Hey, on the wiring harness for the sub. There is like a blue wire that says "power option 1" and a red one that says "power option 2". Anybody know what each one does?

 

cool info bro

 

I just did the install over the weekend. Took a little time but it was worth it.

One question though (was asked before)...the 2 blue "Remote Option" suppose to connect...what does the RED one do?

Thanks

 

Thats the same question i was trying to figure out, never did. I have a different sub now though so i can't help you here. I would still be interested to know what it is for though.

 

Here's what Derek from Bazooka replied...

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That harness works for a couple of different cars.

Some cars, like the Scions, have a remote turn on lead coming out of the head unit.

Some cars, like the Corrolla, RAV4, and Highlander, don't.

If it's available, we use the head unit's signal to turn on the amplifier in the Subwoofer, by tapping into option 1, the blue wire. When it's not, we use option 2, the red wire, to turn the subwoofer on when the car's ignition is turned on.

Using a remote turn on scheme stops the subwoofer from being on all the time, which would drain the battery through parasitic draw. Also, turning it on and off with the Head Unit usually eliminates turn on and off pops, but it's not 100%.

The wire colors are CEA standard, meaning that the red wire is ignition controlled 12 volts, and the blue wire is power amplifier. Blue with white is usually antenna remote, which is only active when the tuner is on--not when a CD or tape is on--so the red wire is still a viable option in those vehicles.

 

Question regarding wiring the switch..

What gauge/type of wire do you use to lengthen the blue/white power wire?
What type of connector do you use at both ends?

Help appreciated- I just tried with something which is obviously the wrong gauge/kind of wire, and was scared i'd killed it, until I managed to mangle the wire i cut back to itself with electrical tape.

 

The gauge of wire doesn't matter, it's not carrying much power anyway. Sounds like you might have had the switch wired wrong? You can use whatever kind of connectors you want. Crimp "butt" connectors are the most common for connecting wires to each other, then on the other end use whatever kind of connectors the switch uses. You should be able to find all this at an auto parts store. If you still have trouble, maybe find a friend that has more experience withe auto electrical stuff or installing stereos. Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

^^ thanks for the response. I did some guessing and discovered that the wire is 18 gauge stranded, so I got some of the same kind of wire to lengthen it as well as some crimp plug connectors- now its working like a charm.

 

question about the lighting... how did you wire them? did you just tap into the 12v or did you wire it from a separate fuse?

 

One day, maybe, definitely needs some speaker upgrades. (bump-I.O.W)

 

Here are the installation instructions for the lights. If I recall correctly, it taps into the cigarette lighter line. You can see that step on page 8. Since they're all LEDs they don't draw a lot of current so a separate fuse is probably overkill.

 

yeah i figured as much. they aren't LEDs, they are neon tubes and the wire for those have a box in it but i dont know what it does. i use the cigarette lighter for my radar detector and cell charger and i dont want to overload the fuse for that.

 

^Sorry, I thought you were referring to the factory light kit which is all LEDs. You could always wire the neons to the light inside the storage area in front of the shifter. That way they'd be on whenever your dash lights are on.

 

i am looking to install the factory sub with an aftermarket radio which has a preamp RCA output. will i need an adapter or wiring harness to connect the sub to the RCA preamp? if so it would be helpful if sum1 could let me know what type. thanks...

 

Sweet INFO!

 

good job, i'm not going to do this but good job :-)

 

this was such a helpful post but im still wondering where to put my amp if i were to install my sub as you did yours

 

dont get a bazooka... please... it cannot be very cost efficient. and only a couple inches up from the factory sub anyways? once again please don't do this...

if you get a sub save up and do it right

Alpine R 12" best bang for the buck and the second best 12" made today IMO
-retail: $230 each alone -ebay: plenty of factory sealed sellers for $120 shipped

Alpine/Pioneer Amp rated at 500 watts, great units (forget the model names) superior quality, easily bought between $80-$180

sealed (no ported please) box $30-$100 max, for a 10" sub, jigsaw it to fit a 12" or just get a 12" which can still be done easily between $60-$120

total = roughly $220-$300 easily done all brand new parts

custom fit bazooka sub = $264 on the site you listed.

Bazookas are okay but i don't think the sound can compare to even a rockford fosgate much less an Alpine or Audiobauhn


btw, the LEDs... $120 (retail $150)??? wow ... www.oznium.com and relish in the prices.

i'm not a sales rep i'm just someone who does product quality research.

EDIT: fixed prices

 

nice write up.

 

Anyone know how to wire the OEM bazooka sub to an aftermarket H/U??

I have the Kenwood DDX-512.