Header Install (DC Sports)
#1
Header Install (DC Sports)
Tools Needed:
Metric Socket Set
Torx 5.0mm socket
WD40
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
4" or 6" Socket Extension
12mm Open Head Wrench
Adjustable Wrench (or 15/16 Open Head wrench )
Optional:
New Exhaust Manifold Gasket (P/N 17173-28010)
12mm Deep Socket
Impact Wrench
Torque wrench
Work Mat
Drill
1/2th bit
First and foremost Please DO NOT!!! WORK UNDER THE CAR WHILE IT REST ON A FLOOR JACK... Use jack stands, I've had a bad experience with a car held only on a jack trust me its worth the 15 dollars or so...
Now that I have some stands thanks to Jesse(from focaljet) I jack the car up from the front support.
I then place one stand on each side of the car using the cars side supports.
Now that you have done this its time to get down and dirty
*Make sure the engine is cool before you start working*
First Remove the (4) 12mm nuts holding the heat shield in place(Red)
Then using a 5.0 torx socket unscrew the stud(Yellow)
After removing the stud, move the heat shield away from the header and spray the (5) Header nuts and 02 sensor with WD40. (Use a good amount)
(Note: Doing this will make the new header smoke for about 10 minutes, if smoke continues for more then 10 minutes shut the car off at once and recheck your work)
Now let the nuts and 02 sensor soak in the WD40 for about 20 minutes.
While the 02 is soaking get under the car and using your 4"-6" extension remove the (2) 9/16th spring loaded bolts(Red).
Now in this picture you will see a black bracket that connects from the bottom of the header to a mounting point. There is two of these brackets one on each side of the header, both have one nut connecting them to the header. The nuts are 9/16ths(Purple) remove them as well.
The Right hand bracket (Closest to the passenger side) Will need its 2nd bolt removed. This bolt connects the bracket to its mounting point. Remove this bolt(Yellow) then remove the right hand bracket. (Bracket needs to be removed to slide the OEM header out)
Bracket gone ( Phat Pat making a weird face, Sorry )
Now remove the 12mm bolt(Red) from this mount, And the other 12mm bolt(Purple) Hidden Under the mount
If it has been 20 minutes or more head over to your o2 sensor with your Adjustable Wrench Or (15/16 Open Head Wrench) Give it one turn after that it should be loose enough to take it off with your hand. After this you can remove the heat shield completely.
Now unbolt the (5) 12mm nuts, The Nut in (BOLD RED) is a little stubborn. I had to use a 12mm Open Head Wrench with slight Hammer tapping. :D. Once you get the final bolt off, remove the header by sliding it out to the passenger's side and then pulling up, this will expose the old gasket.
Remove the old gasket. (If you are reusing the gasket do not remove it.
On the bottom of the OEM header you will see this Donut Gasket.
Remove it
And place it on the DC header.
Now with your new Gasket. (P/N 17173-28010)
Install it.
And set the header in place.
Now put your bolts on the studs and tighten them as they are numbered. Give each bolt about one turn and then move on to the next one. Repeat this until they are all tight. (20 foot pounds is the specs on these) I myself didnt have a Torque Wrench so I used Miko's "Its Tight" method just use your judgement. As for the number (4) Nut, I tightened it by hand and then used the Hammer Method once more to get it tight.
Now Place in your o2 sensor in the new header, Tighten it down with your wrench.
Now back under the car line up the header and put in your spring loaded bolts.
Tighten them down until the spring is fully compressed.
And your done!!!
Review:
Instructions were good, they could be improved. (Maybe include better description on things) for the people who are new to Header Installs. Our total install time was about 2 hours this is because we heard the ALT needed to be dropped to get the last bolt out. We called Dennis from DC and left a message. He replied promptly and told me that Gahun (Sorry If I spelled that wrong) Would give us a call about this problem.
He called me ASAP but I missed the call. We played a little bit of phone tag trying to reach each other, I was about fed up with this damn bolt so we used a Open Head 12mm Wrench and a Hammer to tap is loose... Other then this small problem the install was pretty easy and straight forward.
After the install the header smoked for about 10 minutes this was due to the WD40, Grease, etc. The first test drive was performed with a Fireball Universal Tip w/ Silencer, At idle it gave a nice deep groan. Accelerating on the other hand sounded very raspy and high pitched like a Honda Civic on speed I think this is due to my muffler choice (Maybe I can get my hands on a DC system ).
I removed the Silencer from the Muffler, And the tone became a lot deeper at idle but once again acceleration had that same High pitched Raspy sound, I did feel the car pull more at high speeds witch was awesome it felt very responsive. I will update this after 2 weeks and after a month to tell you how the tone has changed. All and all good product! Does Need better instructions for New Installers!
*Note* The DC Header is known to make the 'check engine' light pop on, But no worries for $3.00 at your local Autozone Or Pep Boys you can fix this.
You will need a set of Spark Plug Anti-Foul's they are 18mm HELP! brand Part#42002 or 42009.
You will need to drill out a 1/2" hole in one of the Anti-Foul's
Unbolt your 2nd O2 sensor *NOT THE ONE ON THE HEADER, THE ONE ON THE S PIPE*
(I would spray a little WD40 on this o2 as well before removing)
Now screw on the Anti-Foul with the 1/2" hole on top of the regular one and then screw it into the hole for the 02.
Screw the 02 into the Anti-Fouler's tighten everything up, Then disconnect the (-) Battery terminal for about 1 minute.
And BAM no CEL.
~ Kaeon
Metric Socket Set
Torx 5.0mm socket
WD40
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
4" or 6" Socket Extension
12mm Open Head Wrench
Adjustable Wrench (or 15/16 Open Head wrench )
Optional:
New Exhaust Manifold Gasket (P/N 17173-28010)
12mm Deep Socket
Impact Wrench
Torque wrench
Work Mat
Drill
1/2th bit
First and foremost Please DO NOT!!! WORK UNDER THE CAR WHILE IT REST ON A FLOOR JACK... Use jack stands, I've had a bad experience with a car held only on a jack trust me its worth the 15 dollars or so...
Now that I have some stands thanks to Jesse(from focaljet) I jack the car up from the front support.
I then place one stand on each side of the car using the cars side supports.
Now that you have done this its time to get down and dirty
*Make sure the engine is cool before you start working*
First Remove the (4) 12mm nuts holding the heat shield in place(Red)
Then using a 5.0 torx socket unscrew the stud(Yellow)
After removing the stud, move the heat shield away from the header and spray the (5) Header nuts and 02 sensor with WD40. (Use a good amount)
(Note: Doing this will make the new header smoke for about 10 minutes, if smoke continues for more then 10 minutes shut the car off at once and recheck your work)
Now let the nuts and 02 sensor soak in the WD40 for about 20 minutes.
While the 02 is soaking get under the car and using your 4"-6" extension remove the (2) 9/16th spring loaded bolts(Red).
Now in this picture you will see a black bracket that connects from the bottom of the header to a mounting point. There is two of these brackets one on each side of the header, both have one nut connecting them to the header. The nuts are 9/16ths(Purple) remove them as well.
The Right hand bracket (Closest to the passenger side) Will need its 2nd bolt removed. This bolt connects the bracket to its mounting point. Remove this bolt(Yellow) then remove the right hand bracket. (Bracket needs to be removed to slide the OEM header out)
Bracket gone ( Phat Pat making a weird face, Sorry )
Now remove the 12mm bolt(Red) from this mount, And the other 12mm bolt(Purple) Hidden Under the mount
If it has been 20 minutes or more head over to your o2 sensor with your Adjustable Wrench Or (15/16 Open Head Wrench) Give it one turn after that it should be loose enough to take it off with your hand. After this you can remove the heat shield completely.
Now unbolt the (5) 12mm nuts, The Nut in (BOLD RED) is a little stubborn. I had to use a 12mm Open Head Wrench with slight Hammer tapping. :D. Once you get the final bolt off, remove the header by sliding it out to the passenger's side and then pulling up, this will expose the old gasket.
Remove the old gasket. (If you are reusing the gasket do not remove it.
On the bottom of the OEM header you will see this Donut Gasket.
Remove it
And place it on the DC header.
Now with your new Gasket. (P/N 17173-28010)
Install it.
And set the header in place.
Now put your bolts on the studs and tighten them as they are numbered. Give each bolt about one turn and then move on to the next one. Repeat this until they are all tight. (20 foot pounds is the specs on these) I myself didnt have a Torque Wrench so I used Miko's "Its Tight" method just use your judgement. As for the number (4) Nut, I tightened it by hand and then used the Hammer Method once more to get it tight.
Now Place in your o2 sensor in the new header, Tighten it down with your wrench.
Now back under the car line up the header and put in your spring loaded bolts.
Tighten them down until the spring is fully compressed.
And your done!!!
Review:
Instructions were good, they could be improved. (Maybe include better description on things) for the people who are new to Header Installs. Our total install time was about 2 hours this is because we heard the ALT needed to be dropped to get the last bolt out. We called Dennis from DC and left a message. He replied promptly and told me that Gahun (Sorry If I spelled that wrong) Would give us a call about this problem.
He called me ASAP but I missed the call. We played a little bit of phone tag trying to reach each other, I was about fed up with this damn bolt so we used a Open Head 12mm Wrench and a Hammer to tap is loose... Other then this small problem the install was pretty easy and straight forward.
After the install the header smoked for about 10 minutes this was due to the WD40, Grease, etc. The first test drive was performed with a Fireball Universal Tip w/ Silencer, At idle it gave a nice deep groan. Accelerating on the other hand sounded very raspy and high pitched like a Honda Civic on speed I think this is due to my muffler choice (Maybe I can get my hands on a DC system ).
I removed the Silencer from the Muffler, And the tone became a lot deeper at idle but once again acceleration had that same High pitched Raspy sound, I did feel the car pull more at high speeds witch was awesome it felt very responsive. I will update this after 2 weeks and after a month to tell you how the tone has changed. All and all good product! Does Need better instructions for New Installers!
*Note* The DC Header is known to make the 'check engine' light pop on, But no worries for $3.00 at your local Autozone Or Pep Boys you can fix this.
You will need a set of Spark Plug Anti-Foul's they are 18mm HELP! brand Part#42002 or 42009.
You will need to drill out a 1/2" hole in one of the Anti-Foul's
Unbolt your 2nd O2 sensor *NOT THE ONE ON THE HEADER, THE ONE ON THE S PIPE*
(I would spray a little WD40 on this o2 as well before removing)
Now screw on the Anti-Foul with the 1/2" hole on top of the regular one and then screw it into the hole for the 02.
Screw the 02 into the Anti-Fouler's tighten everything up, Then disconnect the (-) Battery terminal for about 1 minute.
And BAM no CEL.
~ Kaeon
#7
Originally Posted by i64X
The spark plug anti fouler trick works great. I've gone over 3,000 on my car with this trick using the DC headers and I don't have a CEL yet.
#10
Originally Posted by matty-tC
that rocks. nice writeup. now fix that muffler ;)
Later!
~ Kaeon
#11
Originally Posted by Kaeon
On the DC header, It works fine. They only people having problems is the Megan Header users, Either way There is a couple of S.Pipes coming out that "Claim" to fix that problem. Ill post info on it when I get it and try it out.
#14
Originally Posted by raWr215
sure that'll be great, but im a car noob, can you explain how would the anti-foul work with the o2 sensor
Rawr,
Im not a car professional myself, But Im pretty sure that the DC Header has to much flow for the stock 02 to handle, Im pretty sure that extending the 02 out a little bit by using the Anti Foulers, corrects the flow being supplied to the 02 therefore not throwing a CEL, Someone please correct me if im wrong. This is just my guess..
#15
did DC give you that procedure for that fix? if so i can contact them and ask them, i am actually very interested in the DC header you put in your tC. so i don't mind calling them if i have to! plus i'll post the info when i get it
#16
Originally Posted by raWr215
did DC give you that procedure for that fix? if so i can contact them and ask them, i am actually very interested in the DC header you put in your tC. so i don't mind calling them if i have to! plus i'll post the info when i get it
#20
Originally Posted by jrjust123
i just did the non foulers trick with my 06 tc and it does not work. i have 4-1 DC sport race headers, i used non foulers HELP! part # 42002 AND 42009 and niether works, any help?
Did you drill out the Top fouler to the proper size?. Did you reset the ECU? Did you check and make sure all your work is nice and tight? These details will help us assist you better..