevorS

iTrader: (1)

The above quotes are good examples of WHY the bolt orientation should NOT be changed!

Right on !

woof

I know this sounds pathetic, but what kind of charge are dealers asking for this installation? I watched a dealer mechanic put a rear sway on my Yaris and it took 14 minutes but I got charged an hour! Of course, the Yaris has NO brackets, the bar floats.

DREWxB08

iTrader: (1)

They wanted $110 for the install of the swaybar at my local dealer.