Clutch Pedal Stop Install
09-29-2005, 02:45 PM
#21
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 2,677
wow does this suck lol
on my way to work this morning my cars voltage was droping and it stalled out after about 40min of driving when the voltage hit 9.3
i had my friend come to help me but that was a 1 hour drive for him so i stood in the cold (accoring to the tc it was 43F) directing cars aroudn mine
then when he got there we jump started the tc and now my break light isnt on my maint req light isnt on my abs light isnt on my spedo works again but now my turn signals dont work
also before the battery died the cel when on and so did the srs air bag light
we checked all the fuses with a test light and they are all find
also my radio still doesnt work
any help would be great im going to try and fix this issue tonight (i hope)
on my way to work this morning my cars voltage was droping and it stalled out after about 40min of driving when the voltage hit 9.3
i had my friend come to help me but that was a 1 hour drive for him so i stood in the cold (accoring to the tc it was 43F) directing cars aroudn mine
then when he got there we jump started the tc and now my break light isnt on my maint req light isnt on my abs light isnt on my spedo works again but now my turn signals dont work
also before the battery died the cel when on and so did the srs air bag light
we checked all the fuses with a test light and they are all find
also my radio still doesnt work
any help would be great im going to try and fix this issue tonight (i hope)
09-29-2005, 05:19 PM
#22
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Morgan, Utah
Posts: 1,182
Th eonly possible way your clutch stop could be involved is a damaged switch but it would only be a short to ground or open and not let the car start. It passes 12volts to the #1 pin of the starter relay when the key is turned fully to start position.
So, IF this is related then there is probably a short from the part of symptoms but it is hard to imagine being able to pass enough current through that size wire and cause so many other problems.
Is it possible the harness was damaged or pinched in some way during the process of installing the stop? I would get a mirror and some good lighting and look it over very very carefully. You can also replace all the fuses, etc and get what you can working, start the car or at least on IGN and wiggle everything around under there and see what happens.
There are two main power feeds into the relay/fuse block on the front of it, a big white one, constant power and a smaller blue one if I remember correctly is on when in the IGN position. I have modded my car in that area so much it is hard to relate to one that is mostly stock now.
Either way, sounds like an intermitant short or open, blowing fuses generally means a short, just enoughto load things down and cause problems but not enough to burn up something enough to find it easily.
Just thought of another area to check, in the middle on the back of the R/F block there is a 40 pin connector that feeds into the integration relay, check out that area as well.
Hope this is at least some help!
Rick
So, IF this is related then there is probably a short from the part of symptoms but it is hard to imagine being able to pass enough current through that size wire and cause so many other problems.
Is it possible the harness was damaged or pinched in some way during the process of installing the stop? I would get a mirror and some good lighting and look it over very very carefully. You can also replace all the fuses, etc and get what you can working, start the car or at least on IGN and wiggle everything around under there and see what happens.
There are two main power feeds into the relay/fuse block on the front of it, a big white one, constant power and a smaller blue one if I remember correctly is on when in the IGN position. I have modded my car in that area so much it is hard to relate to one that is mostly stock now.
Either way, sounds like an intermitant short or open, blowing fuses generally means a short, just enoughto load things down and cause problems but not enough to burn up something enough to find it easily.
Just thought of another area to check, in the middle on the back of the R/F block there is a 40 pin connector that feeds into the integration relay, check out that area as well.
Hope this is at least some help!
Rick
09-29-2005, 07:48 PM
#23
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 2,677
Originally Posted by raamaudio
Th eonly possible way your clutch stop could be involved is a damaged switch but it would only be a short to ground or open and not let the car start. It passes 12volts to the #1 pin of the starter relay when the key is turned fully to start position.
So, IF this is related then there is probably a short from the part of symptoms but it is hard to imagine being able to pass enough current through that size wire and cause so many other problems.
Is it possible the harness was damaged or pinched in some way during the process of installing the stop? I would get a mirror and some good lighting and look it over very very carefully. You can also replace all the fuses, etc and get what you can working, start the car or at least on IGN and wiggle everything around under there and see what happens.
There are two main power feeds into the relay/fuse block on the front of it, a big white one, constant power and a smaller blue one if I remember correctly is on when in the IGN position. I have modded my car in that area so much it is hard to relate to one that is mostly stock now.
Either way, sounds like an intermitant short or open, blowing fuses generally means a short, just enoughto load things down and cause problems but not enough to burn up something enough to find it easily.
Just thought of another area to check, in the middle on the back of the R/F block there is a 40 pin connector that feeds into the integration relay, check out that area as well.
Hope this is at least some help!
Rick
So, IF this is related then there is probably a short from the part of symptoms but it is hard to imagine being able to pass enough current through that size wire and cause so many other problems.
Is it possible the harness was damaged or pinched in some way during the process of installing the stop? I would get a mirror and some good lighting and look it over very very carefully. You can also replace all the fuses, etc and get what you can working, start the car or at least on IGN and wiggle everything around under there and see what happens.
There are two main power feeds into the relay/fuse block on the front of it, a big white one, constant power and a smaller blue one if I remember correctly is on when in the IGN position. I have modded my car in that area so much it is hard to relate to one that is mostly stock now.
Either way, sounds like an intermitant short or open, blowing fuses generally means a short, just enoughto load things down and cause problems but not enough to burn up something enough to find it easily.
Just thought of another area to check, in the middle on the back of the R/F block there is a 40 pin connector that feeds into the integration relay, check out that area as well.
Hope this is at least some help!
Rick
it starts now so i know that it is neither of these but i still have to dig and find out what is wrong with my other stuff
im going to do alot of digging around in the wireing of the tc tonight if any one has any docs on the wireing thoughs would be help full if you can email them to me if not well i guess scionlife will have some soon brought to you buy me lol
09-29-2005, 11:35 PM
#29
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 2,677
Originally Posted by raamaudio
Did you get the file? My SUPER FAST CABLE connection is not so fast right now, in fact sucks, got to figure out why, grrrrrrrr.
Rick
Rick
nope didnt get it
can you resend it???
09-30-2005, 02:10 AM
#31
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 2,677
Originally Posted by Serialk1llr
man....I'll be avoiding this mod like the plague until you figure out wtf happened ;)
Sorry to hear you got gremlins on a new car.
Sorry to hear you got gremlins on a new car.
hahaha new my tc is probly the most abused scratched on this site lol she works hard but i still love her lol she just through a little fit the past couple of days but i worked things out with her
i had a fuse blown for the ecu ign. and some how the car still ran lol
but that caused most the issues lol still amazed that it ran all the way home after work
or evne ran at all
but now the voltage stays constant and it runs fine my windows work and my turn signals and well every thing and i dont have to step on my clutch to start my car now
the mod is safe once again i would just take out the switch and strap thoughs to wires together but thats just me
yep im still confused about wtf happend to my car lol and come to think of it this fuse showed that it was fine when i checked it with the multi meeter but i wont argue with sucess lol pluss it looked fried when i took it out
09-30-2005, 02:48 AM
#32
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Morgan, Utah
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10-04-2005, 07:50 PM
#35
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 2,677
Originally Posted by Acsilva84
thanks for the right up!! its great. im gonna give this a werl
10-09-2005, 07:24 PM
#36
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Scikotics
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 274
hey all...
i found a fix for all those who are worried about breaking the compression switch by extending it. i went to the local home depot today and bought "Magic Sliders". they are 1" in diameter and have double sided sticky tape on the pack. I simpily just stacked the "sliders" bout 4 high (depening on how you have your elevator bolt adjusted) and placed it on the back side of the metal tab that hits the switch. easy as that. as you might have already guessed i had some trouble with extending the switch. so i decided to come up with a much simpiler way to solve the problem. hope this helps some of you.
i found a fix for all those who are worried about breaking the compression switch by extending it. i went to the local home depot today and bought "Magic Sliders". they are 1" in diameter and have double sided sticky tape on the pack. I simpily just stacked the "sliders" bout 4 high (depening on how you have your elevator bolt adjusted) and placed it on the back side of the metal tab that hits the switch. easy as that. as you might have already guessed i had some trouble with extending the switch. so i decided to come up with a much simpiler way to solve the problem. hope this helps some of you.
10-16-2005, 10:10 PM
#40
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 100
Just finished up the mod on the fiance's car. Shifting just feels so much better now. I had a b*tch of a time finding an elevator bolt with as large and flat of a top as the one you used. I ended up using one with a smaller top. Seems to work fine though.
Thanks for the idea.
Thanks for the idea.