I don't know, but I don't think so. maybe at an auto parts store, or even from your dealer, I suppose.

You attach the lights under the dash with the rivet gun.

For the lights - one hole for the switch plate, two for the cupholder lights, four for the mounting of the light tubes.
For the subwoofer - none, really, but you need to make a hole in the carpeting to put the bolt through. Also, if you want to wire a switch like mine, you need to drill a hole in the switch plate.

Yes, that's a step bit. Mine goes from 3/16" to 7/8".

 

Ah... a switch to turn the sub on and off. I think that's a good plan. I doubt I'm going to do the lights, so I guess that simplifies things. Maybe I'll ask my dealer about the vinyl tool, or shop around or something. As for switches, is Radio Shack the place? It would be nice if I could find a really cool or nice looking switch - maybe even with a little LED on it or something?

 

I got mine at Radio Shack, but I didn't want anything fancy. They didn't have a great selection, but I didn't care. If I wanted something special I would have looked online.

 

Can you please just do a write up tutorial of just the Interior Light Install please?? I'd very much appreciate it.

 

In reading this it does not appear to me that you have to make a separate power connection from the sub into the engine compartment. I am correct that that power for the sub is coming through the harness to the head unit?

 

You are correct. The stock speaker harness unpluggs from the deck and plugs into the sub harness, which then plugs into the deck. It's a daisy-chain type arrangement and all the power flows through that.

 

Thank you very much for the reply. That makes it handy for me to do then

 

good write up. 1 question on the sub. I did notice any from the pictures but are there any kind of amp adjustment on the sub. I know it has the gain adjustment on the front. Like adjusting the crossover or anything?

 

Nope - the only adjustment for the sub/amp (on the unit itself) is the gain ****. It could really use a crossover, but you can make do with the gain and the adjustments on the head unit.

 

that was a great how too but i was wondering what the best place to hook the remote wire to would be if you didnt want to use the switch

 

If you didn't want to use the switch, you don't do anything. The remote wire is part of the sub harness. The stock head unit harness daisy-chains into the sub harness, which plugs into the deck. If you're not adding a switch, you don't have to do anything.

 

thanks for the answer to that question i appreciate it

 

how deep is the box, im looking at putting in a soundstream 500 watt sub, but its magnet is 6 1/8in. deep

 

how does the sub sound?? Does it just make up for the lost base or can you feel the sub when its turned up?

 

If anything, the sub is almost too powerful. It definitely overpowers the mid section of the stock stereo - bumps pretty good. Only for hiphop could you use possibly deal with more. Sounds good for electronic and is usually more than enough for more rock-type stuff.

As for the depth, I doubt you could fit something that deep in it - it would be stupid to buy it for that since you're paying for the amp in there too.

 

Great install tips. In your pictures of the back of the head unit, you mentioned the connector on the right side is the one for the sub. Is it the right side as you are looking at the picture (next to the antenna)? or is it the right side as if you are sitting in the car ? . I am trying to locate a wire kit for an aftermarket sub and amp.
Any help would be great.

Thanks,

 

No, it doesn't. This I know for a fact.

 

Well... in a way it does, especially if you have the cargo mat. The board on the bottom in the back is hinged in two places. It partially covers one of them. To get it out, there is a little fold-and-slide action going on, but it's definitely doable. The sub isn't actually resting on the floor - it's like 3/4 of an inch up, so you can slide things in and out. Once you know how the clips work, you're fine,.

 

yeah, but that beats doing what is on that paper they give you at the dealer about taking the box out to access the spare tire. when i saw that i was in disbelief.

 

Yeah... if you've installed the sub, you know how ridiculous that would be. In order to take the box out you have to pop the cover off (which is hard in and of itself), unscrew and disconnect the actual woofer, undo two bolts that are REALLY hard to tighten unless you're a contortionist, pull the box out, and disconnect the cable harness. I'm really glad you can just move the mat out. If you had to do all that, I don't think I'd like the sub nearly as much, even though I've only had one flat in my life.