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LED Swap (07 HVAC w/Circuit Mod)

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Old 12-22-2006 | 05:48 PM
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there's two different writeups... this is the '07's.. listing the 0805 sized...

so YES.
Old 01-14-2007 | 08:23 PM
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Edited it a bit to add some info here and there and fix a typo or two One main typo was the year models listed for this.. should have been 2007 for this writeup obviously.
Old 03-03-2007 | 05:46 AM
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bump to add a little heads up on the stock 07 HVAC issues. See bold text in the write up on page 1.

Also, if a mod sees this *hint hint * it may be a good idea to change the title of the link to my other write up to 05-06 HVAC LED Swap and this one to 07 HVAC LED Swap in the tech section. Right now, if someone did not notice the 07 one, they may be confused by the other title, which seems to infer it applies to all models. This was originally because I wrote it in 05, but now that there are two I think they should be changed.

Thanks
Dave
Old 03-03-2007 | 05:48 AM
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check! done!
Old 03-03-2007 | 05:54 AM
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Good man! I figured you were out there lurking somewhere
Old 03-03-2007 | 05:56 AM
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:D no problem.. did wonder why it wasn't done before... *shrugs*
Old 03-21-2007 | 08:13 PM
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So what's the word on doing this mod... I wanted to do that back in October but there wasn't a clear write up back then. Now theirs issues?

How many people have had their HVAC boards smoke/smell? Is it enough that I shouldn't attempt this?
Old 03-21-2007 | 09:25 PM
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The failures are not related to the mod. They are an issue with the 07 boards. I have heard of LOT of them already failing with nothing done to them. Honestly I would expect a recall if it keeps going like this.

The mod itself though is the same between the 07 and the rest. The difference is in the component placing and package size. I created the mod for the 05 back in 05 and have done tons of those. I updated for the 07 mod not too long after they came out. There wasnt as nice of a write up for it until later though.

The risk you run if you mod it is that if it does have issues like mentioned here, then the dealership is more likely to blame it on you for modding it. Obviously, I like the business, but I personally would reccomend waiting it out to see if they fix the issue with the stock boards before doing anything to them. That is kind of shooting myself in the foot as far as doing the mods, but I would rather reccomend what is best for the car owner rather than my wallet But, there is also a chance that if you have had it for a while with no issue, you wont ever have the issue and will be ok. So it really is up to you and what you are willing to risk.
Old 03-23-2007 | 02:03 AM
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Ebay has them if you mess yours up like I did
I got my replacement for $40 shipped the dealer wanted $700 for it!
Old 03-23-2007 | 11:26 PM
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Im wanting to do this mod myself. One of you guys said that you offer the kit which includes everything i need including instructions. Somebody PM me and we can arrange something.
Old 07-16-2007 | 08:08 PM
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I went to my local electronic store and also Fry's electronic but they only have either +8V 1A or +12V 1A. I bought the +12V 1A one. Would this be ok or does it have to be exactly +10V 1.2A ??

Also, I think it looks rather big
Old 07-16-2007 | 08:40 PM
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You will have to re-calc the resistor values if you use a 12V regulator. And they probably dont carry the same package design as the one needed for our board. I carry all the parts for these in bulk if you need. Either that or you can order from digikey, but then you have to pay a $5 minimum order charge for a $2 part
Old 07-16-2007 | 10:16 PM
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Another question, why is the ground leg cut off ? How can the voltage regulator works with the ground cut off like that ?
Old 07-16-2007 | 10:21 PM
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The heat sink is also connected to ground. That serves as the ground most times.
Old 07-20-2007 | 02:58 PM
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e. R307? (Clock): 1206 package 130 Ohm SMT resistor
h. R307: 1206 package 680 Ohm SMT resistor

engifineer, in your original post, you said to replace R307 twice. So what does that mean ? Which value should R307 be ?

Also, I pm you about buying the voltage regulator, did you not get it ?

thx
Old 07-20-2007 | 04:43 PM
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WARNING: be careful with the LCD Screen.

I had to buy the whole HVAC from a salvage yard for $75 just to get the LCD screen.
Old 07-20-2007 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by V0RT3X
e. R307? (Clock): 1206 package 130 Ohm SMT resistor
h. R307: 1206 package 680 Ohm SMT resistor

engifineer, in your original post, you said to replace R307 twice. So what does that mean ? Which value should R307 be ?
edited for typo.

R301 should be the one for the clock and should be the one that is the 130 ohm.
Old 07-20-2007 | 08:30 PM
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Sorry about the typo! Also Vortex, I had messaged you back (or thought I did at least). I will resend.... sorry about that!
Old 07-20-2007 | 08:39 PM
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Ahh, no wonder the lcd screen looks a bit dark. No problem

As far as for the voltage regulator, I used the +12V I bought at the store and it seems to work fine. It was a lot bigger than the stock one and cover up the soldering pad for the heat sink so i had to solder a wire running from the heat sink to the solder pad, the voltage regulator now sit slightly above the board. Of course I also used slightly higher ohm resisters. But I will still buy 2 from you for future use
Old 07-20-2007 | 08:49 PM
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For a 12V regulator, you should have used approximately 4 times the resistance to prevent leds from dying early in life. So around 160 ohms for the buttons, and 500 or so for the clock. If you didnt go this high I would reccomend using one of the new regulators I am getting ready to send you. I can send you the whole thing (regulator plus resistors) for 7 bucks per, so the price is pretty insignificant.



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