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2012 TC ABS/wheel speed sensor replacement

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Old 11-11-2023 | 05:34 PM
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iceonfire1's Avatar
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Default 2012 TC ABS/wheel speed sensor replacement

Hi all!

My front right abs/wheel speed sensor seems to need replacement and the local shop I'm working with is having trouble with the repair. They swapped it out 3 times and the sensor still malfunctions over roughly 40mph. Seems like they used one from a 3rd party manufacturer that doesn't fit exactly.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand that was compatible with their other ABS sensors?
Old 11-13-2023 | 08:47 PM
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Did your ECU throw an ABS, SRS and or TPMS warning light? Did you scan for diagnostic trouble codes?

Did your old speed sensor pass a continuity test? Three failures suggest it's not a speed sensor problem. It could be a corroded cable connector, a short in the cable wire and or a faulty brake actuator.
Old 11-14-2023 | 12:33 AM
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Thanks for the reply! It's just been the ABS and traction control lights coming on. The sensor was identified as the problem by the shop I went to. They scanned for codes. I can't rule out cable issues, but the strange thing in that respect is how consistent the problem is. The sensor seems to work fine between 0-30mph, then begins to misread above that (my speedometer wiggles back and forth) and the warning lights come on around 40+mph. Seems the issue is connected to a certain speed. I had a tech look at it over the weekend and they think the sensor in it now is an aftermarket one that's a few millimeters too short to read the reluctor ring properly. Still a weird diagnosis though -- seems like the part wouldn't have worked in any car if that was the case.

Maybe there's some additional corrosion or damage to the sensor housing.
Old 11-14-2023 | 01:51 AM
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Have you checked the input and output speed sensors on your transmission?
Old 11-14-2023 | 02:48 AM
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I haven't. What would that tell me?
Old 10-23-2024 | 06:56 PM
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Default Worn parts

I’ve been in the automotive trade virtually all my life. Referencing your pictures. The cap for the bleeder screw really isn’t that important. If and when it ever does get plugged up, it’s very easily unplugged, so I wouldn’t worry about it number two looks fine to me. I don’t think I’d worry about anything there. Picture number three is a swaybar link. Once that boot is torn dirt gets in there and it starts creating more wear and tear. I wouldn’t mess with it until it’s time to replace it. It could be five years down the road. Picture number four, the dust boot for the strut again, I wouldn’t worry about it, if you have over 100,000 miles on your vehicle, now is the time to start looking into replacing the struts in the front and the struts/shocks in the back
Old Yesterday | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfman6625
I’ve been in the automotive trade virtually all my life. Referencing your pictures. The cap for the bleeder screw really isn’t that important. If and when it ever does get plugged up, it’s very easily unplugged, so I wouldn’t worry about it number two looks fine to me. I don’t think I’d worry about anything there. Picture number three is a swaybar link. Once that boot is torn dirt gets in there and it starts creating more wear and tear. I wouldn’t mess with it until it’s time to replace it. It could be five years down the road. Picture number four, the dust boot for the strut again, I wouldn’t worry about it, if you have over 100,000 miles on your vehicle, now is the time to start looking into replacing the struts in the front and the struts/shocks in the back
hey there. You posted in the wrong thread.
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